cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
Local pickup….Early Spring!
Message me……I should have larger cuttings too by April.
CM BONSAI——-My Garden Activities
- Thread starter cmeg1
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Message me……I should have larger cuttings too by April.
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
ITS FUNNY THE MISTAKES MY CROPS SUFFER
Thats why I grow pines!
They actually survive them.
So I made 600 of the most pristine seedling cuttings only to find I dipled them in dip& grow at 5x strength( the max) for 5 minutes.My usual and tried and true has always been 10x @5min.
I learned this years ago from a post on Bonsai Tonight by Jonas Dupuich.
Anyway,I was wondering why all my stems were looking fried.
There is still quite a few that rooted though so I am content I will have enough for my winter grow.
Interestingly enough I noticed that the ones that were cut at a slightly later stage when the stems are a deeper red goind to a slightly yello at the cut end survive and root better.Because the latest tray I cut were approaching that stage and the success is much better…even at the overly strong 5x strength of dip&grow.
Anyways I had to laugh.
I will probably never do a crop of zelkkova brooms indoors again.They just will not survive the mis-calculation I will almost un-doubtedly make
The pine do though…….UNLESS STARTED TO EARLY AND THEY GROW SO BIG THEY SHADE ONE ANOTHER OUT!
I am finding zelkova seedlings are best started outdoors in full sun in straight perlite!!
Grade #2
They grow much stronger with the aeration.Simply in flats of perlite and then I can leave them there while I proceed to make seedling air-layers and make the mini/kabudachi as planned.So I am still working on this.
When I do have success of these….It will be a big crop……..
Thats why I grow pines!
They actually survive them.
So I made 600 of the most pristine seedling cuttings only to find I dipled them in dip& grow at 5x strength( the max) for 5 minutes.My usual and tried and true has always been 10x @5min.
I learned this years ago from a post on Bonsai Tonight by Jonas Dupuich.
Anyway,I was wondering why all my stems were looking fried.
There is still quite a few that rooted though so I am content I will have enough for my winter grow.
Interestingly enough I noticed that the ones that were cut at a slightly later stage when the stems are a deeper red goind to a slightly yello at the cut end survive and root better.Because the latest tray I cut were approaching that stage and the success is much better…even at the overly strong 5x strength of dip&grow.
Anyways I had to laugh.
I will probably never do a crop of zelkkova brooms indoors again.They just will not survive the mis-calculation I will almost un-doubtedly make
The pine do though…….UNLESS STARTED TO EARLY AND THEY GROW SO BIG THEY SHADE ONE ANOTHER OUT!
I am finding zelkova seedlings are best started outdoors in full sun in straight perlite!!
Grade #2
They grow much stronger with the aeration.Simply in flats of perlite and then I can leave them there while I proceed to make seedling air-layers and make the mini/kabudachi as planned.So I am still working on this.
When I do have success of these….It will be a big crop……..
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
MORE EXPLANATION AND CURRENT PICTURES—SEEDLING CUTTINGS TIME TO MAKE THE CUTTINGS AND RESULTS.
Here is pictures from today of results from making cutting too early when slightly red w/a more green cut end and also the perfect time of a deeper red color w/ a slightly yellow color at the cut end.
I have deduced that if you wait longer than this it’s lower succes as the stem is so hard a single root will pop out of the hardened stem and effectively be just a tap rooted seedling again defeating the purpose of seedling cutting
Here is pictures from today of results from making cutting too early when slightly red w/a more green cut end and also the perfect time of a deeper red color w/ a slightly yellow color at the cut end.
I have deduced that if you wait longer than this it’s lower succes as the stem is so hard a single root will pop out of the hardened stem and effectively be just a tap rooted seedling again defeating the purpose of seedling cutting
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
RESULT OF A MORE RED AND TURNING SLIGHTLY YELLOW AT THE CUT END….PERFECT TIME/without waiting too long into a hardened woody stem.
Here is this result of the best way with them after a week in the propogator…..totally ready to push roots in a day or two.
Here is this result of the best way with them after a week in the propogator…..totally ready to push roots in a day or two.
