New Trident
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Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
Typically...the narrower trunk is shorter.
I'll be eaten alive by my next comment. Yet...it was solid guidance when I began...that I still use. Which is. Study that style. Save images that appeal to you. Then study those and see if anything can be applied to your material.
When I made my mini forest. I studied layouts of forests...saved ones I liked and did process of elimination until I was down to one placement to go off of. I get a lot of compliments on that mini forest. I didn't throw trees together. I did my homework...and used that layout as a guideline. End of the day...it shows.
Best of luck to ya.
I'll be eaten alive by my next comment. Yet...it was solid guidance when I began...that I still use. Which is. Study that style. Save images that appeal to you. Then study those and see if anything can be applied to your material.
When I made my mini forest. I studied layouts of forests...saved ones I liked and did process of elimination until I was down to one placement to go off of. I get a lot of compliments on that mini forest. I didn't throw trees together. I did my homework...and used that layout as a guideline. End of the day...it shows.
Best of luck to ya.
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
Nice trunk to start out with! Looks like a fun project.
@Cadillactaste - Seems like awfully solid advice to me?
Only items that jump out for me (both are pretty obvious)
- the nebari needs definite work.
- the secondary and primary trunks need shortening.
Cheers
DSD sends
@Cadillactaste - Seems like awfully solid advice to me?
Only items that jump out for me (both are pretty obvious)
- the nebari needs definite work.
- the secondary and primary trunks need shortening.
Cheers
DSD sends
Not sure why anyone would give you grief for this comment - Frankly, I think it's great advice.
Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
Oh...yeah. One rode me on that advice here actually. I chalk it up to...I'm not for everyone...and the one was trying to talk down to me. I don't get it often. But occasionally... people do make me laugh. Because...I offer advice that I personally use and apply to my own bonsai. I found it sound guidance given to me by one highly respected...so... I shrug it off. But since the one came at me here. I'm prepared for the same stance. I'll stand on my advice. As you say... its sound.
Thanks for your input.
misfit11
Omono
I agree. Narrower sub-trunk is usually shorter. It's the same thing that would happen in nature. The dominant trunk is usually thicker and taller.
misfit11
Omono
I would chop where I've drawn the red line. You should get buds popping at the node indicated by the green dot.
The branch, as it is, has zero taper and zero movement. This is called a "stove pipe" in bonsai and is not desirable. If it were mine, I'd chop down the right-hand trunk a bit as well. I'd probably cut at the blue line, and make that smaller branch the new leader. Just my two cents...
P.S. cut back hard on those big roots before you pot it up. Tridents make roots really well. You can be pretty merciless with root work and they won't miss a beat
The branch, as it is, has zero taper and zero movement. This is called a "stove pipe" in bonsai and is not desirable. If it were mine, I'd chop down the right-hand trunk a bit as well. I'd probably cut at the blue line, and make that smaller branch the new leader. Just my two cents...
P.S. cut back hard on those big roots before you pot it up. Tridents make roots really well. You can be pretty merciless with root work and they won't miss a beat
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Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
Excellent advice above.
Definitely needs to be cut down. Need to remember that trees almost always grow up after a chop so the bonsai will be at least half as big again, usually more than that when you develop branches and apex. That will make a bonsai from 24-36 inches tall. The current trunk/height ratio appears to be good at around 1:4 but the trunk will look really skinny on a taller tree.
The blue line above would be a great chop if the current back would be OK as a front - and that smaller branch at the rear is viable (it appears to have a couple of live shoots but something not quite right about the bark colour). Otherwise you'll be looking right at a big scar on the front of the tree for many years if this side is to be the front.
With luck you will get some new shoots from the front side of the trunk that could be grown as a new leader with a chop sloping away from the viewing side.
FWIW here's where I'd probably cut those roots.
BTW< what's going on with the trident in the background (circled blue). It appears to be sitting in a burnt area? Reject? Overgrown grass burnt off to get at the trees? Rechecking the other photos it now appears there's a row of chopped tridents in that area.
