Stop Needlecast before it starts!

Adair M

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Yes, it takes a while for the needlecast to express itself with discolored sections, the tiger stripes, on the needles.

It looks like you decandled. So, the new summer candles are growing. Spraying now, and once every week, will help the new needles grow without contracting the disease.

I would alternate Daconil and a copper-based fungicide. And use a systemic, if you can.
 

Wilson

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Yes, it takes a while for the needlecast to express itself with discolored sections, the tiger stripes, on the needles.

It looks like you decandled. So, the new summer candles are growing. Spraying now, and once every week, will help the new needles grow without contracting the disease.

I would alternate Daconil and a copper-based fungicide. And use a systemic, if you can.

I am on it! Hopefully I can keep the summer candles free of it. Thanks for the encouragement.
 

Lionheart

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Twice a year, for my pines. Needlecast infects the needles as they are growing. So, having it available when the needles are growing kills the fungus in inside the needle. Before it takes hold.

So, spring. That’s once.
Thanks for your wisdom. If I have it, and did not treat in spring should I treat now? Trying to prevent a massive kill/loss here.
 

coh

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I still get a kick out of this thread every time it pops up. "Neeflecast", love it!

Personally, I treat my pines regularly with fungicide (primarily daconil) throughout the growing season. The ones that were decandled are still growing/elongating needles so they are probably susceptible to infection. For the others it may make no difference (if the needles have matured/hardened off) but I don't think it hurts anything.
 

Ayxowpat

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I am not sure if this is asked in this thread, couldn't read all the posts. Is it really okay to apply fungicide on pines' soil? I read this information many times which tells not to apply fungicide to pines' soil, because it will kill mycorrhiza?
 

Japonicus

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I am not sure if this is asked in this thread, couldn't read all the posts. Is it really okay to apply fungicide on pines' soil? I read this information many times which tells not to apply fungicide to pines' soil, because it will kill mycorrhiza?
I've never protected the soil on mine when spraying the candles as I did a month ago.
My JWP on BP roots was repotted just prior to using Daconil, so if it were going to affect one, that would've been the one.
I'll be using Phyton27 next go 'round which is a strong copper fungicide. I don't purposely spray the soil, nor drench it either
but I don't protect it no matter which pines I'm spraying, laterally or straight down.
 

Japonicus

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DSC_2120.JPG
This was WAS the 1st pine I ever had. JBP. Lost it last year to I believe one of 40 types of needle cast in the US. It got the black suit like clumps at the needle sheaths, tar like really,
and in the break on the left branch. Now I spray proactively. My mugos are susceptible but the WP much less so.
 

Adair M

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View attachment 243664
This was WAS the 1st pine I ever had. JBP. Lost it last year to I believe one of 40 types of needle cast in the US. It got the black suit like clumps at the needle sheaths, tar like really,
and in the break on the left branch. Now I spray proactively. My mugos are susceptible but the WP much less so.
Sorry to see that! Don’t let needlecast get started!
 

River's Edge

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Bayer 3 in 1 systemic.
Anybody have experience using this? Rate dosing size, species to not use on etc...
I have used it effectively on pine, fir and juniper. You do understand that it is a systemic insecticide not a fungicide as this thread is focussed on right!
The dosage is difficult to calculate based on the package instructions, I settled on one tablespoon per container with Bonsai. I have only used it on two Bonsai trees with evidence of borers. One JBP and one Sierra Juniper ( they both improved)
I have also used it on landscape trees ( assorted pines and firs) in my yard that showed sign of borers, they also improved and returned to health without further sign of deterioration. I only applied two treatments in each case about six months apart. ( for this i followed the recommended dosage based on the trunk diameter)
The package is dissapointing in that it comes half filled. Appears to have much more product in it than it does.
 

KLSbonsai

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I have used it effectively on pine, fir and juniper. You do understand that it is a systemic insecticide not a fungicide as this thread is focussed on right!
The dosage is difficult to calculate based on the package instructions, I settled on one tablespoon per container with Bonsai. I have only used it on two Bonsai trees with evidence of borers. One JBP and one Sierra Juniper ( they both improved)
I have also used it on landscape trees ( assorted pines and firs) in my yard that showed sign of borers, they also improved and returned to health without further sign of deterioration. I only applied two treatments in each case about six months apart. ( for this i followed the recommended dosage based on the trunk diameter)
The package is dissapointing in that it comes half filled. Appears to have much more product in it than it does.
Actually the Bayer 3 n1 has tubconazole as the fungicide in it. This is a local systemic, meaning it is absorbed in the foliage and will move from cell to cell. It can not move into the vascular system to move into other parts of the tree. Bayer does have several versions of their product out there. So if there is another version I am not seeing that you are looking at, then I apologize.
 