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
THE MOST RECENT TRAY I DID WAS THE BETTER WAY WITH RED/YELLOW COLORATION.
Oddly even at a mistaken calculation of DIP& GROW strength of 5x max @ 5 minute dip….this whole tray is nearly 100% callous and will root in a matter of days……..since a slightly more mature seedling before cutting.
***To be safe I use the mid strength 10x @ 5 minute dip normally.***
Oddly even at a mistaken calculation of DIP& GROW strength of 5x max @ 5 minute dip….this whole tray is nearly 100% callous and will root in a matter of days……..since a slightly more mature seedling before cutting.
***To be safe I use the mid strength 10x @ 5 minute dip normally.***
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
THERE IS ROOTING GOING ON IN THE FIRST TWO FLATS THANKFULLY……even after the DIP&GROW strength mis-calculation.
I am definately thankful.Many of the cutting in the first couple flats were mature enough when cutting the seedling to survive the 5xmax @5 min Dip&Grow!!!
More than usual have dried though.
Good lesson learned.
I am definately thankful.Many of the cutting in the first couple flats were mature enough when cutting the seedling to survive the 5xmax @5 min Dip&Grow!!!
More than usual have dried though.
Good lesson learned.
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
THE LAST FLAT SHOULD BE GREAT!
After only 10 days this last flat is looking great…nearly 100% are calloused perfectly.
Will be i teresting to see the percentage of full and radial rooting.
****with all my seedling cutting propogation… I always proceed to dip the flat into a resevoir of 5:2 ratio fulvic acid/kelp solution to stimulate roots quickly as soon as callousing appears such as this****
Do not water the solution overhead as the kelo will burn the whole flat…..dunk the tray and saturate from underneath.
This definately make more roots!
You can tell I dunked these a day ago from the amber coloration on the callousing stem!!!
After only 10 days this last flat is looking great…nearly 100% are calloused perfectly.
Will be i teresting to see the percentage of full and radial rooting.
****with all my seedling cutting propogation… I always proceed to dip the flat into a resevoir of 5:2 ratio fulvic acid/kelp solution to stimulate roots quickly as soon as callousing appears such as this****
Do not water the solution overhead as the kelo will burn the whole flat…..dunk the tray and saturate from underneath.
This definately make more roots!
You can tell I dunked these a day ago from the amber coloration on the callousing stem!!!
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
THE OUTDOOR SEEDLING ARE GREAT TOO!
The cuttings are great,but the regular grown outdoor seedlings are definately something to behold though!!
I love growing the regular seedlings.These have been nurtured slowly with a roots first approach since May 15 sewing the seed this Soring outside.They have ample sunshine over 8 hours a day.Every single week I have foliar fed the 5:2 ratio fulvic acid/kelp to promote a more photosynthetic plant with more backbudding and less meristem growth…..Keeps them nice and stocky and more budding.
There is no sense over fertilizing the nitrogen with a naturally slow growing plant at this seedling stage.
Currently though they are going into a maturing stage building the end of season bud and thickening for the winter dormant season so I give them a slightly elevated potassium ratio.I learned potassium is depleted extremely quickly in maturing plants…like in hours or days so I have always added more and the results are noticeable.The excess nitrogen is virtually unnessesary.There is lots happening in a stationary photosynthesising plant as long as nothing is missing nutritionally.
Here they are this morning after their weekly foliar feed.
The remaining Summer and during Autumn these will probably suprise me how much they will bulk up!
The cuttings are great,but the regular grown outdoor seedlings are definately something to behold though!!
I love growing the regular seedlings.These have been nurtured slowly with a roots first approach since May 15 sewing the seed this Soring outside.They have ample sunshine over 8 hours a day.Every single week I have foliar fed the 5:2 ratio fulvic acid/kelp to promote a more photosynthetic plant with more backbudding and less meristem growth…..Keeps them nice and stocky and more budding.
There is no sense over fertilizing the nitrogen with a naturally slow growing plant at this seedling stage.
