Bonsai Irrigation

[b3bowen]

I suspect that there are others out there like me, who work, are just busy, or perhaps just vacation a lot for whom watering bonsai can be problematic. There are a lot of posts out there on using hose timers, and I think these are good for a short term trip. Over the last couple of years I have been working on an automated watering system for my collection.
For any of you who enjoy tinkering, I thought I would make a post on how my system is set up.

First, I created a valve system that would allow for 10 different zones. The valves are readily available on Amazon for five to $10 and are 12 V normally closed solenoids. These can all be hooked up to a mainline however you want using plumbing supplies/irrigation supplies from your normal big box store. From The valves to the plants, I use quarter inch hose.



Once The plumbing was set up, I had to move onto a controller. Initially, I tried to control the system with a micro controller that I programmed myself (with cellphone control), but Wi-Fi connectivity was limited and when. I lost Wi-Fi, problems would occur in the program so I decided I needed some thing more reliable. I settled on the bhyve Irrigation controller which has normal 12 V output And therefore do used to control the valves I already had.



All this fits into a nice pre-made irrigation box


Off to work,will post more later

 

[Maiden69]

How many trees are you watering out of each zone? That seems like an overkill system in the sense that you could use only one zone to water over 20 trees at the same time. I have one of those 4 zone hose end timers with up to 4 watering times per zone. Currently using 2 zones, one for deciduous and another for conifers. And I will be adding a third zone for misting. I think I have around 15 trees per zone right now, and they can all be regulated by changing the size of the spitters.

Going 1/4" straight out of the valve limits the volume of the flow of water, but if it works for you, that is all that matters.

 

[Colorado]

I suspect that there are others out there like me, who work, are just busy, or perhaps just vacation a lot for whom watering bonsai can be problematic. There are a lot of posts out there on using hose timers, and I think these are good for a short term trip. Over the last couple of years I have been working on an automated watering system for my collection.
For any of you who enjoy tinkering, I thought I would make a post on how my system is set up.

First, I created a valve system that would allow for 10 different zones. The valves are readily available on Amazon for five to $10 and are 12 V normally closed solenoids. These can all be hooked up to a mainline however you want using plumbing supplies/irrigation supplies from your normal big box store. From The valves to the plants, I use quarter inch hose.

View attachment 441886

Once The plumbing was set up, I had to move onto a controller. Initially, I tried to control the system with a micro controller that I programmed myself (with cellphone control), but Wi-Fi connectivity was limited and when. I lost Wi-Fi, problems would occur in the program so I decided I needed some thing more reliable. I settled on the bhyve Irrigation controller which has normal 12 V output And therefore do used to control the valves I already had.

View attachment 441896

All this fits into a nice pre-made irrigation box
View attachment 441887

Off to work,will post more later

Nice, automated system is crucial IMO. Are you doing drip or sprayers?

 

[b3bowen]

So this is the garden that I’m watering. Or at least half of it. Most of my trees are in wooden Grow boxes for now, and I use sprayers instead of drip irrigation, because I feel like I can get all the soil evenly moist a little better. I have about three or four trees on each zone.



Trees are placed based on how much sunlight they need and I made sure to try and match water requirements of each tree that is on the same zone.

Next, I picked a series of sunny days that were moderately hot and timed the trees in each zone to see how long it took them to dry out. I found that my trees could be divided into groups of zones which needed to be watered either every 1 1/2, two, or three days. So, I set up a timer to do just that.



Using this device, if I want to water manually it’s easy enough to do with my phone with pictures of the trees that I am watering.



The other two things I really like about using the system over normal hose timers is that with the push of a button I can set a 24 hour or more rain delay. when I am away I can monitor to make sure that the zones were watered.

 

[b3bowen]

So now, instead of watering regularly, I am monitoring to see whether any one zone needs to be in a different grouping Such as being watered every two days instead of three for example. Now as far as whether or not I truly need to control 10 zones for this, I’m sure you could do it with less, however in order to control more than Four emitters I have to bury and run off of a 1/2 inch pipe instead of 1/4 inch. But I have some full sun trees that need watering at the same frequency as some smaller more shaded plants. It would be harder to run my lines without as many zones.

