So! I've done some research, now properly understand the importance of sorting the roots out! So that will of course be the first step next spring - spread the roots radially and evenly, make level, attach to board, add some good soil to the ground and plant.
These are some things I've read about boarding/roots/planting - wanted to check a few things and make sure I've not misunderstood anything or missed anything important!
- I've seen people use ceramic tiles or wood to board, is it generally that tiles are used in the ground and wood only in pots as it rots? Wood will rot in any media that is constantly moist. Marine ply is often used for its resistance to rotting. I know you screw the wood to the tree to secure it (preferably with a screw that won't rust? I used a stainless steel screw. You've probably got one or two in your garage knocking around - leave it out for a few weeks to see if it rusts but I'm not sure if trees react negatively to rust) I'm wondering how you would you secure the tree to a ceramic tile? I think I used an old plastic tray initially. You could use a tile - just secure it with jute or something else that will rot. To be honest, FM roots would push up even if screwed to a board.
- Should you tie the trunk to a stake or two until the roots reestablish? Yes, that's a good idea.
- I know you need to use something hard to board, rather than plastic sheets to stop water pooling and root rot.
- The planting hole needs to be slightly bigger than the tile so the roots can grow horizontally and then down from it
- Aware you can go hard on the roots so will do this and hopefully over time develop a good nebari
Seen so many great examples of amazing trunk development when in the ground, so definitely going with
@Paulpash on that one! Fingers crossed it'll help add some trunk movement. Would a trunk chop/air layer be necessary to create taper, or would that occur without? Sorry I'm still learning
Yes, you will have to chop (remember to tilt the trunk before you board and plant it), otherwise it'll just stay a straight cylinder. Chop to a shoot growing in the opposite direction to the planting orientation, eg lean to left = chop to a right moving shoot for the next trunk section.
About air layering/chop - if anything I will air layer. I don't come across decent sized material so wouldn't want to waste any! Unsure whether I'll go for this or leave as a larger tree yet - will make that decision when the time comes! I do like the cutting a hollow idea from
@Shibui - will be looking into that next to see if I think it is within my capabilities!
For this year - letting it grow! It's got tons of growth though, is it advisable to prune lightly when at this stage, or to leave it completely?
No point in pruning - you're going to need max growth. Once you get it out of the pot, establish which side will be the front I can see it growing tons over the coming months. There's also multiple shoots coming from various points - I'm guessing I don't need to worry about this yet and just leave them be?
Thanks as always!