Currently though they are going into a maturing stage building the end of season bud and thickening for the winter dormant season so I give them a slightly elevated potassium ratio.I learned potassium is depleted extremely quickly in maturing plants…like in hours or days so I have always added more and the results are noticeable.The excess nitrogen is virtually unnessesary.There is lots happening in a stationary photosynthesising plant as long as nothing is missing nutritionally.
Here they are this morning after their weekly foliar feed.
The remaining Summer and during Autumn these will probably suprise me how much they will bulk up!
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
THE FOLIAR FEED!!!
Per gallon of pure clean water( use distilled or RO water).
NEVER USE RAIN OR TAP WATER….Rain is somewhat dirty if stored for later use with the fulvic acid being a very powerful ion transporter it will create a fungus probably.Tap water is hard and will transport some bad ions into the leaves too efficiently…….just pure clean water,fulvic acid and kelp powders are all you want in the foliar feed……..no NPK whatsoever!!
No more than once a week or it will burn…it makes the leaves so cytokinetically active and hot that they will overheat!!
Per gallon water —-1/8 tsp pure fulvic acid powder……1/16 tsp pure kelp powder……1/64 tsp pure yucca powder.
Yucca is a surfectant and will spread the water evenly across waxy pine leaves………also gives a natural fungicide effect and toughening desert plant effect too!
Use a fine atomizing spray!
WOO HOOO!
Natural fungicide!!
Per gallon of pure clean water( use distilled or RO water).
NEVER USE RAIN OR TAP WATER….Rain is somewhat dirty if stored for later use with the fulvic acid being a very powerful ion transporter it will create a fungus probably.Tap water is hard and will transport some bad ions into the leaves too efficiently…….just pure clean water,fulvic acid and kelp powders are all you want in the foliar feed……..no NPK whatsoever!!
No more than once a week or it will burn…it makes the leaves so cytokinetically active and hot that they will overheat!!
Per gallon water —-1/8 tsp pure fulvic acid powder……1/16 tsp pure kelp powder……1/64 tsp pure yucca powder.
Yucca is a surfectant and will spread the water evenly across waxy pine leaves………also gives a natural fungicide effect and toughening desert plant effect too!
Use a fine atomizing spray!
WOO HOOO!
Natural fungicide!!
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
ZELKOVA IN PURE PERLITE
I still want a ton of the kabudachi zelkova.
I have found it best to grow them outdoors.In oure perlite flats is best to grow them and then I will proceed with ringbark technique to make the small kabudachi………seems I always make a mistake indoors and they never survive.
So outdoors it will be.
I started some late this season to test a method of storing them in a spare refridgerator I have.
Here they are
Next season if viable seed is secured I will plant into flats of perlite so I can ringbark easily later in the season to make the end products like in the last pictures…..this will all be more efficient and grow space preserving using flats of 100 or so seedlings ready to ringbark!
I will just ringbark them in the flats and then plant into the mini-blocks seperatly after they root.
I still want a ton of the kabudachi zelkova.
I have found it best to grow them outdoors.In oure perlite flats is best to grow them and then I will proceed with ringbark technique to make the small kabudachi………seems I always make a mistake indoors and they never survive.
So outdoors it will be.
I started some late this season to test a method of storing them in a spare refridgerator I have.
Here they are
Next season if viable seed is secured I will plant into flats of perlite so I can ringbark easily later in the season to make the end products like in the last pictures…..this will all be more efficient and grow space preserving using flats of 100 or so seedlings ready to ringbark!
I will just ringbark them in the flats and then plant into the mini-blocks seperatly after they root.
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
PINE SEEDLINGS THIS EVENING.
Ready to see them swell up!
There is still many weeks of pine growth for the season though.
These have a very nice and good color to them in the setting sunlight.
The smaller ones down toward the end of the table nearly out of sight may be brought into the growhouse at the end of the season with the cuttings that will be finishing rooting by then for a half and half crop of cuttings and seedlings over the winter.I am not sure there is time for them to set a winter terminal bud yet.I started them on July 1st I believe.
Ready to see them swell up!
There is still many weeks of pine growth for the season though.
These have a very nice and good color to them in the setting sunlight.
