TROUBLE WITH Ph

August44

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My trees never seem to have the nice healthy color that they should so I checked my tap water Ph. It's high at 7.6+, which I understand is higher than 6-6.5 that is recommended. I'm really not sure how my high Ph affects trees nor do I know how to easily lower it. I've read about different ways to lower it like charcoal filters, siphon systems with different chemicals, etc. Help appreciated with a system to use and what a high Ph does to plants. Thanks
 
My trees never seem to have the nice healthy color that they should so I checked my tap water Ph. It's high at 7.6+, which I understand is higher than 6-6.5 that is recommended. I'm really not sure how my high Ph affects trees nor do I know how to easily lower it. I've read about different ways to lower it like charcoal filters, siphon systems with different chemicals, etc. Help appreciated with a system to use and what a high Ph does to plants. Thanks
From what I understand, soil that is too acidic or too alkaline can reduce the availability of nutrients in the soil. Soil that is highly alkaline can also cause chlorosis I believe. I know that some people like to use epsom salts to make their soil more acidic, or different amendments such as iron sulfate or even a teaspoon of white vinegar. Typically, this teaspoon of white vinegar would be applied once a month. Personally, I use 'Vitax Sequestered Plant Iron Tonic', but that may not be available in the US. Hopefully others will be able to provide some more detail and suggestions.
 
My trees never seem to have the nice healthy color that they should so I checked my tap water Ph. It's high at 7.6+, which I understand is higher than 6-6.5 that is recommended. I'm really not sure how my high Ph affects trees nor do I know how to easily lower it. I've read about different ways to lower it like charcoal filters, siphon systems with different chemicals, etc. Help appreciated with a system to use and what a high Ph does to plants. Thanks

In short, a high pH reduces the availability of some metals, particularly iron. But high pH is used by municipal water systems to keep from solubilizing lead. So most of us have to deal with pH above 7. Soils will reduce the pH over time. Rain water has a lower pH. Fertilizing helps reduce pH, particularly if you use one of the acid ferts. For most, it doesn't seem to be too much of a problem. If your plants aren't doing well though, try Mir-Acid fertilizer.
 
Water pH @ 7.6 is higher than suggested, but I haven't noticed huge problems w/ similar water. I went to some trouble w/ a Dramm siphonject/venturi system a while back, dosing my water to get it down to roughly 6ph w/ ph Down for most of one growing season and didn't notice appreciable results. I *MAY* resurrect it, but I don't feel strongly that its necessary.

I've heard it suggested to treat weekly w/ a mild vinegar solution, but not entirely sure the ins and outs of it. I once checked the pH of my fertilizer (fish, kelp, calmag+fe, etc) after it was all mixed up and it was ~5pH. I figure that's likely low enough to start working with the soil chemistry to nullify the water's high pH.
 
I have similar problems and no real solution yet. For now I let the water drain more to prevent buildup of chalk.
 
Roots can excrete acids or bases depending on the water; they regulate the local soil pH up to 2 pH points 'away from ideal'.
But since we flush our soils daily, over time this can become an issue.

The easiest way is to connect your gutters to a couple rain barrels and mix rain with tap 1:1.
The second easiest way is to use a barrel, add tap water and some vinegar.
The third easiest ways are the same as the second, but with HCl or sulfuric or nitric acid. Sulfuric and nitric are preferred over muriatic but I've never seen issues with either one of the three.

If your trees have a lighter color than expected of them, first thing I'd check is to make sure I'm not over watering. Second is to manually add trace elements, which can be store bought in chelated form.
If that doesn't help, try fixing the pH. Usually the first two methods solve everything for most gardeners.
 
Roots can excrete acids or bases depending on the water; they regulate the local soil pH up to 2 pH points 'away from ideal'.
But since we flush our soils daily, over time this can become an issue.

The easiest way is to connect your gutters to a couple rain barrels and mix rain with tap 1:1.
The second easiest way is to use a barrel, add tap water and some vinegar.
The third easiest ways are the same as the second, but with HCl or sulfuric or nitric acid. Sulfuric and nitric are preferred over muriatic but I've never seen issues with either one of the three.

If your trees have a lighter color than expected of them, first thing I'd check is to make sure I'm not over watering. Second is to manually add trace elements, which can be store bought in chelated form.
If that doesn't help, try fixing the pH. Usually the first two methods solve everything for most gardeners.
I was browsing old threads on the topic because my hose pH water registered in the 8+ area, and did a few goog searches a few weeks ago, a blog mentions an 'organic ph down' recipe concluded that vinegar can cause yellowing and damage over the course of a few weeks alone, he recommends citric acid and occasional humic acid, 6:1 ratio based on his recipe (2 tbsp citric to 1 tsp humic), I would fill a large container and gradually add and test with pool strips or pH meter until pH is in that sweet spot between 6-6.5 and take note of the amount of citric+humic that it took to bring that amount of water down.

All credit to HereButNot's site.....I haven't personally tried it yet, but considering that he went through the trouble to try a lot of different things and test it on his plants...., it's worth considering if one wants to experiment with a cheap home brew pH down dilution. You can buy 10 pounds of citric acid on amazon for 37 bucks, walmart and grocery stores stock it as well.

 
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