How does my new Trident Maple look?

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I'm just a few months into learning and taking care of bonsai trees. My indoor dwarf jade plant looks to be doing great but I think I'm struggling a bit with my outdoor trident maple. It has a lot of droopy and yellow/red leaves. I'm struggling to tell if I'm overwatering or underwatering it and if it's getting too much or too little sunlight. I'm in Georgia and it's generally pretty hot and humid in the summer. I water the soil once a day based on what I've seen online. I have an electronic moisture meter and it seems to be accurate with my dwarf jade but when I put it in the maple pot it says 10% moisture even though I watered it maybe an hour before. Any thoughts, tips?


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You could stick a chop stick in soil. This helps the see how wet soils really is. Other option is to compare weight of watered vs more dry to see how it is. Looks fairly healthy to me but couple leafs lighter. Assume your fertilizing ona regular schedule?
 
Those moisture meters are designed to be reasonably accurate in garden soil but they can't read the coarse particles and larger spaces in bonsai soil accurately and usually read much drier than it actually is. More accurate to use your finger or a wooden chopstick or skewer.
How often to water depends on a whole range of factors - how much sun, daily temps, soil type, pot size, tree size, species, ambient humidity, etc, etc. I water twice a day through most of Summer but that's with daytime temps close to 100F, humidity in the teens and relatively open soil mix. Many people can get away with once a day but much better to test the soil before watering.
If in doubt, remember that a tree can die from underwatering in a few hours. It takes weeks and weeks of overwatering to kill a tree.

I'm struggling a bit with my outdoor trident maple. It has a lot of droopy and yellow/red leaves.
I'm not seeing droopy leaves in the photo.
Red leaves at the tips is normal. Most trident maple leaves open up reddish but soon change to green as the leaves mature.
New leaves also tend to hang down until they start to harden up so that may be what's making you think droopy? If you see the last section of the branch hanging down that's droopy from dehydration and needs quick attention.

The yellow leaves are cause for concern. Yellow leaves is typical of nutrient deficiency. Yellow can indicate Nitrogen, Iron, Magnesium or Manganese deficiency. Yellow leaves with green veins is called chlorosis. If it's in older leaves it usually means Nitrogen or Magnesium because plants can take those nutrients from older leaves and give to the new ones. Healthy older leaves but newer leaves affected means Iron or Manganese because they cannot be moved from older tissues.
As it appears to be younger leaves affected it is very likely your plant is showing Iron deficiency. That can be cause in 2 different ways - 1. Alkaline soil means available Iron cannot be absorbed by the roots, 2. Not enough Iron in the soil.
1 is the most common. Most tap water is adjusted to be alkaline so the water doesn't corrode pipes. The alkaline water makes the soil alkaline and plants can't get at the Iron in your fertiliser.
Treatment: Try chelated iron as directed on the pack. It has iron but is also slightly acid to help balance the soil.
Longer term, try using an acidifying fertiliser like Miracid which feeds the plant and also helps adjust soil acidity.

If you haven't been fertilising regularly you should start. Frequent watering washes nutrients out of the pot so we need to add fertiliser much more regularly than most other gardening.
 
Thank you all for the information. I'm unsure of what the soil is as it's just in the soil it came with from Brussel's Bonsais. Would you recommend repotting it with some soil that I know what is in it? I was concerned with repotting it and wasn't sure if that was a safe idea since it is a newer tree. Fertilizing I am doing once every two weeks.

@Shibui @ianmcglocklin @stubmle @Jrmcmich
 
Brussels soil is mostly hadite and bark, very retentive and good for the care of that enormous nursery, but not great for long-term.

However, repotting out of season is typically a recipe for disaster, so you would be better off learning how frequently to water in the current conditions and get through until spring when you can safely do a proper repot.
 
Do not repot now in the heat of summer, it looks fine.

Just water when the soil dries slightly and not on a schedule, most plants actually stop using water when temps are consistently above 90
 
Brussels soil is mostly hadite and bark, very retentive and good for the care of that enormous nursery, but not great for long-term.,
I have purchased from them and certainly can't complain about the health of the trees when I received them. However, although their soil works in their temperature controlled greenhouses, it didn't work well here. I repotted everything from them as soon as it was safe to do so, depending on the tree.
 
As above. Tridents are tough but repotting involves root damage and Summer is not a good time for that.
Just monitor soil moisture and water according to soil moisture, not by days. The nursery was able to keep these trees alive and healthy in that soil. So can you if you try, at last until the next repotting time which will probably be early Spring.

Fertilizing I am doing once every two weeks.
Most fert should be supplying adequate trace elements which leaves high pH as the probable cause of the leaf chlorosis. Try some Chelated Iron and see whether that helps in short term. Investigate your water pH and look for an acidifying fertiliser to help counteract the high pH water.

BTW, please add your location to your personal profile. It's a pain having to scroll back to see what you put in the first post so we can try to work out what time of year is OK for different tasks like repotting.
 
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