Japanese Maple Styling

[Scrogdor]

This is a JPM that is still recovering from a shipping mishap, so I'm going to wait until it looks strong to do anything. But was curious on how others would approach this one. Posted some pics, and what I might do.

1) Was thinking about pulling down those two large branches over the fall/winter, looks I think the branch on the right was already in the process of being pulled down before it shipped.

2) Then doing an angled chop on the top. The issue here is, all the possible leaders have been cut, will this cause issues if they aren't the thickness that I need yet?

 

[bwaynef]

1) You're going to have a hard time getting the crotch angles set w/o introducing rainbows/arcs that will distract from the image you're trying to create.
2) I'm not convinced that tree's died back as far as it's going to. Make sure its growing healthy before you start making plans on anything in that upper section of growth.

If you're looking to pull branches down as much as it looks like you are based on the arrows in your picture, I'd cut back to the first node of any of the branches you're hoping to pull down. This will cause buds to pop at the base, and you can choose one of the two to wire into the angle you're hoping for. Before you do that, I'd explore whether you could make something convincing with branches whose first movement is up.

 

[Scrogdor]

1) You're going to have a hard time getting the crotch angles set w/o introducing rainbows/arcs that will distract from the image you're trying to create.
2) I'm not convinced that tree's died back as far as it's going to. Make sure its growing healthy before you start making plans on anything in that upper section of growth.

If you're looking to pull branches down as much as it looks like you are based on the arrows in your picture, I'd cut back to the first node of any of the branches you're hoping to pull down. This will cause buds to pop at the base, and you can choose one of the two to wire into the angle you're hoping for. Before you do that, I'd explore whether you could make something convincing with branches whose first movement is up.

Man I hope it doesnt die back anymore. But..... Yeah, definitely wont be ebaying anymore for bonsai ever again. I'm gonna let it recover over winter and hopefully get a good spring pop. It was just a thought to pull them down, not sure what else to do with them otherwise besides cut them off.

Also just seeing what other ideas people have for this. When I saw it on ebay, I thought it had good potential and it was a decent price point compared to some things I've seen at bonsai nurseries where I live.

 

[Shibui]

Pulling down those branches is an option but not one I would condone. JM can be grown as classic informal upright with sagging branches but that's not really a natural shape for JM. In addition the arc shape you will be able to get on those branches will not even make a good informal upright.

I've moved toward making JM bonsai look like Japanese maples. The natural shape for JM is generally a giant shrub with large branches that sweep up and out so they are almost trunks but the ends swing outward to give the foliage pads we associate with informal upright branches. These trees become a sort of cross between multi trunk and informal upright.
This tree already has a good start with a couple of low branches growing upward. Instead of pulling them down juts take them out away from the main trunk but still going up. As they grow and thicken chop to activate new shoots which will give good changes of direction and much needed TAPER. Gradually build up more and more secondary and tertiary shoots to make up the foliage pad at the end which will sweep outward and horizontal.

Do some online searches for Japanese maple bonsai to find better examples of this style. Meanwhile here are a couple of my primitive attempts so far


The grower has done you a favor chopping the leaders though they have not been cut low enough IMHO. Creating good movement AND taper requires regular and repeated chop and grow. First the trunk then main branches and finally secondary branching. It appears to be the only way to make good looking bonsai.
All the chopped leaders will grow again from lower nodes. They should all grow just as strong as if not cut and will thicken just as much as it they had not been chopped.

I do agree with your treatment of the top of the main trunk. Cut at a fairly steep angle to start the thicker trunk blending naturally into the new leader. Allow the new leader to grow free for a year, maybe even 2 years until the new section looks right then chop again just 1 or 2 nodes higher.

 

[Scrogdor]

Pulling down those branches is an option but not one I would condone. JM can be grown as classic informal upright with sagging branches but that's not really a natural shape for JM. In addition the arc shape you will be able to get on those branches will not even make a good informal upright.

I've moved toward making JM bonsai look like Japanese maples. The natural shape for JM is generally a giant shrub with large branches that sweep up and out so they are almost trunks but the ends swing outward to give the foliage pads we associate with informal upright branches. These trees become a sort of cross between multi trunk and informal upright.
This tree already has a good start with a couple of low branches growing upward. Instead of pulling them down juts take them out away from the main trunk but still going up. As they grow and thicken chop to activate new shoots which will give good changes of direction and much needed TAPER. Gradually build up more and more secondary and tertiary shoots to make up the foliage pad at the end which will sweep outward and horizontal.

Do some online searches for Japanese maple bonsai to find better examples of this style. Meanwhile here are a couple of my primitive attempts so far
View attachment 398659View attachment 398660

The grower has done you a favor chopping the leaders though they have not been cut low enough IMHO. Creating good movement AND taper requires regular and repeated chop and grow. First the trunk then main branches and finally secondary branching. It appears to be the only way to make good looking bonsai.
All the chopped leaders will grow again from lower nodes. They should all grow just as strong as if not cut and will thicken just as much as it they had not been chopped.

I do agree with your treatment of the top of the main trunk. Cut at a fairly steep angle to start the thicker trunk blending naturally into the new leader. Allow the new leader to grow free for a year, maybe even 2 years until the new section looks right then chop again just 1 or 2 nodes higher.

Yeah, I think I like that idea a lot more than bending them down, I can get some thick gage wire and bend them out a little bit, but I doubt I can get an S shape. I'm almost positive this is an air layer, even though the seller said it was not because it has no visible large roots, but instead just a small ball of dense feeders. So I have not checked the nebari yet because I didn't want to disturb it anymore than I already have; just hoping for a nice surprise when I finally do check.