BILBO76
Sapling
How do you know when they are ready for bonsai pot. Mine is currently in a 20x20 6'' deep training pot
Potting trident maple?
- Thread starter BILBO76
- Start date
rockm
Spuds Moyogi
If it's in such a big container, it probably isn't ready for a bonsai pot. Root reduction and work is probably needed, if the branching is developed. Pic would help.
BILBO76
Sapling
Tieball
Masterpiece
How long has the tree been in this training pot?
Often times I poke around the substrate area at a variety of locations with a chopstick to see how dense the roots are. If I can’t push in to much and it feels solid I’m certain that a root prune and return to a container is needed….when the timing is right.
BILBO76
Sapling
I will have to ask the guy I got it from about how long. Thank you all for the replies. I feel like I am in over my head here. All the confidence, that I can keep it alive Just not sure yet how to turn it into an attractive bonsai.
Do you all with more trained eyes think its a good start?
Do you all with more trained eyes think its a good start?
BILBO76
Sapling
Also will trident maples grow well in the ground in my zone?
BILBO76
Sapling
3 years in this pot.
bwaynef
Masterpiece
I'd definitely work on getting that tree into a more appropriate (shallower) pot starting this spring. If you've never done it, it can look pretty scary sometimes, but tridents can take a lot when it comes to repotting, particularly if its done well, at the right time, and SECURED in the pot.
Growing it in an oversized pot is necessary when you're looking to bulk up a tree ...or close wounds. By the time this one has the ramification in place, I'd imagine this wound would be healed. If you're worried about it, give it one more year to heal the wound.
Growing it in an oversized pot is necessary when you're looking to bulk up a tree ...or close wounds. By the time this one has the ramification in place, I'd imagine this wound would be healed. If you're worried about it, give it one more year to heal the wound.
Tieball
Masterpiece
It is a good start. There are a lot of scrappy areas that will need your attention.
If mine….I would not ground grow this tree. I would keep it in the container and continue to grow it in a controlled way. There are areas on the tree that need corrective pruning. You have a good decent start on the tree though. The apex is confusing to me. I also have a few trees with each suffering apex confusion, just like your tree. And I have not yet determined a correction path.
I believe tree will grow in the ground just fine for you if you choose that direction. It will take time….either way.
In my climate I’m heading into winter soon. On a tree like this I take lots of photos. All the photos are at eye level so you almost just see the pot rim and not the soil/substrate. The photos are all about the tree. I rotate a tree in small increments regardless of what I think the front might be. Over the winter I can then analyze and prepare for what needs to be done in spring. I do the photo route because all my trees are outdoors, all year, and in winter they are covered with snow. I don’t see or touch the trees until middle March or early April.
If mine….I would not ground grow this tree. I would keep it in the container and continue to grow it in a controlled way. There are areas on the tree that need corrective pruning. You have a good decent start on the tree though. The apex is confusing to me. I also have a few trees with each suffering apex confusion, just like your tree. And I have not yet determined a correction path.
I believe tree will grow in the ground just fine for you if you choose that direction. It will take time….either way.
In my climate I’m heading into winter soon. On a tree like this I take lots of photos. All the photos are at eye level so you almost just see the pot rim and not the soil/substrate. The photos are all about the tree. I rotate a tree in small increments regardless of what I think the front might be. Over the winter I can then analyze and prepare for what needs to be done in spring. I do the photo route because all my trees are outdoors, all year, and in winter they are covered with snow. I don’t see or touch the trees until middle March or early April.
BILBO76
Sapling
Thank you for all the advice! I was thinking plant some cheap saplings not this tree in the ground. Should I take off some or all of the thick branches off?
BILBO76
Sapling
Here is a few more pics. One shows damage from shipping. Any suggestion what to do there
BILBO76
Sapling
sorry having trouble uploading pic
Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
We have already looked at this trident and given advice. Not sure why there's now a second thread covering the same ground?
I would leave this tree in this grow pot and allow the apex to grow another summer to help close the large pruning scar. There's no problem reducing roots of trident maple when the time comes for a proper pot. They will laugh at 90% root reduction if that's necessary.
Current branches are all over the place as far as angles and shape. There's also far too many which will compete for space as they develop. Take the time to consider which are well placed and have a similar angle/shape. Get rid of any that are out of place and any that are growing close together.
At this early stage I allow branches to grow long through summer then chop back in Autumn to thicken and to get a change of direction unless you happen to like ramrod straight branching.
There's no real answer to the original question. One grower will be happy to put a relatively undeveloped tree in a bonsai pot, especially if they don't already have some good bonsai to show off. Others will be content to wait until all the scars are healed, trunk thickened, nebari well developed and branches well ramified. Just be aware that development of almost all aspects slows greatly when the tree is in a small pot. What might take 3 years to develop in this larger pot may take 8 or more in a smaller pot.
I would leave this tree in this grow pot and allow the apex to grow another summer to help close the large pruning scar. There's no problem reducing roots of trident maple when the time comes for a proper pot. They will laugh at 90% root reduction if that's necessary.
Current branches are all over the place as far as angles and shape. There's also far too many which will compete for space as they develop. Take the time to consider which are well placed and have a similar angle/shape. Get rid of any that are out of place and any that are growing close together.
At this early stage I allow branches to grow long through summer then chop back in Autumn to thicken and to get a change of direction unless you happen to like ramrod straight branching.
There's no real answer to the original question. One grower will be happy to put a relatively undeveloped tree in a bonsai pot, especially if they don't already have some good bonsai to show off. Others will be content to wait until all the scars are healed, trunk thickened, nebari well developed and branches well ramified. Just be aware that development of almost all aspects slows greatly when the tree is in a small pot. What might take 3 years to develop in this larger pot may take 8 or more in a smaller pot.
BILBO76
Sapling
If you already seen it and didnt agree with it having another post. You could simply not reply to said post. You are very inviting to new members. But hey I will take your advice and not post on it again.
Thank You
Thank You
Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
Why not just continue the original thread so all the ideas, pictures and suggestions about the tree are in the same place?
Seems counterproductive to have to go to several different threads to check what people have advised and we can see what has already been suggested to save repeating the same things.
BILBO76
Sapling
Dude I am not arguing with you!
