KOREAN HORNBEAM DROOPY

[Greenpoint Vince]

Hello all,

I aquired this Korean hornbeam a few months back. Field grown in California. I’m in Brooklyn NY. It put on a good amount of growth at the start of the growing season but lately it’s been looking a little droopy. It’s rained quite a bit this spring so I drilled some holes in the side of the pot to help aeration. I thought placing it in the sun would help but it really did not like that and got even droopier. It’s in a shady spot now with fingers crossed. Any ideas out there?
As always thanks in advance!
Vince

 

[Orion_metalhead]

When was it repotted?

 

[River's Edge]

Hello all,

I aquired this Korean hornbeam a few months back. Field grown in California. I’m in Brooklyn NY. It put on a good amount of growth at the start of the growing season but lately it’s been looking a little droopy. It’s rained quite a bit this spring so I drilled some holes in the side of the pot to help aeration. I thought placing it in the sun would help but it really did not like that and got even droopier. It’s in a shady spot now with fingers crossed. Any ideas out there?
As always thanks in advance!
Vince View attachment 599199

Please outline the steps you have taken since acquiring the tree. Also the location the tree is kept. For example on a balcony or raised deck? What is the exposure to wind? What is the soil mix under the surface? It would appear to be an inorganic mix on the surface.

 

[Greenpoint Vince]

Please outline the steps you have taken since acquiring the tree. Also the location the tree is kept. For example on a balcony or raised deck? What is the exposure to wind? What is the soil mix under the surface? It would appear to be an inorganic mix on

When was it repotted?

I did not repot it. I’m assuming in Jan/febuary

 

[Greenpoint Vince]

Please outline the steps you have taken since acquiring the tree. Also the location the tree is kept. For example on a balcony or raised deck? What is the exposure to wind? What is the soil mix under the surface? It would appear to be an inorganic mix on the surface.

The tree is potted in a mix of 75% perlite and 25% coco peat. I have a thin layer of pumice on top. It lives on my bench with the rest of my deciduous trees. (See pic below) High fence on one side. Faces south and gets about 7-8hrs of sun per day. I’d say it’s get wind only on very windy days. Soon as it starts to get hot hear I will put up 50% shade cloth as I do with all my deciduous trees.

 

[Greenpoint Vince]

The tree is potted in a mix of 75% perlite and 25% coco peat. I have a thin layer of pumice on top. It lives on my bench with the rest of my deciduous trees. (See pic below) High fence on one side. Faces south and gets about 7-8hrs of sun per day. I’d say it’s get wind only on very windy days. Soon as it starts to get hot hear I will put up 50% shade cloth as I do with all my deciduous trees.

 

[Greenpoint Vince]

I should have mentioned I have been fertilizing with an organic fertilizer in tea bags and alternating fish and kelp and root ruckus every 2 weeks.

 

[River's Edge]

Thanks for the additional information. I would suggest that is a very fast draining and relatively dry mix. It would likely require very frequent watering particularly if it was repotted prior to shipping. Hard to know if root recovery was complete prior to shipping. I would inquire with the seller to get a clearer idea of the repotting and transition from field soil timeline.
For your purposes at this point ensure that the tree does not dry out. I would consider shredded sphagnum for the surface to help gauge how fast the pot is drying out. Alternatively I often prefer to just let the pot to get used to how it feels when just thoroughly watered and how it feels when drying out! I am not a fan of perlite and cocoa coir combos so can only suggest monitoring it as closely as possible until you know what may or may not be the history and timeline of the most recent repotting.

 

[Orion_metalhead]

How do you determine watering needs with the different substrate on top and bottom? I agree with Frank's assessment.

 

[MrFancyPlants]

Some sweet trees in your collection, I like the pines, and sure those juniper will be impressive with time.
Do you use a different ratio of coir/perlite for your pines?

I think I’m with frank that it might be a bit dry. And that spaghnum surface dressing might do the trick to perking it up.

On one hand, I want to suggest you upgrade to a boonish mix of Pumice, Akadama etc. But on the other hand I am kind of jealous that you seem to have an economical mix that is working well for your other trees.

