How late can I can repot a JWP

bonsaiguru

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I got a Shohin JWP, upon inspecting the soil I noticed that it is quite compact, but it is full of mychoriz (dont know how to spell it). I am wondering if I can get away with a quick repot or wait til spring. I am in the bay area (east bay). I already scrap some of the compact soil from the top and made some holes, but don't know if that is enough.
 
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Is your tree in distress? Or were you distressed looking at it? :cool:

I would not, under any circumstances save the prevention of death, take a chance with a tree I have not had for many seasons at this moment.

Later this fall... assuming your tree is healthy, you could repot it once things cool off and go dormant. But if you do... be sure to protect it well - even where you live. But again... if you don't know how the tree has been kept, or when it was last repotted, I'd wait. If it's a nice one, you really should take the time to get it up to Kathy Shaner and have her advise you. She does study groups up in Santa Rosa that are very reasonable, and they happen fairly often. She's a wise and wonderful teacher. Or there is Boon... his work with pines is amazing, and he's in the Bay area.
Take advantage of your local resources, and learn the techniques to success the first time. :)

Kindest regards,

Victrinia
 
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Did I mention Jim Gremel?? He's smokin' hot also... you live in bonsai teacher mecca....

just sayin.... ;)
 

greerhw

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I got a Shohin JWP, upon inspecting the soil I noticed that it is quite compact, but it is full of mychoriz (dont know how to spell it). I am wondering if I can get away with a quick repot or wait til spring. I am in the bay area (east bay). I already scrap some of the compact soil from the top and made some holes, but don't know if that is enough.

Take a pair of bonsai shears, stick them in the soil next to the the edge of the pot. If you cannot push the shears in easily, then wait until the dormancy period in your environment and then repot. You do not have to clean all the roots at this time, just remove about an inch around the edge the root ball, bottom and sides, repot with new soil and let the sucker grow, the next season root prune and clean the old soil, you will be amazed at the improvement .

Harry
 
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Take a pair of bonsai shears, stick them in the soil next to the the edge of the pot. If you cannot push the shears in easily, then wait until the dormancy period in your environment and then repot. You do not have to clean all the roots at this time, just remove about an inch around the edge the root ball, bottom and sides, repot with new soil and let the sucker grow, the next season root prune and clean the old soil, you will be amazed at the improvement .

Harry

Absolutely spot on advice as long as the health of the tree is good... Photos of the growth from this year would tell us a lot about what the tree can handle.

V
 

tanlu

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While early spring is the safest season to repot JWP, early to mid autumn works too. I repotted a non-grafted JWP in mid Sept, I even removed 25% of the roots and it did very well. If you're in the Bay Area you may need to wait till Oct.
 

bonsaiguru

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Here is a picture...thx for all the help

Thank you all for the advices. I know about the repotting in fall, but it is a bit risky. I think I will go with Harry's advice with the shears. I actually try it with some thin sharp tip bamboo sticks and I can barely make it in the soil. I have done a workshop with Jim and Marco and actually bought the dvd bundle set that Boon sales which it is actually really good dvds.

When I get some time and money I am going to do the intensive course that Boon has.

I know about Kathy and she is awesome, I seen her do a workshop. I did not know that she does workshops in Santa Rosa, definitely going to check that out.

Attach is a picture of the JWP
 

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greerhw

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Thank you all for the advices. I know about the repotting in fall, but it is a bit risky. I think I will go with Harry's advice with the shears. I actually try it with some thin sharp tip bamboo sticks and I can barely make it in the soil. I have done a workshop with Jim and Marco and actually bought the dvd bundle set that Boon sales which it is actually really good dvds.

When I get some time and money I am going to do the intensive course that Boon has.

I know about Kathy and she is awesome, I seen her do a workshop. I did not know that she does workshops in Santa Rosa, definitely going to check that out.

Attach is a picture of the JWP

New advice, since your tree is in a round plastic pot, you can remove it quite easily and check to see if it's root bound. If it appears to be fine, just stick it back in the pot and let it grow if not then trim some of the roots and lossen the soil a little around the roots then put it back in the pot until you're ready to put it in a bonsai pot. Nice healthy little tree, but it will need a good haircut before spring. Just remember JBP don't care much for their roots to messed with very much.

Harry
 

tanlu

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Thank you all for the advices. I know about the repotting in fall, but it is a bit risky. I think I will go with Harry's advice with the shears. I actually try it with some thin sharp tip bamboo sticks and I can barely make it in the soil. I have done a workshop with Jim and Marco and actually bought the dvd bundle set that Boon sales which it is actually really good dvds.

When I get some time and money I am going to do the intensive course that Boon has.

I know about Kathy and she is awesome, I seen her do a workshop. I did not know that she does workshops in Santa Rosa, definitely going to check that out.

Attach is a picture of the JWP

I would either go with Harry's last advice, or just wait till spring. I only repotted my JWP because it arrived in burlap and needed to actually go in a pot. Plus I could tell it was growing in potting soil before it arrived, so some of the soil needed to be removed.

Cute tree. It looks like it's grafted on to JBP. JBP are indeed unhappy about their roots being messed with too much, so keep that in mind.
 

sacs

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Hi everyone, new to the site.

One way to check the health of a pine is by counting the number of buds each shoot produces. Two or three is good, if there is only one it may indicate that it is time for transplanting.

If the pot is compacted with mycorrhiza you will have to water carefully, it can be hard for the water to get in the soil so needs to be watered for longer. Although it shouldn't be a problem with the pot it's in now.

Lovely tree, maybe some wiring would help to allow light to the inner part of the tree which could help with bud production and even back budding.

Hope this helps
 

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