Bursera | General Info & Bonsai Cultivation

[Kurt Dillow]

Hello all,

I am starting this thread in the event anyone has any questions about the Bursera species as it relates to Bonsai cultivation. Obviously, Bursera are a novel species to many outside of the American Southwest and Mexico, so I imagine there are lots of questions. Sadly there are very few books on the topic of Bursera, let alone Bursera in Bonsai cultivation, but I have a few titles I can share. The rest of the available information in circulation is usually found in scholarly papers and university publications (shortform articles).​

1. Elephant Trees, Copales, and Cuajiotes | A Natural History of Bursera by Judith Becerra & David Yetman
2. Pachyforms | Volume II | Bonsai Succulents by Philippe de Vosjoli & Rudy Lime
3. Pachyforms | Volume I | A Guide to Growing Pachucaul & Caudicform Plants by Philippe de Vosjoli

I have been working with Bursera, specifically Bursera fagaroides, since 2007 in Bonsai culture. The tree in the attached photos is my largest specimen that my wife lovingly named Gordita many years ago. I acquired this specimen from an exotic plant dealer out of Florida in 2007. The tree is a Yamadori that was most likely collected in Northern Mexico (specific location was not disclosed to me) in the late 1990’s to early 2000’s. When I acquired it, the tree was bareroot and cut-back very hard (nearly no secondary structure). So, a lot of time and effort was spent building back the root system while developing out the entire canopy from scratch. I will add a second post to this thread showing the progression photos of the tree.​

I currently care for 5 larger specimens, a pile of medium ones and probably 280 seedlings of various sizes. All of my mature specimens produce seed every year so I have the opportunity to try lots of experiments in propagation.

Brief Species Description:

Bursera fagaroides are native to the deserts of the American Southwest as well as Mexico. It is a member of the Burseraceae family which is home to the historically famous frankincense and myrrh trees. The Bursera is a caudiciform shrub/small tree that is drought deciduous in its natural habitat. The trees are famous (amongst caudiform nerds) for their thick short trunks with white papery peeling bark and its resinous secretions that have a strong fragrant citrus-like odor. Their common names in North America are: Fragrant Bursera, Torchwood Copal and Elephant Bush. They are a sacred tree to the native/Indigenous populations in Mexico and the American Southwest as well as a keystone species for many insects (honey bees) and migratory birds.​

Basic Care Info:

1. Light: Full southern sun exposure throughout the growing season. The more sun the better. Under grow lights in the winter.
2. Temp: 50°F is the coldest you should allow the tree to experience (in a container). They can handle light frost when planted in the ground. They are really happy and grow profusely from 80°F - 115°F. Obviously freezing temps are to be completely avoided.
3. Watering: During growing season, allow soil to dry out 1/4-1/2 down container wall then water deeply. It is not uncommon to water 2-3 times a day in the peak of growing season. During winter rachet back the water a lot. Allow the tree to dry out a lot between waterings. The species goes through a harsh drought during winter months in the Northern hemisphere. At this time they drop leaves and go dormant. The are drought deciduous, but also respond to the reduced photoperiod.
4. Fertilization: Bursera respond really well to minimal inputs. For refined trees keep the ferts low (fish emulsion is what I like). For young trees that you are trying to pump up, regular synthetics like Osmocote and Miracle-Gro work great.
5. Soil: Aoki Blend, Clay King, or home-brew 1:1:1 (Akadama, Pumice, Lava) are all great options. I like between 1/8" -1/4" grain for most size Bursera. This soil mix makes it really hard to overwater them.

Let me know what else you all would like to know and I will try my best to answer. Hopefully this was of some help. Cheers!

 

[Kurt Dillow]

Here are the aforementioned progression photos.

2008


2012


2014


2019


2021


2023


2024


2025

 

[MHBonsai]

Fantastic information. Thank you for sharing!

 

[hemmy]

Great info! I saw this tree at the last Bonsai Central and it stopped me in my tracks.

What is your timing for repotting and aftercare? For large root cuts, do you let them dry before repotting? I’ve dusted other caudiciforms with sulfur after a root cut.

On propagation, is there a best time of year to strike cuttings?

I have a ~15yo Bursera microphylla from a nursery that is in need of repot. But I keep putting it off. Now that I think about it, I have a younger B. fagaroides that also needs repotting!

Thank you!

 

[Kurt Dillow]

Great info! I saw this tree at the last Bonsai Central and it stopped me in my tracks.

What is your timing for repotting and aftercare? For large root cuts, do you let them dry before repotting? I’ve dusted other caudiciforms with sulfur after a root cut.

On propagation, is there a best time of year to strike cuttings?

I have a ~15yo Bursera microphylla from a nursery that is in need of repot. But I keep putting it off. Now that I think about it, I have a younger B. fagaroides that also needs repotting!

Thank you!

1.) Timing on repotting: Usually spring just as I see buds starting to move. But they can be repotted year rounds as long as they are kept warm. Honestly February-June (northern hemisphere) is no problem at all. Again, just keep the roots warm.

2.) Aftercare post repotting: Pot into good free-draining soil. Place into full sun and allow to dry out between watering for the first week or two. Then resume standard watering schedule. Again, keep tree and roots warm.

3.) Large root cuts: I let them dry a day or so. I keep the cut site exposed to air and the rest of the root ball covered with a damp cloth. I also treat with systemic fungicides to protect against rot.

4.) Cutting Propagation: You can strike cutting year round, as long as you have grow lights and heat. The absolute best time is late spring through summer. The heat and sun really help them take off well.

Regarding your B. microphylla & fagaroides, you can easily repot them at this time of year. Just ensure you use good soil (Akadama, Pumice, Lava or some premix like Aoki). They love that mix and really stabilize fast in it. I hope that this was of some help. Cheers!