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River's Edge

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Actually the Bayer 3 n1 has tubconazole as the fungicide in it. This is a local systemic, meaning it is absorbed in the foliage and will move from cell to cell. It can not move into the vascular system to move into other parts of the tree. Bayer does have several versions of their product out there. So if there is another version I am not seeing that you are looking at, then I apologize.
My Bad! I confused it with the Bayer Advanced tree and shrub protection sold in a similar package. It contains Imidacloprid and Clothiandin. I was not aware that foliage sprays were considered systemic. From your description, they would likely not be effectiveif the disease has spread beyond the leaves, is that correct?
Here is a picture of the product i have used. Sorry for the mix up. I should have gone out to the workshop and eyeballed it the first time.
 

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Japonicus

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My Bad! I confused it with the Bayer Advanced tree and shrub protection sold in a similar package. It contains Imidacloprid and Clothiandin. I was not aware that foliage sprays were considered systemic. From your description, they would likely not be effectiveif the disease has spread beyond the leaves, is that correct?
Here is a picture of the product i have used. Sorry for the mix up. I should have gone out to the workshop and eyeballed it the first time.
I got the Rose and Flower care 3 in 1 product that does work on rust on ornamentals.
I was curious if anybody could relay their experiences with dosage.
Thanks Frank and KLS
 

sorce

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Adair.
I switched the title so it can be searched.
Left neefle in the first post cuz it's talked about later.

Sorce
 

Brian Van Fleet

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Adair.
I switched the title so it can be searched.
Left neefle in the first post cuz it's talked about later.

Sorce
Thank you! My brain always read this title in the voice of Bugs Bunny...or Yosemite Sam...😜
 

Japonicus

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Adair.
I switched the title so it can be searched.
Left neefle in the first post cuz it's talked about later.

Sorce
I'm confused. Zing - over my through my head.
The 3 in 1 that I got was for a supplement for needle cast treatment (rotation)
since I can assume all my pines have it, having lost one last year to it.
It's the only granular systemic I have, just no experience with it outside of roses.
 

KiwiPlantGuy

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I'm confused. Zing - over my through my head.
The 3 in 1 that I got was for a supplement for needle cast treatment (rotation)
since I can assume all my pines have it, having lost one last year to it.
It's the only granular systemic I have, just no experience with it outside of roses.

Hi Japonicus,
So what I believe from reading this thread is that if your product has a systemic fungicide as part of the 3 in 1 then this fungicide can be absorbed through the roots via the granules.
In doing this, your needlecast should be killed, as well as using protectant fungicides via leaf/needle spraying.
Interesting that I have over the 25 years used a large range of fungicides/insecticides but have never thought of using a systemic fungicide as a root drench (til I became a member here).
Also, there seems to be a bit of confusion in the last page or so about insecticides and fungicides. So yeah needlecast is a type of fungus.
Hope this helps somewhat,
Charles
 

KLSbonsai

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Chemicals labeled for use in the landscape against Rhizosphaera include: azoxystrobin, copper salts of fatty and/or rosin acids, copper hydroxide, copper hydroxide + mancozeb, mancozeb, thiophanate-methyl and Phosphorous acid.
This is an clip from an UMASS article on needle cast. My humble opinion the phosphorous acid might be a good product to rotate into a program. It will move both up and down through the vascular system of the tree and will move between the cell walls of the leaf and needle tissue. It is also really good on fighting root rot diseases. Cleary's 3336 is thiophanate-methyl. Through my work we try to rotate fungicides every 2-3 applications to prevent resistance. Changing modes of action and class of fungicide.
 

River's Edge

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I'm confused. Zing - over my through my head.
The 3 in 1 that I got was for a supplement for needle cast treatment (rotation)
since I can assume all my pines have it, having lost one last year to it.
It's the only granular systemic I have, just no experience with it outside of roses.
Thought i cleared that up in post #73 above. The Bayer Advanced is not a fungicide. I did not the ingredients but not their purpose.
The only systemic fungicide i use is the Bonide Infuse. All the others are merely protective and not systemic.
 
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