Collecting from my own landscape redo

substratum

Shohin
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We are going to be clearing some overgrown hedges on my property in the next week or two, and I believe some of the plants might be worth salvaging for future bonsai. Much of the hedge is in Formosa Azalea, which is a big leaf/large bloom variety, but some of the azaleas are smaller leaf/small-med bloom variety. It’s the latter of the azaleas I’m thinking might be good. There are also:
*Forsythia
*American Beauty Berry (3-3.5” trunks)
*Wisteria
*Scuppernong Grape (1/2’ fruit, 2” leaf, wild)
*Silverthorne
*Privet
All of the planted specimens are in the 25-year old range, planted by the previous home homeowner.

There are also two plants commonly known here in the deep south as a “Banana Bush” or “Banana Shrub,” which has a waxy green leaf, and the small yellowish bloom with a faint banana scent. The Banana Bush seems to be prone to white scale type ailments, but they are also indestructible. Growing up, it’d be the kind of plant that I'd find on old homesteads or in a grandmother’s yard. These two plants are likely planted by the original homeowner, in the 45-year old range, and have very complex trunks from being cut down to the ground repeatedly over the decades.

As a next phase of yard redevelopment (next winter), I’ll likely be taking out a row of 15-year old Nellie Stevens Holly, some Variegated Ligustrum, scads of Indian Hawthorne, a few Loropetalum that are currently about 18’ tall (I thought they were a “bush” plant when I installed them, LOL). There will be some massive Pittosporum coming out, but I can’t imagine them as bonsai. All of this is stuff I planted, as the house landscaping when I bought the place.

Here’s where I need advice. I don’t have time to set up with grown trays, or do any complex soil mixtures before this first phase begins (I could easily do a nursery mix). I have acreage, so there’s plenty of room and naturally shaded areas that I can use to put 20-30 plants to recover and grow. Given these circumstances, and the fact that I can do little more than pot these plants up, what advice would you offer. In essence, knowing that all I can do is dig up and pot these plants, what approach should I take to digging, potting size/depth, pruning, etc. Colanders… would that be a step worth taking given the situation, or is that for a specific purpose and mix? Any specific advice regarding the species mentioned in the first two paragraphs, would be most welcome. Honestly, any words of wisdom about things you think I may encounter, or in making the collecting go better, is welcome.

Once these hedges are removed, before we take next steps in planting, I’ll do some intensive chemical defoliating, because there are years of layering root systems, and lots of hateful/thorny vines that need to die.
 

leatherback

The Treedeemer
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I would probably cut them to size. And move them to the acerage you have. Only pot the most promising few up, but do those properly. The, every year you pot up a few more taking them from the growinh bed.

That will give you time to do the rootwork right, and gives you a supply for years to come. Also, it will allow some of the plants to close some heavier cuts while in the ground.

Toss the least interesting trunk. Just because you have them does not mean they will become good trees..
 

River's Edge

Masterpiece
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We are going to be clearing some overgrown hedges on my property in the next week or two, and I believe some of the plants might be worth salvaging for future bonsai. Much of the hedge is in Formosa Azalea, which is a big leaf/large bloom variety, but some of the azaleas are smaller leaf/small-med bloom variety. It’s the latter of the azaleas I’m thinking might be good. There are also:
*Forsythia
*American Beauty Berry (3-3.5” trunks)
*Wisteria
*Scuppernong Grape (1/2’ fruit, 2” leaf, wild)
*Silverthorne
*Privet
All of the planted specimens are in the 25-year old range, planted by the previous home homeowner.

There are also two plants commonly known here in the deep south as a “Banana Bush” or “Banana Shrub,” which has a waxy green leaf, and the small yellowish bloom with a faint banana scent. The Banana Bush seems to be prone to white scale type ailments, but they are also indestructible. Growing up, it’d be the kind of plant that I'd find on old homesteads or in a grandmother’s yard. These two plants are likely planted by the original homeowner, in the 45-year old range, and have very complex trunks from being cut down to the ground repeatedly over the decades.

As a next phase of yard redevelopment (next winter), I’ll likely be taking out a row of 15-year old Nellie Stevens Holly, some Variegated Ligustrum, scads of Indian Hawthorne, a few Loropetalum that are currently about 18’ tall (I thought they were a “bush” plant when I installed them, LOL). There will be some massive Pittosporum coming out, but I can’t imagine them as bonsai. All of this is stuff I planted, as the house landscaping when I bought the place.

Here’s where I need advice. I don’t have time to set up with grown trays, or do any complex soil mixtures before this first phase begins (I could easily do a nursery mix). I have acreage, so there’s plenty of room and naturally shaded areas that I can use to put 20-30 plants to recover and grow. Given these circumstances, and the fact that I can do little more than pot these plants up, what advice would you offer. In essence, knowing that all I can do is dig up and pot these plants, what approach should I take to digging, potting size/depth, pruning, etc. Colanders… would that be a step worth taking given the situation, or is that for a specific purpose and mix? Any specific advice regarding the species mentioned in the first two paragraphs, would be most welcome. Honestly, any words of wisdom about things you think I may encounter, or in making the collecting go better, is welcome.

