The first task I would do, which is more important than worrying about style or pruning. Get that tree out of the ball and burlap and repotted either into a grow out container, a raised bed where it is easy to get down to look at, or least easy place to work on it, get it planted in the ground. For a grow out container, I would look for or build a container (we build wooden boxes here) that holds more potting material than the current root ball inside the burlap. Since most standard production bonsai pots are 10 cm or less in depth, the grow out container should be shallow, no more than 12.5 cm in depth, and wide enough to hold more media than the current burlap ball. I use heavy plastic trays, called Anderson flats, that have a plastic mesh bottom that holds medium and coarse grades of bonsai soil, allowing air, water and fine particles to escape. They are roughly 50 x 50 x 13 cm in size. They hold about 12 to 16 liters of potting media. I would expect you would be able to source or make something the appropriate size. The large container will allow room for growth to thicken the trunk, the shallow depth allows you to begin to train the root system and nebari for the future bonsai pot. Prune off downward growing roots, spread the roots out, like the spokes of a wheel. Most members of the blueberry & azalea family have shallow wide spreading root systems, they tend to not have deep tap roots. So this should be fairly easy to do. I would use Kanuma as your potting media. Or an acidic nursery blend. This tree will not tolerate alkaline conditions.
You have 2 options, not do much pruning, just pot it up and get it established. Or get right to work. I would probably just pot it up, let it get established. Let it bloom, see if you like the flavor of the edible fruit. Grow it for a year or two and get familiar with the rhythms of blooming, branch growth, root growth and so on.
I see two options for this tree. Basically, use what you have to make an informal broom style, or chop just below the knot of branches and start over. It is in the blueberry family, I expect if you chop, it will back bud on old wood, but warning, it will probably send up suckers from the roots. If you chop remove any low on the roots suckers immediately as they sprout. The reason is that there is a good chance the root system will abandon the "chopped trunk" in favor of the root suckers from the base. High bush blueberries do this, which is how as a blueberry farmer, I get 50 year old bushes to renew themselves.
My choice would be going for the "informal broom style". In the informal broom, the branches do not all come from exactly the same level in the tree. You have some variation in height as to where these branches start. The branches you would keep are pretty much all on the outside of that cluster. If I were you, I would start by removing branches interior to that cluster branches. Not all at once. Just take off 3 or 4 that are skinny, dead arrow straight, and packed inside, where they never would become one of the continuing lines of the tree. Take out 3 or 4, then step back and re-evaluate the tree. See if there are more that could be removed. The goal would be to get the number of branches of that cluster down to 7, or 5, I probably would not reduce further than 5, as then the number of scars that would need to heal would be too great. As you remove branches from the cluster, try to have the cut scars on the inside of the cluster, to keep a smooth bark on the outside, facing the viewers. Also, if the number or size of the scars gets to be large, stop for the year, allow the wounds to heal a year or two before the next round of reduction. Use the "top jin" cut paste recommended for azalea. Seal the wounds.
As to height. Initially I would be tempted to leave it tall, let it bloom, get familiar with what it naturally does. Then I would take it down by about 1/3rd. You need a large volume of leaves if you want to keep the trunk thickening. Pruning off branches and lowering the height of the bush will work against increasing the diameter of the trunk. So don't get too vigorous pruning right away. You can get more aggressive pruning once the diameter of the trunk is where you want it.
Hope this helps.
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