Oddly specific question about wiring tree into pot

penumbra

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They make them as small as 3/16” inch, which I think is what I used for tie down holes the last time I drilled a pot. But, certainly, there’s more than one way to git ‘r done. Mainly, I was suggesting the diamond hole saw bit over masonry bits because they’re less likely to break the pot in the process of adding a hole. Also more likely to make a nice clean cut.
Yeah, masonry bits are brutal.
Didn't realize they made them as small as 3/16 for non lapidary use. Things have changed a lot over the years. When I made jewelry a 3/16 was available but cost $30+.
 

just.wing.it

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Yeah the diamond hole saw bits are key. Milwaukee makes them in very small sizes.
I've successfully drilled several pots with the 1/4 inch one.
 

Deep Sea Diver

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Over here I’ve successfully drilled at least 30 pots with diamond hole saws, for drainage and for wiring. Having drain holes out in the Incersion area of Puget sound is a real plus.

I started out using the putty dam after reading @River's Edge post on this method. However over time I went two other ways to lubricate the bit. This method is straightforward and used for pots with trees inside. I only use it in the case I don’t want to pull the tree out. I have another person with a spray bottle constantly spray the drill sit while I drill.

The second method is my own. One takes a tub of water, then places chocks of wood directly inside the pot where drilling through for internal support. Then flip the pot over and position it underwater so it’s submerged 1/4-1/2”. Tilt the bit to score the pot when first drilling. Then shift the bit to 90” degrees on the pot surface.

Only cautions is that one should use a battery powered drill and easy pressure in the final stages of drilling so as not to blow out the interior part of the pot.

51D7DA63-84D9-4046-9DD5-49C7EDFFA649.jpeg

Ok, this is a hot button issue so I’m gonna go up on the proverbial soapbox, so please skip this part if you so desire. It’s also a bit of a birdwalk, so I apologize in advance to @One First Matter All

While I would drill any pot with poor drainage with confidence, even expensive ones, I’m absolutely not a pot aficionado (in either meaning of the phase). I feel buying an expensive, or ancient, pot that looks good with poor drainage is just a waste of money. Others my differ or even try to compensate with a large drain layer... not a long term solution imho.

As an alternate means to avoid drilling to assure drainage, my purchases are restricted to pots with large drain holes and decent side wire/drain holes.…. with no pooling on the bottom of the pot caused by poor design/firing. (I learned this the hard way in just three years - slow learner 😏). This often means buying newer pots. In fact this design criteria has been suggested to a number of potters in the last year.

I’ve done a couple commissions lately. Each has drainage criteria specified. Luckily a good number of potters like Vicki Chamberlien, Matt Borst and @sorce are well on top of these design feature.

Ok, I‘m done. thanks for your forbearance!
cheers
DSD sends
 

River's Edge

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I have a bonsai pot with one drainage hole in the bottom. I plan to repot a tree into this pot (in the spring), and I would like for the tree to be wired off-center.

I know how to wire a tree into a pot with only one drainage hole, but I do not know how to wire a tree with only one drainage hole so that the tree is not positioned directly over the hole. I am afraid that, as I tighten the wire to secure the tree in place, with the fulcrum point being directly over the hole, it will "draw" the tree toward the center, if that makes sense. Any suggestions on how to prevent that from happening?
take a straight section of larger gauge copper wire lay above the screen protruding equal distance opposite sides. Wire this to the straight section you would normally use under the pot with a single hole tie. The longer straight section on top can be positioned to mount the tie wires needed to off centre the pot.
 
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