Definitely needs to be cut down. Need to remember that trees almost always grow up after a chop so the bonsai will be at least half as big again, usually more than that when you develop branches and apex. That will make a bonsai from 24-36 inches tall. The current trunk/height ratio appears to be good at around 1:4 but the trunk will look really skinny on a taller tree.
The blue line above would be a great chop if the current back would be OK as a front - and that smaller branch at the rear is viable (it appears to have a couple of live shoots but something not quite right about the bark colour). Otherwise you'll be looking right at a big scar on the front of the tree for many years if this side is to be the front.
With luck you will get some new shoots from the front side of the trunk that could be grown as a new leader with a chop sloping away from the viewing side.
FWIW here's where I'd probably cut those roots.
BTW< what's going on with the trident in the background (circled blue). It appears to be sitting in a burnt area? Reject? Overgrown grass burnt off to get at the trees? Rechecking the other photos it now appears there's a row of chopped tridents in that area.
On the blue cut are you saying to cut larger trunk leaving smaller one to achieve taper at top? Also red cut do you think I’ll get plenty of buds were you say to cut it?I would chop where I've drawn the red line. You should get buds popping at the node indicated by the green dot.
The branch, as it is, has zero taper and zero movement. This is called a "stove pipe" in bonsai and is not desirable. If it were mine, I'd chop down the right-hand trunk a bit as well. I'd probably cut at the blue line, and make that smaller branch the new leader. Just my two cents...
View attachment 582050
P.S. cut back hard on those big roots before you pot it up. Tridents make roots really well. You can be pretty merciless with root work and they won't miss a beat
WNC Bonsai
Masterpiece
Start saving now for a pot big enough!
misfit11
Omono
Yes and yes. Where I drew the green dot is a node. You should get plenty of back budding there.
Remember to seal all of your cuts.
@Shibui gives great advice on cutting those roots (and in general). After you cut them, bury them in the soil. You'll get new roots forming further back. This is how you improve the nebari.
This can be a very nice tree. Good choice of raw stock.
Remember to seal all of your cuts.
@Shibui gives great advice on cutting those roots (and in general
). After you cut them, bury them in the soil. You'll get new roots forming further back. This is how you improve the nebari.This can be a very nice tree. Good choice of raw stock.
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Yah it got a wide nabari.
I’ve been looking, and studying this tree, I think I want to do it in a more natural style. I’ve been looking at Walter Pall and the way he styles trees. What are your thoughts
Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
I have a question, I have a few trident seedlings and was wanting to do a few root grafts to the back of the tree is it ok to do it now or should I wait till next year?
Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
I would defer that question to @MACH5 . It was a collected tree from ground growing... assuming shipped to you. And potted up..I personally have not done them... so I can not advise. But my gerbil spins on the one history of it being collected from ground growing. Or...maybe I'm just assuming. But I wonder if it were. If it needs to recover. Tagged Sergio... because I trust his advise and he's done them.
Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
No problem doing root grafts now. In fact, I'd say now is better than next year because it is already bare root. Doing your grafts now will save having to bare root again next Spring.
Are you planning approach graft or thread graft?
Are you planning approach graft or thread graft?
I think you may be misinterpreting any advice I've given. No problem chopping roots. Burying chopped roots is correct and probably a no brainer but my experience is that more than 90% of new roots emerge from the cut ends. Very few from further back, which is why I always advise cut where you want new roots instead of cutting longer and hoping.@Shibui gives great advice on cutting those roots (and in general
Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
Just for learning. When we typically collect trees. We allow them to recover. This tree was ground grown...and collected by the looks of it. So...that doesn't apply here to allow it to recover? Again...I'm just wishing to understand. It looks to be out among other field grown trees. With the sellers images first added.
Thanks that helps a lot, and helps to understand why it should be cut as far back as they say.
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