JBP potensai

tanlu

Shohin
Messages
287
Reaction score
13
Location
Washington, DC
USDA Zone
7a
This is my Mikawa JBP and I'm having trouble deciding what to do with it. I'm shying away from a typical informal upright with a zigzag trunk, but it seems like the obvious choice so far. What I want is to create a natural-looking trunk line, something that looks wild, Like Walter Pall's work.

Any ideas are welcome.
 

Attachments

  • DSCF1198.jpg
    DSCF1198.jpg
    91.6 KB · Views: 159
  • DSCF1199.jpg
    DSCF1199.jpg
    112.3 KB · Views: 157

Brian Van Fleet

Pretty Fly for a Bonsai Guy
Messages
13,959
Reaction score
45,886
Location
B’ham, AL
USDA Zone
8A
Here is what I see in this tree; the zig-zag upper portion is not part of the final design for 2 reasons:

1. The trunk starts straight, then has abrupt bends in the top. It is aesthetically more pleasing to repeat lines, form, curves, etc...as the tree ascends. This one starts straight, and should stay straight.

2. The zig-zag upper portion is far too thick and coarse to be final design. This section was meant to be used as sacrifice growth and pruned off later.

ID the branches that are sacrifice (twistie-ties work well) and wire branches that are part of the final design. Let the sacrifice branches grow crazy, and start to build ramification through candle-cutting in the branches that are part of the final design.
 

Attachments

  • Tanlu BP.JPG
    Tanlu BP.JPG
    97 KB · Views: 89

biglou13

Mame
Messages
105
Reaction score
2
Location
ne florida
here's my 2 cents

first of all, all my JPB's are in growing out stage long term projects. larger trunks.....

i have a many with similar characteristics as your tree, and have spent time thinking about their futures.

I.what i saw was chop above first branches, grow out for many years, in larger pot or ground, one of those branches become first bend in trunk. there appears to be subtle movement in trunk below first branches, i'm looking at that for first design direction. you should see how happy trees are that spend time in colander/air pots/smart pots. then go in ground.

II. force some back budding, to try and get some low sacrifice branches for better taper, or more low branches to choose from, re evaluate for design in a few years

brian's advice is sound (as always) and is a quicker end product.

im guessing tree is 5 ish years old, and has spent most time in pots?
 

tanlu

Shohin
Messages
287
Reaction score
13
Location
Washington, DC
USDA Zone
7a
I think I know what to do now.. It's different from what Brian said, but he pointed me in the right direction. I've never been a fan of the sumo trunk pine.

I've decided I'm going to let the remaining branches serve as sacrifice branches, while the numbered ones will become the actual branches. Though I'm not sure when to cut where the "x" is. I read it's best to leave it until the desired thickness is achieved.

I'm also considering whether to plant it at different angle at the next repotting after 3 years.
 

Attachments

  • DSCF1198 - Copy.jpg
    DSCF1198 - Copy.jpg
    92.7 KB · Views: 83

treebeard55

Chumono
Messages
762
Reaction score
88
Location
north-central Indiana, USA
USDA Zone
5A
Your plan has some flow to it, and definitely has internal consistency. As for a change of planting angle, I think a bit more tilt to the camera's left -- just a few degrees -- would enhance it.

Maybe best of all, your own vision for the tree has come into focus. Go for it!

I would leave the sacrifice leader until the trunk is as thick as you want, or very close. Also if it were mine, I'd take off all the sub-branches on that sacrifice and leave just the needles in the last 6-8 inches.
 
Last edited:

tanlu

Shohin
Messages
287
Reaction score
13
Location
Washington, DC
USDA Zone
7a
Your plan has some flow to it, and definitely has internal consistency. As for a change of planting angle, I think a bit more tilt to the camera's left -- just a few degrees -- would enhance it.

Maybe best of all, your own vision for the tree has come into focus. Go for it!

I would leave the sacrifice leader until the trunk is as thick as you want, or very close. Also if it were mine, I'd take off all the sub-branches on that sacrifice and leave just the needles in the last 6-8 inches.

Thanks Treebeard, I would have to agree on the planting angle as well.

I've been following Brent Waltson's articles on JBP as best I can.

I'll cut off the sub branches on the main sacrifice branch next year. I already cut off some unnecessary foliage that would've caused reverse taper, so it may be best to let the tree get back its vigor.

What I want is to get some more girth to the lower trunk. I'll just grow out the lower branches as much as possible. Hopefully the excellent drainage provided by the colander and inorganic bonsai soil will aid that.
 
Top Bottom