North American Beech, Fagus grandifolia 2 years after collection, and getting some thread grafts

[KevinY]

I collected this Beech two years ago in April. At that time the tops were completely cut off, and all the branches are new. Amazingly, there was no die back, and new leaders grew at the cut points out of inner cambium, and not from former branch locations. This is something I've never seen before, but I've since topped other beeches and all have responded in this way. The challenge with collecting beech comes from the fact that most beech, unless grown from a nut, tend to be connected through heavy long roots to a much larger parent tree. Because of this they have very few feeder roots, if any, to keep them alive after collection. I found this clump growing on its own roots, and it was easy to collect, and it has adjusted very well to container life. Beech definitely have an important relationship with mycorrhizae in the soil, so never bare root a beech.
The North American Beech are not often used or recommended for bonsai due to their large leaves and long internodes, but since collection, leaves have remained small, and internodes have been extremely tight. I'm assuming that there are techniques which could be implemented to reduce this further, or continue growing it at this current state.
I'm not sure if any members in the society have played around with beech for bonsai (I don't recall seeing any), but please post a pic if you have one, or offer your advice for their care and bonsai cultivation.
Where branches are needed along the trunk, I've decided to dill holes directly through the trunk, and thread long branches through (thread grafting). This technique is a very easy and safe method of obtaining new branches in exactly the right location. The grafts, which are still alive, will continue to grow, along with the drilled holes, forming new callus, and eventually fusing together, and becoming a new branches.

 

[AJL]

Hi for comparision heres a European beech I attempted to graft to improve the nebari . The thread graft took well but the approach graft never took

 

[AJL]

 

[Lifaholic]

Question about grafts. I haven't done any yet. What are the signs you look for to see if a graft has taken. Is it the same for all trees?
Thanks!

 

[KevinY]

Hi Lifaholic (I feel like I might know you?!),

Not all species can be thread grafted, but most flexible twig/branch deciduous trees can be grafted this way, although some trees that naturally recess away from wounds would be difficult too. You need to seal with cut paste to avoid this. I have seen people use this technique using the candles of pines before the needle start to break away, slipping the candle through a hole instead of the full branch.

Depending on the growth rate of the species, the size or the hole compared to the size of the twig (holes might need to be drilled larger for species that develop large buds that would need to pass through without injuring them), and sunlight, usually within a year or two the graft will merge. You will know this when the swelling new branch (not just the base coming out of the hole) becomes much larger than the original twig/branch going into the tree. This indicates that the tree is now directly feeding the new branch and not the original mother twig/branch.

Some people , slowly remove the mother branch over the next season, I usually just cut it off in one go and I haven't had any issues with losing a graft. It is however important to let that branch grow unchecked as it's taking, as you would a sacrificial branch, and cut back that branch at the same time you remove it's original mother branch, this will limit the amount of water needed to sustain it after separation.

 

[Lifaholic]

Hi Lifaholic (I feel like I might know you?!),

Not all species can be thread grafted, but most flexible twig/branch deciduous trees can be grafted this way, although some trees that naturally recess away from wounds would be difficult too. You need to seal with cut paste to avoid this. I have seen people use this technique using the candles of pines before the needle start to break away, slipping the candle through a hole instead of the full branch.

Depending on the growth rate of the species, the size or the hole compared to the size of the twig (holes might need to be drilled larger for species that develop large buds that would need to pass through without injuring them), and sunlight, usually within a year or two the graft will merge. You will know this when the swelling new branch (not just the base coming out of the hole) becomes much larger than the original twig/branch going into the tree. This indicates that the tree is now directly feeding the new branch and not the original mother twig/branch.

Some people , slowly remove the mother branch over the next season, I usually just cut it off in one go and I haven't had any issues with losing a graft. It is however important to let that branch grow unchecked as it's taking, as you would a sacrificial branch, and cut back that branch at the same time you remove it's original mother branch, this will limit the amount of water needed to sustain it after separation.

Hi KevinY, we do know each other Haha
I thought of asking my question here before I forget it

Thanks for the info! I might give it a try this year!

 

[AnthonyB]

I love beech trees for their bark and sinuous, muscular looking trunks. Great thinking about the thread grafting from the neighbouring stems. Since they are likely genetically identical, you won't risk having disparity of leaf colour or size.

A few years ago I bought some nursery stock but pruned it into oblivion unfortunately, have not tried again since (although see my thread on nothofagus as I have pursued other similarly looking trees with smaller leaves). My understanding is that North American beech are usually cultivated as bonsai for display when they are dormant or in bud, putting a premium on structure, ramification and minimizing imperfection in the bark?

I love the nebari on the main trunk on the left. Would it work to bend and bury some of the basal branches on the foreground trunk to turn them into roots for that one? If you could develop nebari on that side it would help to balance the design.

I have several vigorous columnar beech in my back yard that I have had to trim back hard over the years. I'm wondering if I have missed opportunities to air layer branches to create a Beech forest. The nice thing about the columnar variant is that you get movement in a fairly short stem length which might make it useable from a bonsai perspective.

 

[AnthonyB]

Oh and if you want some #bonspo for your beeches, have a look at the pic I posted in another thread of these insanely sculpted, mature beeches. Snapped the pic in the Bridlepath ...

 

[Bonsai butcher]

This is my beech, I’m trying to grow it out and develop better ramification, but a smaller pot for the last few years held it back a bit. I only get one flush and have had trouble timing the pruning. This year, looking for vigor and more pruning options for next year and more branch division. Tough plant for the cold though not fond of heat, loves lots of water. Anyone tried pinching new growth to restrain them early in the season? When I did that, it never flushed again and mine was weaker for it, branches lost.

 

[Forrestford]

How are your thread grafts doing?