Thanks, so Daconil, is that similar to Neem oil and can it be sprayed after it is leafed out? I Did cut off affected leavesIf it's similar to quince rust you can find some detailed posts here. I'm talking about quince, so may want to double check that it's a similar treatment.
Long story short, for quince, if it were my tree I would cut off the impacted leaves. I would then likely either spray it with Cleary's or do a Daconil root drench. Someone in this thread said it took about three weeks to treat.
quince rust
before i take action - this is rust and must be removed and burned correct? this is a japanese quince which i know are prone to fungal issues. i was late in putting infuse on it, but it recently got that systemic on it as well as clearys on it a bit agowww.bonsainut.com
Thanks, so Daconil, is that similar to Neem oil and can it be sprayed after it is leafed out? I Did cut off affected leaves
Bonide Infuse is a systemic fungicide which the plant absorbs when sprayed on. Daconil is a contact fungicide which kills the fungi that land on the leaves and prevents an infection. Some use lime sulfur in winter to kill spores on the plant bark. If you read the labels most tell you that they prevent new infections but really do little once an infection occurs. So you need to be proactive and treat well before an infection. That means using lime sulfur in winter then Infuse or Cleary’s (another systemic) to prevent infections. You can then use Daconil or Mancozeb as alternatives afterwards to prevent the fungi from building up a resistance to the others.
Thanks both, so for now using the daconile during leaf will atleast control further spread? Is rust ever fatal to the tree? I cut off the couple affected leaves. It was raining for 3 days straight, perfect weather for fungal issues. Besides this it has been doing well. I’ll hit it with like sulfur in winter.Bonide Infuse is a systemic fungicide which the plant absorbs when sprayed on. Daconil is a contact fungicide which kills the fungi that land on the leaves and prevents an infection. Some use lime sulfur in winter to kill spores on the plant bark. If you read the labels most tell you that they prevent new infections but really do little once an infection occurs. So you need to be proactive and treat well before an infection. That means using lime sulfur in winter then Infuse or Cleary’s (another systemic) to prevent infections. You can then use Daconil or Mancozeb as alternatives afterwards to prevent the fungi from building up a resistance to the others.
From my understanding, cutting off all leaves on crab apples isn’t the same as say tridents or other deciduous when you defoliate. But that’s good it’s leaving out healthily.My understanding is cedar apple rust is not curable just controlled. Kind of like being a carrier of a virus of sorts. I believe I recently found it in a crab apple and cut off all the leaves and fruit. Then sprayed it with copper fungicide which I believe is not as good as daconil. It’s starting to leaf back out already and so far they look healthy. Will likely treat with infuse once it’s recovered a little more.
Yes, I’m not sure it was the right thing to do but I think it was early enough in the growing season that I’ve gotten away with it so far. I think I panicked a little. Have had so many different pests and diseases this year it’s been annoying. I think I just lost it and started cutting. Sucked losing all the apples though, there were many.From my understanding, cutting off all leaves on crab apples isn’t the same as say tridents or other deciduous when you defoliate. But that’s good it’s leaving out healthily.