Opinion on basic work for few trees

[maroun.c]

Few trees, of no necessary great value i worked on last week. Appreciate opinions on what I did right or wrong and how to proceed with those trees.
Tree 1 8s a small size funkien tree i want to develop few branches with evident branches motion that match the motion in the trunk
Pre

Post



Tree 2 is a thick trunk little olive.
Unfortunately base looks nicest with chop at the front.
Planing to develop in a true to style broom like olive that matches the thick trunk and that hides the big chop. Reduced the branches as I'm not getting new branches and branches were getting long and straigh and thicker than I can easily wire. Weordly olives proved to be tricky to bend as many branches broke or tore in the process


Tree 3 is another olive. This one has some dead wood feature. Again only for branches 2 on each of the double trunk. Hoping i get a few more to develop a dominant apex on higher trunk as well as a smaller top on the secondary left trunk. Couldn't bend the branches more as they were brittle. Hoping I get back budding on them to reduce the straight long portions as well as develop ramifications.


Tree 4
Another olive , missing few more branches but still OK to develop a triangular shape already.

 

[maroun.c]

Tree5
A Chinese elm with barked straight trunk, thinking broom with little motion to go inline with trunk shape


Tree 6
Cotton Easter with an interesting trunk but straight upper sections. Have some backbudding so cut it back hard and hopefully can shorten more and develop new apex.


Tree 7
Cedrus lebani, repoted last year and did well but few months back lost few branches while others grew... cleaned up bottom and upper growth and reduced few triple branches to twos dodnt do much as I'm still waiting for anterior growth to compact the tree as well.as develop a lower branch to the front so I can take.out the top that goes back then comes back to the front

 

[ShadyStump]

I love the dead wood on the second olive- your trees 3. I can tell you're no expert at wiring yet, but you're still better at it than I am.
Your cedar looks beautiful. I wood love to have one of my own some day.

 

[Shibui]

I think the pruning looks good. Pruning forces new shoots to grow and that results in better ramification - in time. Sometimes it may seem to be going backwards but is actually a step forwards on a better path to bonsai.

 

[Bonsai Nut]

Is your water really alkaline? Do you know the pH?

 

[maroun.c]

Y

Is your water really alkaline? Do you know the pH?

Yes we do have alkaline water here. Whats the tell sign ? Will it cause issues ?

 

[HorseloverFat]

Al

Y
Yes we do have alkaline water here. Whats the tell sign ? Will it cause issues ?

Alkaline water, High PH will cause problems as your root cells try to absorb necessary nutrients for survival and vigor...

The tell is Chlorosis... or i’ve heard cases of browning/darkening of leaves also, which was THOUGHT to be due to alkaline water.

 

[maroun.c]

Do u see chlorosis on my trees ?
Should I water with Reverse osmosis water or other? Any trees more sensible to hard water ?

 

[Bonsai Nut]

Y
Yes we do have alkaline water here. Whats the tell sign ? Will it cause issues ?

Normally, it would present itself with chlorosis - typically a yellowing of the leaves due to iron and manganese deficiency because the water pH is too high so that the tree struggles to assimilate iron and manganese even if there is plenty in the soil.

However I could tell based on the mineral deposits on your leaves and the surface of your soil.

If you have access to RO water, that would be great. However if you can't water with RO water, consider using an acidifying fertilizer (it will usually be called garden sulfur, or else a fertilizer with sulfur added). Also, make sure that when you water you really saturate the soil so that you are rinsing the water through the pot... then wait until the soil is almost dry before you water again. If you water lightly, over and over, it is easy to accumulate excess minerals and salts in your soil - where you will see it as a white crust on your soil particles or on the tops of your plant roots.

Many native Mediterranean species will have moderate to high salt tolerance and will usually tolerate alkaline water. Olives and cork oaks come to mind. However there are also other species that might surprise you - for example Japanese Black Pine has high salt tolerance and does well in alkaline soil conditions. So just check beforehand. Chinese elm also has moderate salt tolerance and tolerates a wide range of soil conditions.

 

[HorseloverFat]

Normally, it would present itself with chlorosis - typically a yellowing of the leaves due to iron and manganese deficiency because the water pH is too high so that the tree struggles to assimilate iron and manganese even if there is plenty in the soil.

However I could tell based on the mineral deposits on your leaves and the surface of your soil.

If you have access to RO water, that would be great. However if you can't water with RO water, consider using an acidifying fertilizer (it will usually be called garden sulfur, or else a fertilizer with sulfur added). Also, make sure that when you water you really saturate the soil so that you are rinsing the water through the pot... then wait until the soil is almost dry before you water again. If you water lightly, over and over, it is easy to accumulate excess minerals and salts in your soil - where you will see it as a white crust on your soil particles or on the tops of your plant roots.

Remember on slingblade.. when he walks over to the “puzzled about” broken mower.... looks in.. and says, “It ain’t got no gas in there!”..

That’s how I just felt.. I was looking at those pictures SO hard for chlorosis..... “Bonsai Nut SAID alkaline water, based on pictures, so theres GOTTA be some chlorosis SOMEWHERE!”..

Greg walks over.. “You got some mineral deposits on your leaves and soil there!”

 

[maroun.c]

Tree 3 is another olive. This one has some dead wood feature. Again only for branches 2 on each of the double trunk. Hoping i get a few more to develop a dominant apex on higher trunk as well as a smaller top on the secondary left trunk. Couldn't bend the branches more as they were brittle. Hoping I get back budding on them to reduce the straight long portions as well as develop ramifications.
View attachment 393484View attachment 393485

An update on this tree from last pics in Aug 2021 so nearly a year later. Tree was unwired abd wired 2 times so far and each time ended with few scars as u can see in pics on few locations where I hope tree will grow and hide the scars. I just unwired it and pruned again today.
Although in a small pot tree seems to be growing fast and brancges thickening fast as well. I placed the initial branches in position i wanted , and let the branches run twice so far till 12 plus leaves and reduced to 2-4 leaves to get bifurcations, which worked a bit.
I unfortunately still need more branches from other areas on trunk as all growth is from two branches on each of the main trunks. I got a new branch at same location marked by red arrow, should I remove to avoid further swelling or leave it to grow for now. How about the pruning any recommendations ?
I'm continuing fertilizing heavy and pruning every 2-3 months. Amy other thing you recommend ?

 

[Shibui]

I would definitely remove that new shoot. The other branches are good so no need for a replacement and it will definitely thicken that spot if allowed to grow larger.

Olives can still only bud from existing nodes so it the branch you've chosen for the new trunk has long internodes you will struggle to get more shoots but maybe you don't need them. It looks bare now but as those existing branches grow, ramify and become dense they should fill the spaces well.
I've found olives frustratingly slow to develop good ramification on new branches, especially in the beginning. The best I can offer is to persist with the current approach. It will take time but it will happen and, as ramification starts to develop, it happens faster.