Plum Air Layer Question

Damage Inc

Sapling
Messages
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Location
Maple Ridge, BC Canada
USDA Zone
8b
I have a plum tree I picked up last summer that was in development which I have done nothing to since acquiring. I believe it is a Prunus Salicina. From the pics you can see the previous owner had made some chops and directional pruning but you can also see that super long and super straight trunk. So I think it's air layer time once the leaves harden off.

The previous owner also mentioned they had either air layered sections of this tree or another similar plum successfully so I'm not too concerned with if it was layer or not but I am struggling with where to layer it.

The first pic shows with an X where I would like to layer it making branch #4 the first branch of the air layer once separated.. This would obviously help by removing the main bottom truck straight section along with the straight section above branches #1 and #2 (possibly for second air layer after). With the trunk being 1"-1.25" in diameter at that point, the bark removal area will be roughly the same length where unfortunately there is a branch #3 that falls right in the area for the air layer cut. Branch #3 is better seen in the second pic.

So my main question is, if I cut and remove branch #3 flush with the trunk and that cut is then within the area I remove the bark/cadmium layer will that negatively affect the air layer?
Plum 1 - Copy.jpg
Plum 2 - Copy.jpg

Any feed back is welcome. Thanks.
 
A branch stump within the peeled area will not affect the layer.
All the roots come from the upper edge of cambium/bark which will be above that branch cut. The rest of the peeled area is simply to stop the bark bridging back to the lower section.
You can get away with a narrower peeled area if you can stop the bark bridging. A wire torniquet just below the top of the peeled area, immediately below the upper live bark is reputed to be useful in such cases. One of the first times I saw that used, the grower cut a narrow band, just wide enough to fit the wire in and got excellent roots.

When you make the upper cut take into account the final trunk angles. Looking at that trunk I'd cut on a slight angle so the new roots will allow planting the trunk leaning slightly in order to bring the bit above the bend more over the base.
 
@Shibui Thank you for the info regarding the cut branch is OK within the girdle area and also adding the advice to cut at the new desired planting angle. I would have for sure cut it perpendicular to the trunk out of habit of cutting things at right angles... LOL. Making things square is a bad habit for bonsai I suppose. I had read about the wire tourniquet method also. I may do that as well for good measure.

While I wait for the leaves to harden off, I need to work out containing the air layer within a plastic pouch or see if I have a small plastic pot/bottle I can butcher to fit into that area... time to poke around the forum some more for inspiration.
 
@Shibui Thank you for the info regarding the cut branch is OK within the girdle area and also adding the advice to cut at the new desired planting angle. I would have for sure cut it perpendicular to the trunk out of habit of cutting things at right angles... LOL. Making things square is a bad habit for bonsai I suppose. I had read about the wire tourniquet method also. I may do that as well for good measure.

While I wait for the leaves to harden off, I need to work out containing the air layer within a plastic pouch or see if I have a small plastic pot/bottle I can butcher to fit into that area... time to poke around the forum some more for inspiration.
I often use small plastic pots for this purpose! Easy to cut with scissors to work around the trunk and branches, simple to reassemble with Teck tape. ( used for vapour barrier sealing in construction) Sample pictured below.
For medium consider small particle pumice with shredded sphagnum moss. Holds moisture well and is easy to comb out of new roots in order to improve the nebari and planting results afterwards.
if you choose the plastic pouch or seal the pot off completely. Then keep a turkey syringe on hand to inject some moisture from time to time if needed. ( usually the tree supplies enough moisture on its own but in some instances when working with more difficult species it is wise to have an edge.)
IMG_0192 2.JPG
 
Great advice, thanks @River's Edge
Been wondering what I can use that fine particle sized pumice I made from what seems like endless pumice sniffing over the last couple weeks. My true Scottish nature wouldn't let me throw it out... 😅
 
@Shibui good catch LOL. Cursed fat fingers and spell check... On a serious note I do try to minimize the "sniffing" using a dust mask while I was "sifting".
 
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