Kotohime maintenance
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Leo in N E Illinois
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If you are certain you won't be needing them, yes, you can just rub them off with a thumb or finger, as soon as you see them.
I personally would not get rid of them so fast. In that partial image, I see some of your branches are nearly the same diameter as your trunk. This sameness of diameter is a trait of a shrub, it detracts from tree-like image. You might consider replacing some of your branches with smaller diameter branches. This is a refinement technique. Most bonsai in development have the first set of branches replaced by a later set of branches, These buds could become your replacements if they are in the right locations.. In which case you would let them grow.
So the correct answer is ''maybe'', rub them off is you are certain you won't need them. Let them grow if you are thinking about replacing overy thick, large diameter branches. Do an over all critique of your tree (you can do it private or you can post an whole tree image here.) but look at the tree and see if you need new branches.
I personally would not get rid of them so fast. In that partial image, I see some of your branches are nearly the same diameter as your trunk. This sameness of diameter is a trait of a shrub, it detracts from tree-like image. You might consider replacing some of your branches with smaller diameter branches. This is a refinement technique. Most bonsai in development have the first set of branches replaced by a later set of branches, These buds could become your replacements if they are in the right locations.. In which case you would let them grow.
So the correct answer is ''maybe'', rub them off is you are certain you won't need them. Let them grow if you are thinking about replacing overy thick, large diameter branches. Do an over all critique of your tree (you can do it private or you can post an whole tree image here.) but look at the tree and see if you need new branches.
Rid
Shohin
Thanks. Leo. Ive been advised to leave the main branching intact since it’s such a slow growing tree.
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Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
OK. Koto Hime is a slow growing dwarf JM. Thickening will be slow hence the advice to leave branching intact to get maximum growth. However, there are more factors your advisor may not be aware of. Dwarf JM sprout many buds from the trunk which can cause congestion and eventual dieback (lack of light) as well as reverse taper and the problems Leo has noted.
Dwarf JM are not treated the same as their more vigorous siblings.
You can leave the branches and get maximum thickening at the expense of good lines and taper. You can prune and get better lines at the expense of thickening but I don't know of a way of getting both at once. Ordinary JM cultivars are pinched and pruned to promote ramification. Dwarf vars are thinned to allow light and promote taper.
Back to the original question - to rub off buds? Yes, rub off buds as soon as they are noticed if they are not needed but think again about Leo's advice. I also think this tree would be better if the current branches were replaced at some stage ( not necessarily now)
Dwarf JM are not treated the same as their more vigorous siblings.
You can leave the branches and get maximum thickening at the expense of good lines and taper. You can prune and get better lines at the expense of thickening but I don't know of a way of getting both at once. Ordinary JM cultivars are pinched and pruned to promote ramification. Dwarf vars are thinned to allow light and promote taper.
Back to the original question - to rub off buds? Yes, rub off buds as soon as they are noticed if they are not needed but think again about Leo's advice. I also think this tree would be better if the current branches were replaced at some stage ( not necessarily now)
Leo in N E Illinois
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You are in the Atlanta area, I would definitely connect with the Atlanta Bonsai Society. There are a number of very experienced artists who are generous with their time in your area. Before cutting any major branch off, show your tree to a couple of them, ask their advise. See how their advise compares to mine, and then follow the path that makes the most sense to you.
From the larger photo I see what you mean. Especially below the first branch you should remove any new sprouts. You should consider your design goals for this tree. It is slow growing, so you do style mostly by subtraction, rather than depending on it to grow out what you need in the future. Or if you do plan on adding branches, know that it will take 5 years instead of the 2 that a more rapid growing maple would yield.
I would have 2 goals, short term, keep the tree healthy & growing and enjoy it. This would mean in areas that you are not going to add for the long term, remove small buds and growths. There are areas where you should start keeping some of those small buds, to eventually develop.
