Best trident maple technique

[leatherback]

Need some swarm help..

Been trolling trawling the forum and only find problems, and not really clear solutions (Besides grafting rooted cuttings / seedling) for producing roots, reliably, on trident maple airlayers.
Most tridents I try to airlayer struggle to root, and create callus. I now have one where the callus is a great 10cm/4inches across, on a branch of only maybe 3cm / 1 inch..

So.. I now have a sacrifice of about 7-8cm, 3 inches thick. This size takes some 5 growing seasons to develop from seed in my climate, so I would rather layer it off, than toss it. I do not like the thought of 2 years waiting for the thing to root tough.

So// Please share your way to layer tridents that create root reliably for you!

 

[Jrmcmich]

I have only tried once for a trident and didn’t have an issue. Used powder rooting hormone and possibly cut more of trunk away than needed. Much smaller layer than you’re looking to do. I have had same success on other tree types with same technique except a twombleys Japanese maple (not sure spelling) but a red variety. I wrapped spagnum moss with plastic and poked holes to allow to drain. I kept Moist by watering tree and air layer when needed. Took maybe 8 weeks. This was done last year and tree appears strong this year.

 

[MrBonsai19]

I tried one this season and have had a lot of struggles with it. The tree healed over the girdle after 3 weeks. I re-girdled the area and went in with a nibbler bit to remove even more material to make sure there was no cambium intact. I have been watching it since then and no sign of roots yet. I am worried it will not root this season. But at this point there's no choice but to keep it going as I am victim of sunk cost fallacy and don't want to give up on the project even though it would be better for me if I could separate the top and let the main part of the tree continue with development.

I am going to try DMSO+ high concentration rooting powder next year if necessary. DMSO is a solvent that helps the rooting powders get absorbed through the bark into the tissue of the tree above the girdled site.

I am curious if others share any techniques to accelerate the rooting process but I think there's a fair bit of anecdotal evidence to suggest this is not the easiest species to air layer.

First attempt to girdle on June 12:



June 26th - girdle was healed over:



Re-girdled and fresh hormone gel




Two months later - still no sign of roots in the bag... maybe I should check it again

 

[Canada Bonsai]

Most tridents I try to airlayer struggle to root

I have found Trident Maples far less reliable than Japanese Maples (e.g. Shishigashira or Arakawa).

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

Anyone tried girdling for a season before air layering?
It seems to work okay for my plants.

 

[Shibui]

I'm surprised to hear of problems layering trident. They seem to love to produce roots. If I plant a trunk a little too deep in the grow beds or too deep in a pot there's almost always new roots growing at ground level by the following winter and that's without removing any bark.
Regular air layers have almost all rooted without any special help - just remove a ring of bark, apply hormone and wrap in sphagnum and plastic wrap. I usually start layers after leaves open. Some tries on JM before bud burst died before producing roots so it seem more successful to layer after the first flush of initial growth.

 

[eplov90]

@leatherback I know you engaged in my thread about Mark Moreland's method for striking large cuttings with the bottle. I have found Tridents to be fantastic in that set up -- they root really really quickly. If I were in your shoes, I would be tempted to just cut it off, treat it as a major cutting, and hope that separation forces it to move on from callous to roots.

That does depend on your tolerance for risk though.

 

[SeanS]

Watching!

Have had zero luck layering tridents.
Yet growing them through washers/metal plates in the ground works perfectly every time! Loads of roots! Granted these have all been with seedlings.
More mature sections (branches/trunks) I’m useless!

 

[leatherback]

Somehow it makes me feel better seeing the responses so far. It seems to be a thing many have. @Shibui maybe your temps are higher?

Anyone tried girdling for a season before air layering?

You mean, remove the bark, leave open for a period of time, and then pot up?

 

[WNC Bonsai]

Somehow it makes me feel better seeing the responses so far. It seems to be a thing many have. @Shibui maybe your temps are higher?


You mean, remove the bark, leave open for a period of time, and then pot up?

Climate/weather can be a big factor. This summer has been cool here, only one day above 90F and August has been abnormally cool. Right now we are in a pattern of days with temps in the low to mid 70s, this in August which is typically in the 80-90s. Consequently my JBP have produced buds after candle pruning around June 1 but those buds have barely extended. My sekka hinoki cuttings are just sitting there with no signs of rooting, and my trident in a pot hasn’t done anything since I did a partial defoliation in mid-June. Of course genetics and how often you talk to them may also play a role!

 

[River's Edge]

Need some swarm help..

Been trolling trawling the forum and only find problems, and not really clear solutions (Besides grafting rooted cuttings / seedling) for producing roots, reliably, on trident maple airlayers.
Most tridents I try to airlayer struggle to root, and create callus. I now have one where the callus is a great 10cm/4inches across, on a branch of only maybe 3cm / 1 inch..

So.. I now have a sacrifice of about 7-8cm, 3 inches thick. This size takes some 5 growing seasons to develop from seed in my climate, so I would rather layer it off, than toss it. I do not like the thought of 2 years waiting for the thing to root tough.

So// Please share your way to layer tridents that create root reliably for you!