The smaller ones down toward the end of the table nearly out of sight may be brought into the growhouse at the end of the season with the cuttings that will be finishing rooting by then for a half and half crop of cuttings and seedlings over the winter.I am not sure there is time for them to set a winter terminal bud yet.I started them on July 1st I believe.
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
HERE ARE SOME SEEDLING CUTTINGS—-16 days
I always go through these every couple days to see how many I got.It is definately better than I thought it would be!
I used the very strong 5x strength and I am amazed.The last tray of slightly maturer stems is rooting at nearly 100%.Nearly all are full and radial rooted too.
I need to go get some growblocks…..probably 3” Grodan blocks.
I always go through these every couple days to see how many I got.It is definately better than I thought it would be!
I used the very strong 5x strength and I am amazed.The last tray of slightly maturer stems is rooting at nearly 100%.Nearly all are full and radial rooted too.
I need to go get some growblocks…..probably 3” Grodan blocks.
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
WATERING THE OUTDOOR SEEDLINGS THIS MORNING…….
Funny how they float in the flood table……
I am happy to see the Winter meri-stem bud starting to appear…..a great sign of a durable and hardy plant to survive the Winter.
There is still many weeks to go and these should really thicken up quickly before dormancy.
Funny how they float in the flood table……
I am happy to see the Winter meri-stem bud starting to appear…..a great sign of a durable and hardy plant to survive the Winter.
There is still many weeks to go and these should really thicken up quickly before dormancy.
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
OUTDOOR SEEDLING TODAY BEFORE AND AFTER FOLIAR FEEDING.
Looking good and filling in some.
Still many weeks of growth yet!
Looking good and filling in some.
Still many weeks of growth yet!
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
1ST NUTRIENT DEFICIENCY OF THE SEASON
Seems to be nitrogen deficiency.Probably from the very shallow rootball on these growing out the bottom of the mini cube.They were planted half way deep into a 1.5” cube!
This has shown up as the Autumn terminal bud is setting and probably using lots of energy,as the generalbyellowing is starting around there and the interior of the leaf.
I was always a fan of a spoonfeeding approach.I was goin to single these out into their own flat,but I jjust dunked them all.
I added an extra 1/4 tsp of ammonium nitrogen…very pure and fast results…..A really heavy dose it was added to my regular nutrient of an ec of .8
It brought the total ec up to a late veg stregth of 1.6!!
So from 400 ppm —-to around 780 ppm.
This is using a pure water so quite strong……I have never fertilized over 1.6 ec.
This should green them up by the end of the day.
I am happy to spoonfeed nutrient deficiencies instead of applying heavy nutrients all season…..especially nitrogen……They are healthier plants because of all this.
There was probably nearly 40 or so plants that bad this pale green yellowing……..undoubtedly a nitrogen deficiency.
I will post pictures when they green up…..maybe by the end of the day!!
npk-industries.com
Seems to be nitrogen deficiency.Probably from the very shallow rootball on these growing out the bottom of the mini cube.They were planted half way deep into a 1.5” cube!
This has shown up as the Autumn terminal bud is setting and probably using lots of energy,as the generalbyellowing is starting around there and the interior of the leaf.
I was always a fan of a spoonfeeding approach.I was goin to single these out into their own flat,but I jjust dunked them all.
I added an extra 1/4 tsp of ammonium nitrogen…very pure and fast results…..A really heavy dose it was added to my regular nutrient of an ec of .8
It brought the total ec up to a late veg stregth of 1.6!!
So from 400 ppm —-to around 780 ppm.
This is using a pure water so quite strong……I have never fertilized over 1.6 ec.
This should green them up by the end of the day.
I am happy to spoonfeed nutrient deficiencies instead of applying heavy nutrients all season…..especially nitrogen……They are healthier plants because of all this.
There was probably nearly 40 or so plants that bad this pale green yellowing……..undoubtedly a nitrogen deficiency.
I will post pictures when they green up…..maybe by the end of the day!!