Factoid - branches are most visually appealing coming off the trunk at the outside of a curve. Branches tend to look awkward and misplaced coming from the inside of curves.
I drew this quick virtual, remember I only have the one photo to work with. Don't just blindly follow my suggestion. Think about it, get a second or third opinion, then decide what you want to do, don't worry about what I would do.
The green is what I see the tree as a good 5 to 10 years from now. The 2 red marks are on branches I see you removing at some point. You need a branch on the opposite side of the curve your first branch is on. You want branches on the outside of the curved trunk.
So in the approximate areas that are where I show green line branches, I would keep one or two small buds growing, then as they get bigger, reduce the number to the single branch for each green line that is in the best position in real life. *not just for the photo. Those will be your future tree, some 5 or 10 years down the road.
Be aware, that while the trunk is young, it will produce a lot of small buds and small branches. Many. But as the trunk or branch ages, and begins to form bark it will slow down, then stop producing buds. If you let the tree get taller and thicker, removing all these buds, eventually it will stop doing so, and you won't be able to go back and replace overly large diameter branches. So through out the tree, on the outside of curves, plan on keeping at least one or two small buds, as the ''heir and a spare'' replacements branches to be used years ahead as the tree grows.
Just my thought, don't cut anything right away, kick this idea around, and consider other ideas. THen you decide. what pleases your sense of design.
From the larger photo I see what you mean. Especially below the first branch you should remove any new sprouts. You should consider your design goals for this tree. It is slow growing, so you do style mostly by subtraction, rather than depending on it to grow out what you need in the future. Or if you do plan on adding branches, know that it will take 5 years instead of the 2 that a more rapid growing maple would yield.
I would have 2 goals, short term, keep the tree healthy & growing and enjoy it. This would mean in areas that you are not going to add for the long term, remove small buds and growths. There are areas where you should start keeping some of those small buds, to eventually develop.
Factoid - branches are most visually appealing coming off the trunk at the outside of a curve. Branches tend to look awkward and misplaced coming from the inside of curves.
I drew this quick virtual, remember I only have the one photo to work with. Don't just blindly follow my suggestion. Think about it, get a second or third opinion, then decide what you want to do, don't worry about what I would do.
The green is what I see the tree as a good 5 to 10 years from now. The 2 red marks are on branches I see you removing at some point. You need a branch on the opposite side of the curve your first branch is on. You want branches on the outside of the curved trunk.
So in the approximate areas that are where I show green line branches, I would keep one or two small buds growing, then as they get bigger, reduce the number to the single branch for each green line that is in the best position in real life. *not just for the photo. Those will be your future tree, some 5 or 10 years down the road.
Be aware, that while the trunk is young, it will produce a lot of small buds and small branches. Many. But as the trunk or branch ages, and begins to form bark it will slow down, then stop producing buds. If you let the tree get taller and thicker, removing all these buds, eventually it will stop doing so, and you won't be able to go back and replace overly large diameter branches. So through out the tree, on the outside of curves, plan on keeping at least one or two small buds, as the ''heir and a spare'' replacements branches to be used years ahead as the tree grows.
Just my thought, don't cut anything right away, kick this idea around, and consider other ideas. THen you decide. what pleases your sense of design.
Leo in N E Illinois
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A short list of design recommendations. NOTE: these are not rules, just suggestions, known to be visually appealing.
When, or where a trunk has a curve, a branch should originate on the outside of a curve. Branches from the inside of a curve tend to look awkward
Branches should be smaller than 50% the diameter of the trunk they come off of. If the branch is 75% or more of the diameter of the trunk, it destroys the ''image of a tree'', shrubs have branches and trunks all close to the same diameter. You shoot for less than 50% the diameter of the trunk while designing a tree in order to buy your self time as the tree grows. When a branch thickens to close to 75% of the diameter of the trunk, you will need to be replaced with a younger branch. So if you can design the tree with slender branches and a fat trunk the tree will a greater number of years as an exhibit worthy tree. It will look tree like, for a longer period of time.
