Japanese Maple cracks in bark
- Thread starter Kevin1968
- Start date
caffeinated
Mame
Around here we usually see that in winter or early spring when we get warm days and freezes overnight but I think they can happen with any dramatic change from daytime to nighttime temps. The bark expands and contracts at a different rate than the wood beneath and cracks.
Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
Sometimes cracks in the bark result from fast trunk expansion - growth but that doesn't look like what's happening here.
Physical damage to the bark or to the cambium can also cause bark to die and crack. The colour here looks like dead bark. You could gently explore the crack to see what's happening underneath and see how far the dead section extends.
The damage was probably many months ago. It takes a long time for the outer bark to split and show the problem so you'll need to think back for possible causes.
Cold damage is one possibility. Sunburn can also cause similar but not likely under all those branches.
Physical damage - trunk was hit, bent, insect damage - could also cause something like this. Disease is another possible cause.
good news is that provided the tree is healthy and growing well it should be able to heal over a thin dead section.
Florida is probably not the best climate for Japanese maple so you could have ongoing issues with this one.
Physical damage to the bark or to the cambium can also cause bark to die and crack. The colour here looks like dead bark. You could gently explore the crack to see what's happening underneath and see how far the dead section extends.
The damage was probably many months ago. It takes a long time for the outer bark to split and show the problem so you'll need to think back for possible causes.
Cold damage is one possibility. Sunburn can also cause similar but not likely under all those branches.
Physical damage - trunk was hit, bent, insect damage - could also cause something like this. Disease is another possible cause.
good news is that provided the tree is healthy and growing well it should be able to heal over a thin dead section.
Florida is probably not the best climate for Japanese maple so you could have ongoing issues with this one.
Kevin1968
Yamadori
Caffeinated, I have never seen this before but our temps have been swinging from mid to high 90s back down too the 70s the last 2 weeks.
Probed around cracks with tweezers the bark is not pulled away from the trunk but about 1/8th inch from the crack at the furthest. Should I put past on it. Wrap with Grafting tape or just leave it alone and wait. It scared me at first.
Shibui, I live in Northeast Florida I see these growing in yards here, just have to be very careful where you put it and how you maintain them
Thank you for the replys.
Probed around cracks with tweezers the bark is not pulled away from the trunk but about 1/8th inch from the crack at the furthest. Should I put past on it. Wrap with Grafting tape or just leave it alone and wait. It scared me at first.
Shibui, I live in Northeast Florida I see these growing in yards here, just have to be very careful where you put it and how you maintain them
Thank you for the replys.
caffeinated
Mame
I'd just leave it. It'll callous over eventually. At least that's what my JM yard trees with similar cracks have done.
rockm
Spuds Moyogi
I'd wager the damage is from last winter, depending on where this tree was sourced. If it's a new acquisition trucked in from elsewhere where winter temps get below freezing, this could be southwest disease, when a tree's bark exposed to southern sun in the winter thaws out, then refreezes, killing the cambium by water in the trunk refreezing.
If it's been in Fla. all winter, could also happen there if your north in Jacksonville...
Otherwise, might be physical damage from something knocking into the trunk.
If it's been in Fla. all winter, could also happen there if your north in Jacksonville...
Otherwise, might be physical damage from something knocking into the trunk.
Kevin1968
Yamadori
I am in Jacksonville.
rockm
Spuds Moyogi
Has the tree been in Jacksonville and how long have you had it? Also, did Jacksonville get any late cold weather?
Kevin1968
Yamadori
The tree was grown from seed here in Jacksonville. I have had it for a couple of weeks.
Hack Yeah!
Omono
Attachments
Orion_metalhead
Masterpiece
They grow split-leaf from seed down there? All the split leaf acer palmatums ive seen here in NJ are grafted.
Anyway, tree looks healthy. Cracks tell a story!
Anyway, tree looks healthy. Cracks tell a story!
Scorpius
Chumono
I'm seeing a darker patch on the bark above the topmost crack if I'm not mistaken in your last photograph. That usually is fungal related issue. I would treat with a systemic fungicide like Bonide Infuse just to be safe.
rockm
Spuds Moyogi
I'd ask whoever grew it, where it was grown--as in did it have a southern exposure to the sun?--this damage can also result from sunscald, not just freezing (I'd also be a bit skeptical about it being grown from seed. Cut leaf maples are not really propagated that way, They usually grafted to insure the cut leaf trait. Seeds don't reliably pass that feature on.