 

[penumbra]

Your system is overly complex for me. Plus I have several seedlings and up-pots that need to be regulated on a basis that changes within days.
Your garden is lovely. I really love the cedars.

 

[Frozentreehugger]

I find this thread interesting ax I’m at the thinking for the future . What system best suits my needs have to admit a little of everything here makes sense . The hose and timer system offers simplicity . But I do like the more complex system or at least the valve box I see myself with a hybrid system in my yard I often use more portable benches . Kind of chase the sun around depending on time of year . Anyway wondering if anybody has experience with the emitters in the pics. There called scrubbers or low flow emmiters or bubble heads . Seem ideal for bonsai. They spray out of 8 ports can be adjusted to cover a couple feet area but are most often adjusted down to saturate a small area with a fair amount of water they claim there a mainstay in the nursery trade and ideal for pot culture also I see larger ports less likely to clog or at least fail completely ie 8 ports if even several clog there will be some water flow

 

[Paradox]

I also feel your system is overly complicated for no reason but to each his own.
I have my trees on the old fashioned lawn sprinkler and hose with a battery operated timer.

I have 2 zones with two separate timers. One with my deciduous and one with my conifers. I am putting my azaleas on a separate bench that is fed by the same timer as the D trees but not under the sprinkler only because they dont like to have their foliage wet that much so they will get spray emitters in their pots.

I find the frequency of watering changes with the season not so much with the zone. The beginning of the season when it is still cool, I water every other day but once it gets warmer, I water every day. The D tree zone gets water for 15 minutes and the conifers for 20 only because the area covered by the sprinkler is much larger than the bench with the D trees so needs more time for enough water to be delivered. On really hot days greater than 90 degrees, I check them at night after I get home from work and will give them another 10 minute shower if they need it.

 

[Frozentreehugger]

I also feel your system is overly complicated for no reason but to each his own.
I have my trees on the old fashioned lawn sprinkler and hose with a battery operated timer.

I have 2 zones with two separate timers. One with my deciduous and one with my conifers. I am putting my azaleas on a separate bench that is fed by the same timer as the D trees but not under the sprinkler only because they dont like to have their foliage wet that much so they will get spray emitters in their pots.

I find the frequency of watering changes with the season not so much with the zone. The beginning of the season when it is still cool, I water every other day but once it gets warmer, I water every day. The D tree zone gets water for 15 minutes and the conifers for 20 only because the area covered by the sprinkler is much larger than the bench with the D trees so needs more time for enough water to be delivered. On really hot days greater than 90 degrees, I check them at night after I get home from work and will give them another 10 minute shower if they need it.

I’m all for simplicity but very surprised you can make that work . What kind of sprinkler are you referring Fan spray area coverage back and forth sprinkler or oscillation sprayer like a golf course . Any body I have seen try that is forever moving trees . For example they turn the tree for different sun angle and now the foliage blocks the water or do you just flood it enough it all had to be watered . Just can’t get my head around one sprinkler source all pots in a area properly saturated like I said love the simplicity please share how you make that work

 

[Paradox]

I’m all for simplicity but very surprised you can make that work . What kind of sprinkler are you referring Fan spray area coverage back and forth sprinkler or oscillation sprayer like a golf course . Any body I have seen try that is forever moving trees . For example they turn the tree for different sun angle and now the foliage blocks the water or do you just flood it enough it all had to be watered . Just can’t get my head around one sprinkler source all pots in a area properly saturated like I said love the simplicity please share how you make that work

This is the sprinkler I use (orbit oscellating)

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Orbit-Max-Max-4000-sq-ft-Oscillating-Sled-Lawn-Sprinkler/1000063185

I place the sprinkler on the bench among the trees and I put shorter trees, plants right next to it so that the stream of water doesnt hit/get blocked by the foliage.
I am able to rotate the trees just fine with no problems with the foliage blocking the water. I cant get pictures of the placement atm because its dark outside but I can if you need to see it. I think the reason I dont have the issues you mention is because I place the trees that are big enough to block the stream further away so they dont do that and with this sprinkler, the bar is not curved like some are so the angle is not as great for the streams of water. However each emitter is angled to some degree to direct the water to cover the area the sprinkler is meant to cover.