Girdling refers to using a wire tourniquet to close off the flow from the leaves above the tourniquet to the roots. Causing a swelling and build up to promote root growth in the desired area.
The air layering method I would suggest is basically Old School. Trident is less reliable particularly older material so pre-conditioning is important.
!. Bring the health of the tree up with extra care and fertilization the year prior to attempting the air layer.
2. apply a tourniquet to the site during that previous year to begin the process.
3. for best results plan to execute the cut straight across when debarking the selected area.
4. The section removed should be 1 1/2 times the distance of the diameter to be air layer. So 3 inch trunk, cut a section of bark off 4 1/2 inches
5. carefully scrape the surface free of cambium after removing the bark.
6. Score the cut edge unevenly with sharp instrument, clean saw edge for example. This improves the chances of root formation with extra surface area on the cut edge. ( Masakuni technique )
7 Use rooting hormone on the cut edge. If gel apply and let dry for several hours before applying the air layer media and wrap or container. If powder let sit on the edge for an hour as well . You want to ensure the cells on the edge take in the rooting hormone before it is diluted from applying the wet rooting medium.
8. I then apply a wire tourniquet just below the cut edge.
9. For air layering media I prefer medium particle size pumice combined with shredded spaghnum moss. roughly a 1:1 ration. The pumice helps to retain space for roots and air, plus I find it easier to transplant the air layerr without damaging the roots when the air layer is separated.
10. I tend to use larger wrap, more medias with trident to ensure lots of space and uniform moisture retention.
11. My wraps / container always provide drainage/ aeration. ( the bottoms are not lightly wrapped will seep out excess moisture. no pooling.
12 Top of the wrap is usually tighter closure to prevent desiccation.
13. I maintain moisture levels with a syringe when using plastic wrap and through a makeshift lid when using container. One can also use sphagnum on top to prevent desiccation from containers. All methods require monitoring. I do not rely on the root stock to maintain moisture levels in the air layer itself at all times.
I think I included each step, fire away with a question if my rambling is unclear to you.
Example posted below of mature maple with older branch being removed for style improvement. I chose to air layer to provide the same genetic material for future grafting and a secondary tree if successful.

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

Somehow it makes me feel better seeing the responses so far. It seems to be a thing many have. @Shibui maybe your temps are higher?


You mean, remove the bark, leave open for a period of time, and then pot up?

No removal, just a wire that you leave in place. The swelling it causes can help the plant accumulate cells around that area. So once you do remove the ring of bark, the callus-like tissue is already there and it just needs to differentiate into roots.
I've been doing it in junipers and it speeds up the process a whole lot.

 

[WNC Bonsai]

Girdling refers to using a wire tourniquet to close off the flow from the leaves above the tourniquet to the roots. Causing a swelling and build up to promote root growth in the desired area.
The air layering method I would suggest is basically Old School. Trident is less reliable particularly older material so pre-conditioning is important.
!. Bring the health of the tree up with extra care and fertilization the year prior to attempting the air layer.
2. apply a tourniquet to the site during that previous year to begin the process.
3. for best results plan to execute the cut straight across when debarking the selected area.
4. The section removed should be 1 1/2 times the distance of the diameter to be air layer. So 3 inch trunk, cut a section of bark off 4 1/2 inches
5. carefully scrape the surface free of cambium after removing the bark.
6. Score the cut edge unevenly with sharp instrument, clean saw edge for example. This improves the chances of root formation with extra surface area on the cut edge. ( Masakuni technique )
7 Use rooting hormone on the cut edge. If gel apply and let dry for several hours before applying the air layer media and wrap or container. If powder let sit on the edge for an hour as well . You want to ensure the cells on the edge take in the rooting hormone before it is diluted from applying the wet rooting medium.
8. I then apply a wire tourniquet just below the cut edge.
9. For air layering media I prefer medium particle size pumice combined with shredded spaghnum moss. roughly a 1:1 ration. The pumice helps to retain space for roots and air, plus I find it easier to transplant the air layerr without damaging the roots when the air layer is separated.
10. I tend to use larger wrap, more medias with trident to ensure lots of space and uniform moisture retention.
11. My wraps / container always provide drainage/ aeration. ( the bottoms are not lightly wrapped will seep out excess moisture. no pooling.
12 Top of the wrap is usually tighter closure to prevent desiccation.
13. I maintain moisture levels with a syringe when using plastic wrap and through a makeshift lid when using container. One can also use sphagnum on top to prevent desiccation from containers. All methods require monitoring. I do not rely on the root stock to maintain moisture levels in the air layer itself at all times.
I think I included each step, fire away with a question if my rambling is unclear to you.
Example posted below of mature maple with older branch being removed for style improvement. I chose to air layer to provide the same genetic material for future grafting and a secondary tree if successful.View attachment 612326

Why apply a tourniquet below the cut edge, there should be nothing there but dead wood? Is it to prevent bridging of the gap?

 

[River's Edge]

Why apply a tourniquet below the cut edge, there should be nothing there but dead wood? Is it to prevent bridging of the gap?

There should be but most of us are imperfect and it is an extra safeguard to bridging. It is not uncommon to miss a thread of cambium and have the air layer bridge quickly instead of send out roots. of course one can always redo it if that happens and the tree cooperates.

 

[River's Edge]

Sometimes the results speak for themselves. It is rewarding when it works out. This morning I separated the layer and can provide support for the detailed method that I suggested. Two pictures. One of each side after unwrapping the plastic and before beginning the process of preparing the air layer for the next stage. This air layer was started this spring, checked after eight weeks and then left for another month to ensure stronger roots upon separation. I will report the detailed steps in the thread I started for this tree. https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/trident-renovation-project.63710/post-1181770

 

[leatherback]

girdling

tourniquet

OK lets try this.

 

[leatherback]

I now have one where the callus is a great 10cm/4inches across, on a branch of only maybe 3cm / 1 inch..

this one, after third round of cutting the bottom of the callus..:

 

[leatherback]

about 7-8cm, 3 inches thick

This was with my MALE sapemeasure

 

[River's Edge]

Or one could try this. Thicker wire three wraps and twist over top. Then bend tab down. Important to place wire closely together to prevent bridging. In my experience ambium can easily grow over one width of wire.