So this topic seems like another dead horse that needs a little kicking. I am on the South Shore of Long Island, NY and am looking into shade cloth for my maples. Like all things bonsai, I am seeing answers all over the board from use 30% to use 70% to don't use it at all. My trees get a little morning shade from surrounding trees, but by 11 am they are in full sun all day until the sun goes down. So far my trees are loving it and growing like weeds, but hotter weather is fast approaching and 90s predicted for the week after next. So do I invest in shade cloth? If so, what percentage? And then, do I take this on and off depending on the summer sun on a daily basis can it just stay on for the rest of the season?
Shade Cloth
- Thread starter dbonsaiw
- Start date
Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
Like all good bonsai answers it depends.
Every location is different so shade requirements will also be different.
Different tree species have different light/shade requirements.
Your ability to water properly and multiple times in hot weather is different to others.
Pot sizes and soil mix has a big bearing on how much shade is required to make available water last all day.
More sun = more compact growth but more sun also = quicker drying so we need to make some compromise and shade is usually the easiest compromise.
Pines manage through summer with no shade without problems here. I trialled no shade on more delicate species for a couple of summers here. It takes dedication and experience to get trees through a hot summer alive. Even junipers struggle a bit. Most maples had scorched leaves by mid summer but survived.
After proving it could be done I decided the work for me and obvious stress on the trees was not worth it so now I erect 30% shade cloth when heat builds up around mid summer. I leave that shade in place all summer. Remove and replace is a big job for one person and leaves become accustomed to the light levels. Changing light levels does cause stress on trees as the leaves struggle to adapt. Leaves accustomed to shade also burn when suddenly exposed to stronger sun so I don't take the shade off until autumn when sun intensity is much reduced. Removable shade cloth is also subject to wind and storm. Make sure you have it well fixed while it is in place.
Growth under 30% shade still seems to be compact. Still see occasional leaf burn if watering is not adequate. 30% is not commonly available retail (here) so you may need to go for a higher shade factor for small quantities.
Fortunately trees can cope with a variety of conditions so there's not a lot of difference between 30% and 50% shade which I guess is another reason for many different opinions on shade.
You'll need to make up your own mind given local conditions but I'd advise start with some shade just in case. If you feel inclined to trial no shade, you could do so in a small way without risking all the trees but, if you have shade ready, you'll have it available if the experiment does not work out.
Every location is different so shade requirements will also be different.
Different tree species have different light/shade requirements.
Your ability to water properly and multiple times in hot weather is different to others.
Pot sizes and soil mix has a big bearing on how much shade is required to make available water last all day.
More sun = more compact growth but more sun also = quicker drying so we need to make some compromise and shade is usually the easiest compromise.
Pines manage through summer with no shade without problems here. I trialled no shade on more delicate species for a couple of summers here. It takes dedication and experience to get trees through a hot summer alive. Even junipers struggle a bit. Most maples had scorched leaves by mid summer but survived.
After proving it could be done I decided the work for me and obvious stress on the trees was not worth it so now I erect 30% shade cloth when heat builds up around mid summer. I leave that shade in place all summer. Remove and replace is a big job for one person and leaves become accustomed to the light levels. Changing light levels does cause stress on trees as the leaves struggle to adapt. Leaves accustomed to shade also burn when suddenly exposed to stronger sun so I don't take the shade off until autumn when sun intensity is much reduced. Removable shade cloth is also subject to wind and storm. Make sure you have it well fixed while it is in place.
Growth under 30% shade still seems to be compact. Still see occasional leaf burn if watering is not adequate. 30% is not commonly available retail (here) so you may need to go for a higher shade factor for small quantities.
Fortunately trees can cope with a variety of conditions so there's not a lot of difference between 30% and 50% shade which I guess is another reason for many different opinions on shade.
You'll need to make up your own mind given local conditions but I'd advise start with some shade just in case. If you feel inclined to trial no shade, you could do so in a small way without risking all the trees but, if you have shade ready, you'll have it available if the experiment does not work out.
penumbra
Imperial Masterpiece
In New York I would use 30% for maples. Possibly 50% under extreme conditions.
Kadebe
Chumono
I have already learned a great deal here on BN from all those individuals with so much bonsai wisdom. But I can't help responding to this post...certainly no offense or finger pointing.... . It also happens way too much in other posts.
Should your neighbor have the same bonsai as you, but the garden layout and watering is different, his trees might not survive.
So I suggest you then clarify what you are doing and tell the whole story...what trees do you have...how many times a day do you water.... are you misting your trees... are your trees surrounded at the bottom by grasses that slightly increase humidity? With pictures then everything becomes much clearer.
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