The zone for my deciduous trees is one long bench so the sprinkler oscillation range is very short. For my juniper and pines, its a wider area so it oscillates more.

I have been using this set up for at least 5 years with no problems as long as the sprinkler itself was working. By that I mean that the batteries are still fresh and the sprinkler mechanism itself working properly - they do wear out/get clogged eventually. I typically get 2-3 years out of a sprinkler and I just replaced one of my original timers after 5 years. It doesnt matter what kind of system it is. You do need to check it regularly to make sure its all working properly.

 

[Frozentreehugger]

This is the sprinkler I use (orbit oscellating)

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Orbit-Max-Max-4000-sq-ft-Oscillating-Sled-Lawn-Sprinkler/1000063185

I place the sprinkler on the bench among the trees and I put shorter trees, plants right next to it so that the stream of water doesnt hit/get blocked by the foliage.
I am able to rotate the trees just fine with no problems with the foliage blocking the water. I cant get pictures of the placement atm because its dark outside but I can if you need to see it. I think the reason I dont have the issues you mention is because I place the trees that are big enough to block the stream further away so they dont do that and with this sprinkler, the bar is not curved like some are so the angle is not as great for the streams of water. However each emitter is angled to some degree to direct the water to cover the area the sprinkler is meant to cover.

The zone for my deciduous trees is one long bench so the sprinkler oscillation range is very short. For my juniper and pines, its a wider area so it oscillates more.

I have been using this set up for at least 5 years with no problems as long as the sprinkler itself was working. By that I mean that the batteries are still fresh and the sprinkler mechanism itself working properly - they do wear out/get clogged eventually. I typically get 2-3 years out of a sprinkler and I just replaced one of my original timers after 5 years. It doesnt matter what kind of system it is. You do need to check it regularly to make sure its all working properly.

Makes sense thanks for the info What I’m planning is somewhat . Because I live in a non bonsai friendly place . Long story is house several large trees and un attached garage are crowded on south facing of my property . Plus I’m in the north . End result iAd I said I’m forever chasing the sun especially the full sun So about 1/2 my benches are portable tables I can move around . So I’m thinking valve control box at wall garden hoses to each table but after what you say maybe one or 2 water outlet of some kind at each table instead of micro emitters for each pot

 

[Hack Yeah!]

Nice setup! This is exactly how my landscape irrigation is set up but I've not considered it for my bonsai. I think it would be a worthwhile project. Thanks for sharing.

Currently I run one timer with a 4 way splitter. My zones are separated by light requirements and each split water pressure is adjusted to water more or less.

 

[Maiden69]

Anyway wondering if anybody has experience with the emitters in the pics

Those are crap. I have 2 in use right now and I use them to fill the water tub my bald cypresses are in.

Here, have fun making up a system with this. More control when it comes to how much water you use, easier to set up and cheaper than almost everything out there. I use mostly the downspray and the spot spitter shorts. Also, the Primerus system simplify everything. All you need is a 1/2 poly line from your valve and 1/8" tubing to branch out the spitters. No need for 1/4 line or plugs to connect the 1/4" to the 1/2" line.

https://www.dripdepot.com/search?q=primerus

 

[Frozentreehugger]

Those are crap. I have 2 in use right now and I use them to fill the water tub my bald cypresses are in.

