TP Trident.

I don't think I would have done it that way personally. You had a good flare, some of those large roots providing that flare. The whole notion about all the roots being the same size is a misnomer in the early part of its life. Maybe when its ready for the show pot and finished but you need to get to that point.

I would have left the large root stubs about two inches long. Then cut the reverse of what you did. Cut the bottom to nothing instead of the top to nothing. What you did is add a large scar that will never make roots on top. Make the long tapering cut on the bottom and it will root all around the large root with smaller roots ( equalizing size) but doing it on the massive basal flare. Look at your picture with all the big roots cut back to the trunk, now all the flare is gone, and it will never come back unless you let something grow big again. In a way it looks like you have almost introduced reverse taper.....

DSC_0011.JPG DSC_0021.JPG

Thats how I was able to keep the flare on this. It has worked to my advantage.
DSC_0031.JPG
 
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Yikes. Thanks, Al. Hope I can fix it next year. Will let the maple roots grow strong. Hopefully it'll help.
 
sorce said:
I think he did now!

Go big or go home, right?

Sorce
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Actually TP did it a bit more than what I had in mind. I was thinking a bit more like what smoke posted. Anyway I think it will be fine.
 
namnhi said:
..... bit more than what I had in mind......
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It is nice to have the pictures to back up ones thinking

namnhi said:
......what smoke posted........
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I have a huge picture archive of probably most work that can be done during growing a maple.

namnhi said:
Anyway I think it will be fine.
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Basis for this thinking? I will be surprised if it even lives.
 
Looking OK so far...o_O
I have some buds where the red arrows point. Now just grow purdy pleeese!
IMG_20170301_131414.jpg
20170301_130259.jpg
 
I do think it is not a bad choice to cut the large roots. The lower smaller roots are more equal in size. BUT you will have to let them grow for a while. In a bigger pot / box. When you see some reverse taper after repotting in two years time, you might consider putting it in the ground again. I really like the start on this one!
 
Another great thread. looks like you are well on your way TP. Especially relevant to me as I just acquired a trident on wednesday night at the club meeting in a 5 dollar raffle. I'ts not a great tree but im excited to work with a new species, I want to air layer the top off, I'll be repotting it tomorrow. It should be fine to layer this season after a repot right? tempted to just chop it and get started on it, as I can see bulges where buds will be in good places below the first branch already.

TyMHLDA.jpg

QuG3C3H.jpg
 
Waltron said:
Another great thread. looks like you are well on your way TP. Especially relevant to me as I just acquired a trident on wednesday night at the club meeting in a 5 dollar raffle. I'ts not a great tree but im excited to work with a new species, I want to air layer the top off, I'll be repotting it tomorrow. It should be fine to layer this season after a repot right? tempted to just chop it and get started on it, as I can see bulges where buds will be in good places below the first branch already.

TyMHLDA.jpg

QuG3C3H.jpg
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Missed you post. I'm not sure if your plan is good, so hopefully someone can tell you.
 
looks legit. hey you do you ever notice any root heat issues with that metal colander when you repot? do you only put your partial shade species in it? or do you have anything in full sun in that metal colander?
think about making a metal colander box but i keep thinking it may burn, also thinking a coat of rustoleum may negate it.
 
Waltron said:
looks legit. hey you do you ever notice any root heat issues with that metal colander when you repot? do you only put your partial shade species in it? or do you have anything in full sun in that metal colander?
think about making a metal colander box but i keep thinking it may burn, also thinking a coat of rustoleum may negate it.
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I hadn't had any problems on a Quince I left in full sun last year while growing in the steel colander. My experience with them has only been a year though. Don't you think black pots might get hotter?
 
Leaves so pointy and Amur-like this year. Shall I wait until the summer before thinning out the branch clusters or let grow freely all this year?

20170406_193815.jpg

I better keep in mind leaving some for thread grafting branches.
 
thumblessprimate1 said:
Leaves so pointy and Amur-like this year. Shall I wait until the summer before thinning out the branch clusters or let grow freely all this year?

View attachment 140060

I better keep in mind leaving some for thread grafting branches.
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TP, I would let it grow without any thinning for a while to help regenerate the roots. Me thinking it best to do cut back when the tree stop growing. That way you will get a nice second flush. I think Scott advocate doing it that way too.
Looking good my friend.
 
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