Desert Rat
Yamadori
Why not just get rid of the guy wires and wire the branches normally? Then you'll be able to wire the "trunk" effectively as well.
Serissa...
- Thread starter Cadillactaste
- Start date
Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
Because...I felt guy wires would be less stress to a finicky tree. That had been purchased this year from an online store and not only shipped out in the mail...its previous owner passed...so it went then to his sisters home then to mine. I felt that was an awful lot for a finicky tree to be put through in the short time it has been up north. I also was told it takes awhile for the branches to set. And I don't want wire scars. This was the safest route I felt for me to go. I'm satisfied with my choice...it might not have been the one some would have chosen...but, I really didn't want to overly stress a tree that was given to me by a friend to tend to after the loss of her bother in law. It made me take less risk...and treat it with kid gloves to to speak. Had it not came with the history it had...I may have treated it differently. But, it's how I chose to handle it.
Desert Rat
Yamadori
If it needed to rest, it'd be better to let it rest and grow. If you're going to wire it, you should just wire it. Guy wires are only "better" if you're relying on the tensile strength of the wire instead.
You're still causing the same amount of stress and creating the same breaks and splits and fractures. Branch wiring *might* actually be better as the coiled wire supports the branch better.
You're still causing the same amount of stress and creating the same breaks and splits and fractures. Branch wiring *might* actually be better as the coiled wire supports the branch better.
Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
Well now, appreciate your advice. But, since I've done taken those steps...and fortune to not have any breaks, splits or fractures. I will call myself blessed. And make a mental note. But for now...I see a happy healthy tree. For one being known as finicky...I plan on keeping the direction I have taken for now. "If it isn't broken...don't fix it attitude" if you will. To fuss now when its full of buds and seemingly happy makes no sense to me.
But, in no way am I snubbing your advice...please don't take it as such. I just can't see wiring a tree that is pushing growth and blooming like crazy. Knocking off those future blooms. I just don't have it in me.
Mellow Mullet
Masterpiece
Yeah, they make a lot of thin roots like azalea. probably just filling the pot. Here are the roots on a serissa:
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Mellow Mullet
Masterpiece
"Guy wires are only "better" if you're relying on the tensile strength of the wire instead.".
What does this mean?
"You're still causing the same amount of stress and creating the same breaks and splits and fractures. Branch wiring *might* actually be better as the coiled wire supports the branch better."
You are not supposed to break, split, or fracture branches when you use either technique.
John
Desert Rat
Yamadori
You rely on the strength of the length of wire to move down branches, which furthermore would not necessitate such a heavy wire as was used. Guy wires do not support the branch.
Lignin. We bust it apart, the plant fills it back in, and then keep the "new" shape when removing the wire. If you're not breaking lignin to any degree, then there's no reason the wiring would keep.
GrimLore
Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you
Or in the case of soft newer growth we use guy wire methods to direct the branch growth while waiting for them to harden off in that configuration. The thickness of the wire or other material is really irrelevant for that type of training. I have used Raffia, Fishing line, Used wire that had been removed from other projects... They all work for that intended purpose. Your statement is relevant but applies to a different type of bending involving branches and/or trunks that have hardened off already. Just does not ALWAYS apply as in this application.
Grimmy
Mellow Mullet
Masterpiece
Well put, Grimmy.
