Lars Grimm
Chumono
I noticed the crossing as well. I wonder if that creates some subtle undulations which give a more natural look.
Ebihara maples
- Thread starter markyscott
- Start date
I noticed the crossing as well. I wonder if that creates some subtle undulations which give a more natural look.
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
I can only guess that he plans eventually to remove these because I don't see any evidence of crossing roots in the more developed tree. He was more forgiving than I with roots coming from different levels though. Very educational to see details of his work.
Scott
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
Very educational to see what Ebihara-San did next on this tree. He did not stop with the root work - he appears to have spent several days on this tree. The lesson is to start with a good trunk with movement and taper. With skill and careful work, everything else can be done quickly.
After he completed his root work, he started grafting and removing the large escape branches that he had used to build the trunk. Let's see how he approached this work. First let's look at how he removed the big branches that were not part of the final design. He did not remove them all at once. Here's the tree after repotting:
Note his planned trunk line and the large branches that have to be removed:
Let's see what his approach was on these two branches.
After he completed his root work, he started grafting and removing the large escape branches that he had used to build the trunk. Let's see how he approached this work. First let's look at how he removed the big branches that were not part of the final design. He did not remove them all at once. Here's the tree after repotting:
Note his planned trunk line and the large branches that have to be removed:
Let's see what his approach was on these two branches.
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markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
First, the larger of the two branches:
He cut a large notch out of the branch, but left just enough of the branch to keep the stub he left alive. The wound itself he carved into a slightly convex shape so that the callous would follow the trunk line as healed over. I speculate that he is using growth from the stub to help heal over the wound before it's finally removed.
His approach with the other branch was different:
On this branch, he scraped away the bark and cambium, but left a stub attached. I assume this is left for the same reason - to promote healing of the wound. Why was his approach different? I don't know - it may be as simple as Ebihara trying to demonstrate different techniques for kinbon. But its an interesting approach that I've not seen used very often. Is it effective? Again, I don't know, but if Ebihara is doing it, it's probably worth a try.
He cut a large notch out of the branch, but left just enough of the branch to keep the stub he left alive. The wound itself he carved into a slightly convex shape so that the callous would follow the trunk line as healed over. I speculate that he is using growth from the stub to help heal over the wound before it's finally removed.
His approach with the other branch was different:
On this branch, he scraped away the bark and cambium, but left a stub attached. I assume this is left for the same reason - to promote healing of the wound. Why was his approach different? I don't know - it may be as simple as Ebihara trying to demonstrate different techniques for kinbon. But its an interesting approach that I've not seen used very often. Is it effective? Again, I don't know, but if Ebihara is doing it, it's probably worth a try.
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markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
Then the grafting. He performed a number of grafts on this tree. In fact, I think more or less every branch he planned on keeping was grafted. First he prepped the seedlings:
Look how he grew them out. The trunks are all coming out of the side of the pot! Everything is done for a reason.
Look how he grew them out. The trunks are all coming out of the side of the pot! Everything is done for a reason.
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
He drilled a hole through the trunk where he would pass through the whips.
He then wrapped the seedling whips in what looks like parafilm.
He then wrapped the seedling whips in what looks like parafilm.
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
Then he insterted the wrapped seedling branches through the hole and removed the parafilm.
Now it makes sense why the seedlings were trained to come out of the side of the pot. Makes it easier to position the grafts where you want them! This is a big difference between what I see in Japanese bonsai and that practiced elsewhere - attention to detail. I'm contantly relearning this lesson in my own back yard.
Now it makes sense why the seedlings were trained to come out of the side of the pot. Makes it easier to position the grafts where you want them! This is a big difference between what I see in Japanese bonsai and that practiced elsewhere - attention to detail. I'm contantly relearning this lesson in my own back yard.
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markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
He cleaned the wound and scraped the bark from the BOTTOM of the seedling where it exited the hole.
And then forced the seedling against the bottom of the hole using chopstick wedges.
He covered it all with cut paste and wired the new branch.
All done with that branch.
And then forced the seedling against the bottom of the hole using chopstick wedges.
He covered it all with cut paste and wired the new branch.
All done with that branch.
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
He repeated this, grafting six new branches into place.
Note that he had scraped the bark and cambium off the first branch, but had only cut back the larger sacrifice. That notch was cut out the following year.
Over the growing season, he let the branches he wanted to thicken extend long sacrifice shoots.
The grafts had fused sufficiently to remove them safely by late summer of that same year.
Note also that he had allowed a branch near the apex to grow very long to try and correct some taper issues at the top of the tree.. But he cut back everything else in the late summer/early fall. It's starting to look like a tree!
Note that he had scraped the bark and cambium off the first branch, but had only cut back the larger sacrifice. That notch was cut out the following year.
Over the growing season, he let the branches he wanted to thicken extend long sacrifice shoots.
The grafts had fused sufficiently to remove them safely by late summer of that same year.
Note also that he had allowed a branch near the apex to grow very long to try and correct some taper issues at the top of the tree.. But he cut back everything else in the late summer/early fall. It's starting to look like a tree!
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
Here's the final picture. If I read it correctly, this was taken one year after the original root work was done.
What do you think? Not too bad for a year's work. Note that he left that apical sacrifice on - clearly wanted more thickening there.
What do you think? Not too bad for a year's work. Note that he left that apical sacrifice on - clearly wanted more thickening there.
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Lars Grimm
Chumono
I am amazed he got that much growth and work to happen in a single year especially in a pot and not the ground or a deeper box. Do you know if his grafts were originally taken from the same tree to ensure genetic similarity? Also, it looks like there are two major trunk chops to get the main body of the tree. Is that correct?
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
From what I understand, Mr. Ebihara did not grow any of his Japanese maples in the ground. All were developed in grow boxes from seedling on - including during trunk development! He grew them in full sun.
The article does not talk about the trunk development stage, but I can see at least two major chops. There may have been more.
Great commentary, Scott!
At dinner last night, Pete Parker asked me why I put up with the flames I sometimes get on this forum. And I replied that I like to teach, and help people do better bonsai. And I mentioned that you do, too.
And Pete said that you are one of the best teachers he's ever known, and you seem to have a passion for it!
I agree!
By the way, it appears that the pine and shimpaku grafts did not take on your olive. So, what would you like to try next? Atlas Cedar? Winterberry? Trident? (No, trident is too easy...). Ah ha! Wisteria!! Oh, wait... you already have that from the swimming pool... maybe we should let people here vote! (Only one vote per person. Else our new President might launch an investigation into BonsaiNut!)
Lol!!! Now I've done it!
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
How about Zelkova? I saw a beautiful little broom on the bench. Just cut it off right above the roots and stick it on to the olive. I'm sure it will take!
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
And I do love to teach. I only do bonsai because it's so attractive to all of the women!
Japanese Maples are vulnerable to a disease that can be passed through the soil. Especially if tomatos are grown nearby. So, it's safer to grow them in containers.
Lars Grimm
Chumono
Boon said the same thing regarding disease when he visited our club. Japanese in boxes and tridents in the ground was the takeaway I got.
Didn't like that one, Scott? How about this one?
This tree is from a cutting. About 40 years ago. Never root grafted. Kotohime.
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
That's the one. Thanks Adair.
