Leaf blight on Azalea. Looking for advice on what to use for fungal treatment.

[jandslegate]

I have an Azalea that I've identified as having a fungal infection. I've gone through and removed all the infected leaves I could find. I've moved it to a slightly less shady location and will monitor watering more thoroughly. My question is which to use for treatment out of what I have on hand. I have Immunox, Bioadvanced 3in 1 (the systemic rose one) which saved some trees last year from aphids and Japanese beetles or good old Neem oil. Obviously if none of those are good then I'm open to suggestions. I'd just rather not buy anything else if I don't have to.

I'm running out of daylight and I don't have a picture but I'm pretty confident on the fungal infection. It is a Sweet Sixteen evergreen azalea.

 

[Mellow Mullet]

I have had sucess with daconil and spectrum.

 

[River's Edge]

For fungal infection I prefer the systemic Infuse. The product on the left in the picture below.

 

[jandslegate]

For fungal infection I prefer the systemic Infuse. The product on the left in the picture bel

For fungal infection I prefer the systemic Infuse. The product on the left in the picture below.

Okay so I would have to order Infuse. If I were to do so, would I want to apply something else in the mean time? Would the tree be okay to simply wait? I guess I've been lucky until now in that I haven't had this happen. This season has been awesome for new ailments on the trees. All part of the experience.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Be safe!

If it’s not pervasive, One can spray 2 TBSP/QT 3% H2O2 on the affected leaves until the fungicide is available. If it’s pervasive, that’s another story….

Just wondering. A key question might be what was the cause of the fungal infection?

Also, what is the fungus that was identified and how was it identified?. This would be really helpful for others here to know.

cheers
DSD sends

 

[jandslegate]

Be safe!

If it’s not pervasive, One can spray 2 TBSP/QT 3% H2O2 on the affected leaves until the fungicide is available. If it’s pervasive, that’s another story….

Just wondering. A key question might be what was the cause of the fungal infection?

Also, what is the fungus that was identified and how was it identified?. This would be really helpful for others here to know.

cheers
DSD sends

Oh yeah, sorry. Pale leaf color, white thick growth almost like styrofoam on some leaf tips. I dug it up earlier this spring and put it in a grow box and I over protected it, basically. I had it in a spot that wasn't getting enough sun and I think I may have been over watering it. First time I took an Azalea from ground development to a box, so a learning experience. I think (hope) I removed all of the infected leaves but if I find more I'll post pictures. I didn't mean to seem headstrong about 'knowing' what was wrong but I looked up the care guide from bonsai empire and it was exactly as described there. I don't necessarily know what specific fungus just that signs of blight were present but caught before browning and that the blight is apparently caused by a fungal infection likely caused by too much moisture.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Thanks for the information. If I had a nickel for every time I messed up a tree, I’d likely have a lot of really nice pots!

Moving an azalea out of the ground into a new environment can be tricky. It’s this transition when I’ve lost almost all azaleas that don’t make it. Many other folks have reported the same here.

Hopefully it’s just a topside surface issue and things settle down for this guy.

Good Luck and Cheers!
DSD sends

 

[JudyB]

For fungal infection I prefer the systemic Infuse. The product on the left in the picture below.

I've been using the Bayer product for years on most if not all my trees with great results as a preventative. Never had a fungal problem after I started using this, I never have to daconil anymore.

 

[Glaucus]

Sounds like leaf gall. I have been spraying some azaleas with tebuconazole (Bayer Rosacur). Still a bit worried that this systemic fungicide on the leaves can burn them when it all dries up and there is bright sun.
But I mainly want to ward off petal blight. You probably do not want to put significant amounts of fungicide in the soil/roots.

 

[River's Edge]

Okay so I would have to order Infuse. If I were to do so, would I want to apply something else in the mean time? Would the tree be okay to simply wait? I guess I've been lucky until now in that I haven't had this happen. This season has been awesome for new ailments on the trees. All part of the experience.

I do not tend to mix treatments. I based my recommendation solely on your diagnosis without pictures that would convert a better sense of the situation. Therefore your judgement call.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

if other fungicudes are contemplated, H2O2 can be used as an interim treatment. It’s not persistent, breaking down into water and oxygen.

Totallyagree with @River's Edge . Mixing treatments is never a good idea. See below for all folks on this thread

How about posting a photo just for info?

Sorry in advance if the below is interpreted as stepping on this thread.

Bonide Infuse is an effective treatment if used properly. It is also an inhalation hazard, especially when repeated. It is also a Level 1A Carcinogen.
So please be safe. Repeat exposures heightens the hazard.

After reading the SDS’s of the hazardous chemicals often mentioned for bonsai use and the frequency mentioned from a professional’s standpoint. It’s of no value for me to say avoid using these hazardous chemicals to folks reliant on them, especially for years.

So I’ll just say this, Get proper PPE and use it each time. Here’s a short list of basic guidelines

• Respirator with proper cartridges, cleaned and cartridges changed regularly
• Proper safety goggles - cleaned regularly
• Nitrile gloves - dispose of after use
• appropriate clothing, long sleeves, long pants minimum
• Closed toe shoes or boots
• Store all hazardous chemicals properly - out of reach, cool, in secondary containment and if possible locked up
• Dispose of waste, old or unused hazardous chemicals properly

Not sure what product @JudyB uses, but that’s easy to look up.

Best
DSD sends

 

[jandslegate]

if other fungicudes are contemplated, H2O2 can be used as an interim treatment. It’s not persistent, breaking down into water and oxygen.

Totallyagree with @River's Edge . Mixing treatments is never a good idea. See below for all folks on this thread

How about posting a photo just for info?

Sorry in advance if the below is interpreted as stepping on this thread.

Bonide Infuse is an effective treatment if used properly. It is also an inhalation hazard, especially when repeated. It is also a Level 1A Carcinogen.
So please be safe. Repeat exposures heightens the hazard.

After reading the SDS’s of the hazardous chemicals often mentioned for bonsai use and the frequency mentioned from a professional’s standpoint. It’s of no value for me to say avoid using these hazardous chemicals to folks reliant on them, especially for years.

So I’ll just say this, Get proper PPE and use it each time. Here’s a short list of basic guidelines

• Respirator with proper cartridges, cleaned and cartridges changed regularly
• Proper safety goggles - cleaned regularly
• Nitrile gloves - dispose of after use
• appropriate clothing, long sleeves, long pants minimum
• Closed toe shoes or boots
• Store all hazardous chemicals properly - out of reach, cool, in secondary containment and if possible locked up
• Dispose of waste, old or unused hazardous chemicals properly

Not sure what product @JudyB uses, but that’s easy to look up.

Best
DSD sends

I have some of what Judy uses. I have had decent success with it mainly for pests. Just wasn't sure about it. I removed the infected puffy leaves but I found one lying on the ground that I missed. Here's a few pictures of it at the moment.

 

[Glaucus]

The puffy growth is indeed azalea leaf gall. When they turn white they are sporulating. You always get some when the weather is humid and the sun isn't too bright. So in spring and autumn, usually.
I guess a systemic fungicide used as prevention will limit them.
You can also pinch out the abnormal growth before it becomes white. And once the weather heats up, they will stop appearing. It is very limiting. But annoying when you see a huge tumor and imagine how that could have been a nice fresh green hsoot.

The veininess is chlorosis caused by a nutrient deficiency, either caused by a lack of nutrients in the soil. Or an inability of the roots of taking them up.
It can be addressed by a mild and dilute treatment using fertilizer and/or chelated iron. But also a lot of patience. It will only go away slowly.