Maybe try swapping the perlite for pumice and see how you like it? I like a bit of weight to keep the trees grounded. And it might hold water better?

 

[River's Edge]

Give some consideration to the following information. I am not saying perlite and cocoa coir are bad components. Just difficult to balance and use with some clear disadvantages unless on is used to the combo. I note you acquired the tree in the mix and therefore it may be that your not used to it.

7 Coco Peat Disadvantages: Understanding the Drawbacks

With the discovery of coco coir/peat as a growing medium, coconut empty husk is gathered and processed instead of being disposed of.

cococoirglobal.com

 

[Greenpoint Vince]

Thanks for the additional information. I would suggest that is a very fast draining and relatively dry mix. It would likely require very frequent watering particularly if it was repotted prior to shipping. Hard to know if root recovery was complete prior to shipping. I would inquire with the seller to get a clearer idea of the repotting and transition from field soil timeline.
For your purposes at this point ensure that the tree does not dry out. I would consider shredded sphagnum for the surface to help gauge how fast the pot is drying out. Alternatively I often prefer to just let the pot to get used to how it feels when just thoroughly watered and how it feels when drying out! I am not a fan of perlite and cocoa coir combos so can only suggest monitoring it as closely as possible until you know what may or may not be the history and timeline of the most recent repotting.

Yes I agree about the soil mix. It’s just how the tree came and I didn’t want to mess around with it too much after receiving it. I’ll place in a mix of pumice and akadama early next spring. Good call on the layer of sphagnum. I’ll keep it nice and hydrated. Thanks again!

 

[Greenpoint Vince]

Some sweet trees in your collection, I like the pines, and sure those juniper will be impressive with time.
Do you use a different ratio of coir/perlite for your pines?

I think I’m with frank that it might be a bit dry. And that spaghnum surface dressing might do the trick to perking it up.

On one hand, I want to suggest you upgrade to a boonish mix of Pumice, Akadama etc. But on the other hand I am kind of jealous that you seem to have an economical mix that is working well for your other trees.

Maybe try swapping the perlite for pumice and see how you like it? I like a bit of weight to keep the trees grounded. And it might hold water better?

 

[Greenpoint Vince]

Thanks! For my Pines I use a boons mix of black lava / pumice / akadama. Everything else is in pumice and akadama. The tree came in that soil. Not my choice. I’ll repot next spring for sure. Thanks for your comment!

 

[Greenpoint Vince]

How do you determine watering needs with the different substrate on top and bottom? I agree with Frank's assessment.

The old chopstick method!

 

[MrFancyPlants]

Thanks! For my Pines I use a boons mix of black lava / pumice / akadama. Everything else is in pumice and akadama. The tree came in that soil. Not my choice. I’ll repot next spring for sure. Thanks for your comment!

Cheers, I missed where you had not repotted and I assumed that was your standard mix.
It would be interesting to weigh it to see how much water the mix holds. Informally you could lift it up to get an idea how much water it holds, and if it is drying out too much.

 

[Wood]

My hornbeams (Korean and American) look like that when they've been underwatered or drying out. If it's a lack of water, sun exposure would increase the expiration, which would make it worse -- that's consistent with what you experienced. Have you given it a super deep watering? Maybe dipping/soaking the pot into a bucket of water?

I don't think the perlite/coir mixture is necessarily going to be a problem. Perlite can hold a lot of water, especially with smaller particle sizes, and coir doesn't have the same hydrophobic qualities that peat moss does. Maybe it just needs to be watered a bit more frequently than your other trees?

 

[Orion_metalhead]

Given perlite's tendency to float, dunking is not something id recommend.

 

[River's Edge]

The old chopstick method!

chopstick method does not work with cocoa coir, it often holds moisture more than it provides for the roots. AKA appears moist when the roots Are not being provided for adequately! you can squeeze water out of the cocoa coir but it is not available to the roots. the spaces between are dry..

 

[Greenpoint Vince]

chopstick method does not work with cocoa coir, it often holds moisture more than it provides for the roots. AKA appears moist when the roots Are not being provided for adequately! you can squeeze water out of the cocoa coir but it is not available to the roots. the spaces between are dry..

Thanks again Frank!