RAW Nitrogen | 20% Ammonium Nitrogen | Water-Soluble Supplement
20% ammonium nitrogen. Clean, water-soluble source for correcting deficiencies or balancing recipes. Works in all grow systems.
npk-industries.com
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cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
WORKING ON THE NUTRIENT DEFICIENCY I DETECTED…..
Well I gave these pines a nice boost of ammonium type nitrogen for the yellowing in the base of the needles…..It was not the remedy,so this is not nitrogen deficiency.
Next I decided to treat for magnesium deficiency and potassium deficiency.
This is noticable only suddenly as the terminal winter bud is starting to appear and set and also a bigtime Autumn thickening of the stems too.So all this action is depleting energy quickly.
Now I have heard of potassium deficiency being quite pronounced in the fruiting,budding and flowering stage of plants….like depleting potassium in a matter of hours.But that tends to stall plants.These plants were not stalling at all!
So perhaps magnesium deficiency.It turns out I have been under dosing magnesium by more than 50% all season…..maybe even 70% at times since fertilizing slowly and guestimating my nutrient resevoir….I would always under do it! So I would not make it a mineral toxic environment by accident.
Perhaps with the Autumn bud surge,this is quickly depleting magnesium and potassium both.
Well,today I gave a rather correcting strong dose of both nutrients according to recipes I have.
We shall see..its only on budding trees….
I have a feeling this will fix it.
The plants are handling it quite well beings they were healthy all season and not over fertilized.
Here is the yellowing at the base of the needles of the budding Pines today while they were dunked in the remedy nutrients.
I am almost certain this is magnesium deficiency…….or perhaps just a general deficiency…….magnesium and potassium.
Well I gave these pines a nice boost of ammonium type nitrogen for the yellowing in the base of the needles…..It was not the remedy,so this is not nitrogen deficiency.
Next I decided to treat for magnesium deficiency and potassium deficiency.
This is noticable only suddenly as the terminal winter bud is starting to appear and set and also a bigtime Autumn thickening of the stems too.So all this action is depleting energy quickly.
Now I have heard of potassium deficiency being quite pronounced in the fruiting,budding and flowering stage of plants….like depleting potassium in a matter of hours.But that tends to stall plants.These plants were not stalling at all!
So perhaps magnesium deficiency.It turns out I have been under dosing magnesium by more than 50% all season…..maybe even 70% at times since fertilizing slowly and guestimating my nutrient resevoir….I would always under do it! So I would not make it a mineral toxic environment by accident.
Perhaps with the Autumn bud surge,this is quickly depleting magnesium and potassium both.
Well,today I gave a rather correcting strong dose of both nutrients according to recipes I have.
We shall see..its only on budding trees….
I have a feeling this will fix it.
The plants are handling it quite well beings they were healthy all season and not over fertilized.
Here is the yellowing at the base of the needles of the budding Pines today while they were dunked in the remedy nutrients.
I am almost certain this is magnesium deficiency…….or perhaps just a general deficiency…….magnesium and potassium.
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
PINES LOOKED GREAT IN THE LATE SUMMER SUNSHINE TODAY.
I remedied the nutrient deficiency and actually just gave the boost to all the plants as a precautionary measure.
I soaked them all for about 20 minutes……This should really help them out and make them strong for Winter.
I will probably fertilze these more stronger the rest of the season.These are really putting on girth this time of year…very pronounced!
Anyways they are great in the Sunshine
There is a few pics of the seedling cuttings too…getting ready to put them in the growhouse after potting them up soon.They are in a settling phase freshly rooted,but are handling full sunshine…all 8 hours of it!
Fun time of year for Japanese Black Pine.
I remedied the nutrient deficiency and actually just gave the boost to all the plants as a precautionary measure.
I soaked them all for about 20 minutes……This should really help them out and make them strong for Winter.
I will probably fertilze these more stronger the rest of the season.These are really putting on girth this time of year…very pronounced!
Anyways they are great in the Sunshine
There is a few pics of the seedling cuttings too…getting ready to put them in the growhouse after potting them up soon.They are in a settling phase freshly rooted,but are handling full sunshine…all 8 hours of it!
Fun time of year for Japanese Black Pine.
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