FWIW, Sure looks like southwest disease to me.
Sunscald and Southwest Injury | What causes sun scald and southwest injury?
Hot summertime temperatures happen every year and each summer they can cause damage to tree trunks. These ugly trunk scars, called southwest injury or sunscald, are often confused for one another, but are actually two distinct types of injury. Southwest injury occurs in the winter.
www.uaex.uada.edu
Kevin1968
Yamadori
I will go ahead and treat for fungus because that will not hurt, also for pests as I had a spider mite issue years back that also will not hurt.
I will not be able to get that information any longer. But the tree does not show signs of grafting anywhere on the trunk. may have been from cutting then I guess, or he was real good at grafting. I have never been able to do one without it showing a little and I learned to graft 30 years ago.I'd ask whoever grew it, where it was grown--as in did it have a southern exposure to the sun?--this damage can also result from sunscald, not just freezing (I'd also be a bit skeptical about it being grown from seed. Cut leaf maples are not really propagated that way, They usually grafted to insure the cut leaf trait. Seeds don't reliably pass that feature on.
FWIW, Sure looks like southwest disease to me.
Sunscald and Southwest Injury | What causes sun scald and southwest injury?
Hot summertime temperatures happen every year and each summer they can cause damage to tree trunks. These ugly trunk scars, called southwest injury or sunscald, are often confused for one another, but are actually two distinct types of injury. Southwest injury occurs in the winter.www.uaex.uada.edu
rockm
Spuds Moyogi
Most likely a cutting.
rodeolthr
Shohin
I personally grow dissectum from seed, so it's a possibility that this is the case with this tree. It's my understanding that dissectums are next to impossible to air-layer and/or grow from cuttings.
Beyond that, I'm not seeing any roots or basal flare, so I'm wondering if the tree might be planted a bit deep.
Beyond that, I'm not seeing any roots or basal flare, so I'm wondering if the tree might be planted a bit deep.
Kevin1968
Yamadori
I have only had it a few weeks. and it needs a lot of trimming also replanting. It is in a number 10 nursery pot still so look for a big enough pot for it.
Kevin1968
Yamadori
Do you think I should repot first and trim next time around?
rodeolthr
Shohin
I would personally remove some of the soil from the top of the root zone....just brush is away or whatever, but get some air moving into that area.
Concerning trimming, my trees are beginning to put out a summer flush, so I'm pruning everything.....on some, just the apical branches, but on others, everything gets cut back to reduce the length of internodes and to induce ramification.
As far as repotting, I wouldn't worry about that now. In your climate, you should be able to repot anytime after leaf drop without concern. Against all tradition and "rules", I do all of me repotting in autumn, and then the trees typically are frozen for a couple of weeks. Your climate is definitely more mild than mine.
Concerning trimming, my trees are beginning to put out a summer flush, so I'm pruning everything.....on some, just the apical branches, but on others, everything gets cut back to reduce the length of internodes and to induce ramification.
As far as repotting, I wouldn't worry about that now. In your climate, you should be able to repot anytime after leaf drop without concern. Against all tradition and "rules", I do all of me repotting in autumn, and then the trees typically are frozen for a couple of weeks. Your climate is definitely more mild than mine.
Kevin1968
Yamadori
@rodeolthr,
I will pull some dirt this weekend. and try to get the roots cleaned up so we can see, and start trimming out the over lappers and broken. need to get it cleaned up to start with. I just noticed the crack in the bark and had some concern. I will take more pics and post during or after this weekend. I also have some branches, I know need to come off to the trunk.
I need to trim the 3 I got from you, still trying to figure them out so much on the top just coming out of the last cut they are good and solid, one has 6 inches of new growth they are quite happy so far.
I will pull some dirt this weekend. and try to get the roots cleaned up so we can see, and start trimming out the over lappers and broken. need to get it cleaned up to start with. I just noticed the crack in the bark and had some concern. I will take more pics and post during or after this weekend. I also have some branches, I know need to come off to the trunk.
I need to trim the 3 I got from you, still trying to figure them out so much on the top just coming out of the last cut they are good and solid, one has 6 inches of new growth they are quite happy so far.