Once these hedges are removed, before we take next steps in planting, I’ll do some intensive chemical defoliating, because there are years of layering root systems, and lots of hateful/thorny vines that need to die.
I would pick up a quantity of Anderson Flats the deep style. 14 by 14 by 5 deep. Use pumice only with a larger particle gravel drainage layer about 1/2 inch deep. Set the flats in a partially shaded location to begin with, then adapt location for the particular species.
 

substratum

Shohin
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I would pick up a quantity of Anderson Flats the deep style. 14 by 14 by 5 deep. Use pumice only with a larger particle gravel drainage layer about 1/2 inch deep. Set the flats in a partially shaded location to begin with, then adapt location for the particular species.
Is it OK to set those directly on the ground (on a tarp or weed blocker of some sort), or should the flats be elevated an inch or two?
 

River's Edge

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Is it OK to set those directly on the ground (on a tarp or weed blocker of some sort), or should the flats be elevated an inch or two?
Better to elevate! That way you have the improved drainage and air access. In my case i have very rocky sandy soil so drainage is not an issue as long as air can get underneath. Sitting on rougher gravel can accomplish that! Wood Slats, PVC pipe etc.
I keep waiting for the manufacturer to do a footed version:cool:
 

Hack Yeah!

Omono
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I just ordered 20 of the 15*15 from https://www.stuewe.com, the shipping close to doubles the per item price to the east coast, you could elevate them with the cut branches if nothing else
 

substratum

Shohin
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Better to elevate! That way you have the improved drainage and air access. In my case i have very rocky sandy soil so drainage is not an issue as long as air can get underneath. Sitting on rougher gravel can accomplish that! Wood Slats, PVC pipe etc.
I keep waiting for the manufacturer to do a footed version:cool:
Anderson actually makes a little 3” cone-shaped foot for those flats you recommended.
 

River's Edge

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Anderson actually makes a little 3” cone-shaped foot for those flats you recommended.
I was not aware of that. Cool. Actually i just picked up 150 flats last month. wish i had been aware of that when i went to the factory. I will get some when i return for the Rendezvous in September. Txs
 

augustine

Chumono
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My opinion - small leaved azalea is good. Grape could be good if they had short gnarly trunks. Wisteria is a maybe depending on trunks.

Forsythia is no good unless you have a single fat trunk. Privet are used but landscape material do not usually have suitable trunks but a usuable species if you can find an interesting trunk.

Out of the group I like azalea and grape best. Never pass up a decent azalea, they are a pleasure to grow and easy to collect, at least in my area, and flower dependably.
 
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I think its better for you to approach the respective company for your garden design. I too an issue with my lawn . My problem was crabgrass invasion and what i did was i have tackle all the pesky weed that was haunting my garden. Besides being an eyesore, crabgrass typically dies off at the first frost, promoting soil erosion. Applying corn gluten meal, a natural alternative to chemical herbicide, in early spring can help contain the problem. Follow with a spring fertilizer. As the mowing season begins, don’t cut the grass too short, since this can open the door again for crabgrass. Set the deck on your mower or tractor to around 3½ inches. Most decks have notches, not inches, so getting the height just right can take some trial .

You can also seek the assistance of good landscaping companies for better solutions
 

River's Edge

Masterpiece
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pweifan

Shohin
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Great timing on the feet! I just requested a quote yesterday but haven't heard back yet. Maybe I can get them to add the feet into the quote. Thanks for the info :)
 

pweifan

Shohin
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FYI: I called and they said that the feet were not compatible with the ATRAY5 and ATRAY4 Anderson trays that people seem to be buying here. I ordered without the feet :(
 

just.wing.it

Deadwood Head
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FYI: I called and they said that the feet were not compatible with the ATRAY5 and ATRAY4 Anderson trays that people seem to be buying here. I ordered without the feet :(
When I have a flat container that I want up off of the bench, I use bamboo chopsticks.
I just lay down 2 sticks and place the container on top of them... replace the sticks when they get nasty...
 

Leo in N E Illinois

The Professor
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All the shrubs in the Phase 1 list can make decent bonsai if the first few inches of trunk are interesting. The azalea of course is tops for bonsai. The Beautyberry will be great if there are trunks over 2 inches in diameter. Forsythia is less likely, but can be lovely if you find a good trunk. Grape is only good if the trunk has interest, similar with wisteria, you need the first 6 inches of trunk to be interesting.

If you run out of time, just heal in the dug ups into a grow out bed, on the ground, Dig up again in 2 or 3 years.
 

sorce

Nonsense Rascal
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