No segment of a branch should be straight, without curves or branching for a distance longer than 2/3rds the distance between the soil and the first branch. So measure the trunk, looks like it is about 2 inches from the soil to the first branch along that trunk. No branch should extend more than 1.25 inches without either branching again or making a noticeable bend. At each successive level of ramification occurs the next segment is shorter than the immediately preceding segment. This is a little tricky to grasp, and difficult to actually make happen. Every tree will have a branch or two that breaks this guideline, but in the long run, interesting trees more or less follow this. Note, you should actually measure the distance on your tree, don't go with my ''eyeballed number''.
Every branch should have just 2 branches at a node. So the main branch, and one branch or the main branch terminates with two branches going in different directions. Any point you have 3 or more branches, reduce the number to two. This is visually appealing, trees with opposite bud patterns are a pain because they always will have opposite branches, which if they form a horizontal line, becomes a bar branch, something to be avoided. So everywhere you have buds opposite each other developing into branches, cut off one, keep the other.
When, or where a trunk has a curve, a branch should originate on the outside of a curve. Branches from the inside of a curve tend to look awkward
Branches should be smaller than 50% the diameter of the trunk they come off of. If the branch is 75% or more of the diameter of the trunk, it destroys the ''image of a tree'', shrubs have branches and trunks all close to the same diameter. You shoot for less than 50% the diameter of the trunk while designing a tree in order to buy your self time as the tree grows. When a branch thickens to close to 75% of the diameter of the trunk, you will need to be replaced with a younger branch. So if you can design the tree with slender branches and a fat trunk the tree will a greater number of years as an exhibit worthy tree. It will look tree like, for a longer period of time.
No segment of a branch should be straight, without curves or branching for a distance longer than 2/3rds the distance between the soil and the first branch. So measure the trunk, looks like it is about 2 inches from the soil to the first branch along that trunk. No branch should extend more than 1.25 inches without either branching again or making a noticeable bend. At each successive level of ramification occurs the next segment is shorter than the immediately preceding segment. This is a little tricky to grasp, and difficult to actually make happen. Every tree will have a branch or two that breaks this guideline, but in the long run, interesting trees more or less follow this. Note, you should actually measure the distance on your tree, don't go with my ''eyeballed number''.
Every branch should have just 2 branches at a node. So the main branch, and one branch or the main branch terminates with two branches going in different directions. Any point you have 3 or more branches, reduce the number to two. This is visually appealing, trees with opposite bud patterns are a pain because they always will have opposite branches, which if they form a horizontal line, becomes a bar branch, something to be avoided. So everywhere you have buds opposite each other developing into branches, cut off one, keep the other.
Nanuk
Shohin
Interesting discussion as I own one of these myself.
Thanks for the details Leo.
Thanks for the details Leo.
Rid
Shohin
Thank you for your consideration and time!
Darth Masiah
Omono
i would keep these buds from where the 'v' starts on up. for really good trunk taper in your design, you'll eventually have to cut back to these buds to start new leaders, that will probably be the mid branches before the canopy branches start. all the growth above the 'v' where the secondary branches start is just for thickening the lower trunk and the two forks. leo gave a pretty good breakdown. you have to subtract a lot to get a little positive.
Rid
Shohin
I cut this tree back yesterday, and I'm not sure where to go next. I understand that the tree only has a only slight taper on the trunk, but i think im ok with that, since it's a Kotohime.
I'm thinking about taking about the top third off, just above the bar branches.
I'm also thinking about taking the right bar branch off and letting a bud grow out an inch or so above it (and keeping the existing height).
Please let me know if ya'll have any suggestions. thanks
Ridley
I'm thinking about taking about the top third off, just above the bar branches.
I'm also thinking about taking the right bar branch off and letting a bud grow out an inch or so above it (and keeping the existing height).
Please let me know if ya'll have any suggestions. thanks
Ridley
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