 

[Pachycaul]

Hey Kurt- good to see someone else is as smitten by Burseras as I am. The screenshot is a listing for a book from 2013. The author,Jason Eslamieh, was in Tucson but don't know if that info still holds. He self published this book, plus The Genus Commiphora, and another on Boswellia in the "teens. All 3 are still available, but pretty spendy. Pin-up quality photos and comprehensive text. Currently sowing seed from this B. fagaroides, which I have had for about 30 yrs. Got it from a nursery in Tucson when it was 8-10 yrs old at the time. Currently in a 10 inch pot.
That is a fine specimen you show. Tightly ramified and well shaped! From the sounds of it,
you have a serious case of pachycaulophiliac fever!

 

[Kurt Dillow]

Hey Kurt- good to see someone else is as smitten by Burseras as I am. The screenshot is a listing for a book from 2013. The author,Jason Eslamieh, was in Tucson but don't know if that info still holds. He self published this book, plus The Genus Commiphora, and another on Boswellia in the "teens. All 3 are still available, but pretty spendy. Pin-up quality photos and comprehensive text. Currently sowing seed from this B. fagaroides, which I have had for about 30 yrs. Got it from a nursery in Tucson when it was 8-10 yrs old at the time. Currently in a 10 inch pot.
That is a fine specimen you show. Tightly ramified and well shaped! From the sounds of it,
you have a serious case of pachycaulophiliac fever!

@Pachycaul, well, it looks like I need to part with some more money. I have a problem with nice books on esoteric plants. That is a great looking Bursera by the way. If you have more pics of your Bursera, please feel free to share them. My other pachycaul favorite is the Operculicarya decaryi. I have a pile of them as well. I only have one larger one though. I have been on the hunt for a large Operculicarya pachypus as well. Below is a photo of the larger one I own. Some day it will be ready for a show.

 

[hemmy]

My other pachycaul favorite is the Operculicarya decaryi. I have a pile of them as well. I only have one larger one though.

Wow, the movement! I wish I had put movement in my O. decaryi as a seedling ~12yo! That looks like the subject of another thread! Mine is male (I’ve read only 1 in 10 are female). I’d love to have a female to get seed. They take great from root cuttings, but I haven’t had luck with branch cuttings.

 

[hemmy]

B. microphylla, young plant from California Cactus Center about 12-13yo. More a “specimen” than bonsai. Really suffered in the garage under LED this winter. Very pot bound and nutrient deficient(?). I’d like to repot, but like it to be healthy first.

 

[Kurt Dillow]

Wow, the movement! I wish I had put movement in my O. decaryi as a seedling ~12yo! That looks like the subject of another thread! Mine is male (I’ve read only 1 in 10 are female). I’d love to have a female to get seed. They take great from root cuttings, but I haven’t had luck with branch cuttings.

@hemmy, yeah, I will need to start another thread on that species. Another rabbit hole with fun techniques. It is still a good time to repot. As long as you do not cut back the roots more than 40%, tease out old broken down soil, aerate the root ball with a chop-stick, and pot-up with a good free draining mix, you should be good. Just hold off on strong ferts and keep in medium sun for 1-2 weeks then you are clear to move to full sun. Up the ferts in about 2-4 weeks. There will be leaf drop from the repot, but that is normal (especially a stressed plant), so don't get alarmed. Let me know if you have any additional questions.

 

[hemmy]

the event anyone has any questions about the Bursera species as it relates to Bonsai cultivation.

Do you seal large branch cuts on the Bursera? I removed a 3/4” sacrifice branch on the B. fagaroides.

Thanks!

 

[Kurt Dillow]

Do you seal large branch cuts on the Bursera? I removed a 3/4” sacrifice branch on the B. fagaroides.

Thanks!

Short Answer: Yes.

Long Answer: 2 x different approaches, based on wound size.

1. Cuts 3/8" diameter and smaller, I use liquid cut-paste (with the hormones for accelerated wound closure). Very normal for most thin bark deciduous species in bonsai practice where minimizing scaring is critical.
2. Cuts larger than 3/8" diameter, I use a layered method. Because Bursera produce profuse amounts of resinous sap from wounds, using the traditional adhesive backed metal foil HVAC tape does not work well. The tape delaminates after a few rains and you are back square one. Additionally the thick clay-like cut-paste also delaminates due to the sap flow, so I came up with a 3 layer "bandage" solution. The first layer is the liquid cut paste. While still wet take slightly moist paper towel (slightly larger than the diameter of the wound) and press it into the wet cut-paste. Ensure the cut-paste bleeds through the paper towel. Allow to fully dry and then apply another layer of cut-paste to fully seal the paper towel. After that is done you are good to go. You can add another layer of cut-paste and take some of the exfoliated bark from another part of the tree and glue it over the bandage to hide it (purely aesthetic).

If done well, you can make a wound disappear. As the wound calluses over and closes, it will exfoliate the bandage like a scab. This may take some time on larger wounds. I have been able to close wounds 4" in diameter with this method while avoiding excessive sap loss, dieback expanding from the wound and protect from disease intrusion. Plus with the bark layer it looks pleasing while healing.

Below are some photos of a bunch of very large cuttings I just did 2 days ago (separated a mother into 7 cuttings). So you can see some of the steps of the wounds sealing process (sans the bark layer). Let me know if you need further elaboration on this process.

 

[hemmy]

Cool technique! I just applied the first layer, I even had the same cut paste. Thank you!

 

[Kurt Dillow]

Cool technique! I just applied the first layer, I even had the same cut paste. Thank you!

Very cool. I have been using that cut-paste for years with Bursera and they really respond well to it. I will use other pastes and methods with other species, but the aforementioned one has been really successful for me for about a decade now.