Here, have fun making up a system with this. More control when it comes to how much water you use, easier to set up and cheaper than almost everything out there. I use mostly the downspray and the spot spitter shorts. Also, the Primerus system simplify everything. All you need is a 1/2 poly line from your valve and 1/8" tubing to branch out the spitters. No need for 1/4 line or plugs to connect the 1/4" to the 1/2" line.

https://www.dripdepot.com/search?q=primerus

Thanks exactly what I was looking for like the spot spitter nice and simple no moving parts the small town I live in has sediment in the water problems from time to time . I have a quality filtration system as it enters the house . But some still gets thru . So clogging and how to clean the system is something I have to be concerned with

 

[Maiden69]

Thanks exactly what I was looking for like the spot spitter nice and simple no moving parts the small town I live in has sediment in the water problems from time to time . I have a quality filtration system as it enters the house . But some still gets thru . So clogging and how to clean the system is something I have to be concerned with

You can set a "small" 5 micron sediment filter before the valve if you have that much problem with it. I bought Pentek 20" big blue filter for my deionizer system for washing cars, the 10" case with a 5 micron sediment filter should remove most (not all) sediments giving you a little peace of mind. I don't have that problem so I only have a small mesh filter before the valves to prevent bigger sediment from locking the valve open. I do check the spitters every once in a while to make sure they are not getting clogged up.

One addition I did this year was adding DIG Vacuum relief valves to both zones, they allow the zones to get full of water quicker instead of waiting for the air to escape through the spitters, and also allows for air to enter the line after the system is shut off, which I think prevents debris from entering the line through the spitters.

 

[Frozentreehugger]

You can set a "small" 5 micron sediment filter before the valve if you have that much problem with it. I bought Pentek 20" big blue filter for my deionizer system for washing cars, the 10" case with a 5 micron sediment filter should remove most (not all) sediments giving you a little peace of mind. I don't have that problem so I only have a small mesh filter before the valves to prevent bigger sediment from locking the valve open. I do check the spitters every once in a while to make sure they are not getting clogged up.

One addition I did this year was adding DIG Vacuum relief valves to both zones, they allow the zones to get full of water quicker instead of waiting for the air to escape through the spitters, and also allows for air to enter the line after the system is shut off, which I think prevents debris from entering the line through the spitters.

Thanks great atuff

 

[Frozentreehugger]

Friend of mine Inclosed his deck with a bug tent which is almost a necessity by mis summer here . But it eliminates any breeze . So he installed a micro irrigation system with misters in the roof There 10 feet from the deck surface . You don’t feel moisture but the cooling effect is very noticeable

 

[b3bowen]

This system is still running well. As an update for any one running micro emitters I would strongly suggest placing two as below. Nearly lost a nice beech last year when an emmiter got clogged. I have a micro filter on mine, but still it malfunctioned. Placing two allows you to see if one stops working before the whole tree doesn’t get watered.

 

[Paradox]

Those are crap. I have 2 in use right now and I use them to fill the water tub my bald cypresses are in.

Here, have fun making up a system with this. More control when it comes to how much water you use, easier to set up and cheaper than almost everything out there. I use mostly the downspray and the spot spitter shorts. Also, the Primerus system simplify everything. All you need is a 1/2 poly line from your valve and 1/8" tubing to branch out the spitters. No need for 1/4 line or plugs to connect the 1/4" to the 1/2" line.

https://www.dripdepot.com/search?q=primerus

I wish I had seen this before!
I have been thinking of converting my overhead sprinklers to a drip type system to conserve water and these seem like they would be perfect.
Different size delivery emitters for different sized pots and pretty much clog proof.
I am going to try this system.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

I changed up my system a little this time around. I may end up regretting it if the benches don’t hold up or if I have to move something, but I was going for more targeted and not visually intrusive. These are the micro emitters I used and had them installed along the backs and sides of the benches. So far, they are great.

Micro Sprays | Hunter Industries

Solo-Drip The Solo-Drip Micro Spray provides eight streams of close-in coverage that apply water exactly where it’s needed. Featuring fingertip cap control for flow and throw adjustment, Solo-Drip provides efficient, reliable close-in and adjustable coverage. Halo-Spray

www.hunterindustries.com

in action: