What is best/safest to do first. Style or repot?
- Thread starter Krone
- Start date
chansen
Shohin
Not styling now won't impact the health of the tree. Not repotting could kill it due to bad soil. Repot first, pretty much always.
Eckhoffw
Masterpiece
I’d have to agree with chanson on this one.
Good to check out the feet before you make out with the face.
Some pines like a summer pot though. So it could depend on species as well!
Good to check out the feet before you make out with the face.
Some pines like a summer pot though. So it could depend on species as well!
TN_Jim
Omono
What kinda tree do you have?
River's Edge
Masterpiece
For many reasons repot first is important.
First and foremost health of the tree. Set it up for success going forward.
Knowledge of the root system and preparation for Bonsai pot over stages.
Exposes nebari and potential nebari for design planning. ie: picking the front
Often exposes hidden issues that must be addressed, rotted roots, inverse taper, insect infestations such as grubs, termites etc.
Wires_Guy_wires
Imperial Masterpiece
For me it's spring. But you'll get more different answers I bet.
My summers can be hot and dry, so I prefer not to take any risks when it comes to repotting them.
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Hot and Dry aren't the adjectives associated with fear of summer repotting. Unless you don't water.
Hot and Windy.
But then you can still water.
Ask @0soyoung the actual temps at which roots stop growing.
Keep in mind that is watered root zone temps that you can maintain.
Then, the fear of spring repotting Spruce is apparent. They are trying to grow on top at that time. Why stress them?
Don't fear summer repotting of Spruce.
As far as which should come first.....
Define "regular soil".
Here, the only things that MUST be potted (planted in the ground actually.risk.) are balled and burlapped trees from what is usually clay. (And don't quote me on that must, but for me it is)
A tree in Nursery soil is set up to grow well and will for at least 4 or 5 years.
Which is plenty of time to style, recover, then repot.
Inspect the roots.
The only ticking time bomb is....
Will the roots get too hard to unmess before you get to them?
The rest is up to what the design encorporates.
Styling via wiring every branch is different than styling via cutting off 80% of the foliage.
Think of the top too, and it's ticking time bombs.
If there is a heavy section that is going to get worse before the tree recovers enough from repotting to deal with said heavy section, perhaps you MUST cut heavy and therefore "style" now.
PPB.
Keep potential problems at bay.
Sorce
Hot and Windy.
But then you can still water.
Ask @0soyoung the actual temps at which roots stop growing.
Keep in mind that is watered root zone temps that you can maintain.
Then, the fear of spring repotting Spruce is apparent. They are trying to grow on top at that time. Why stress them?
Don't fear summer repotting of Spruce.
As far as which should come first.....
Define "regular soil".
Here, the only things that MUST be potted (planted in the ground actually.risk.) are balled and burlapped trees from what is usually clay. (And don't quote me on that must, but for me it is)
A tree in Nursery soil is set up to grow well and will for at least 4 or 5 years.
Which is plenty of time to style, recover, then repot.
Inspect the roots.
The only ticking time bomb is....
Will the roots get too hard to unmess before you get to them?
The rest is up to what the design encorporates.
Styling via wiring every branch is different than styling via cutting off 80% of the foliage.
Think of the top too, and it's ticking time bombs.
If there is a heavy section that is going to get worse before the tree recovers enough from repotting to deal with said heavy section, perhaps you MUST cut heavy and therefore "style" now.
PPB.
Keep potential problems at bay.
Sorce
just.wing.it
Deadwood Head
I like to get my trees into irregular soil asap.
Regular soilas the soil used in garden centres. Not bonsai nursery, just a regular trees.
Regarding the styling, for the both spruces, at least half of the foliage will be remove eventually, which i plan to do in periods of couple of years.
From every info i have collected on the internet and mostly here i think that the best and safest way for me would be re-pot first and style it later.
I am just still not sure what is the safest season. Spring or early summer? I guess it depends on personal experiences?
Regarding the styling, for the both spruces, at least half of the foliage will be remove eventually, which i plan to do in periods of couple of years.
From every info i have collected on the internet and mostly here i think that the best and safest way for me would be re-pot first and style it later.
I am just still not sure what is the safest season. Spring or early summer? I guess it depends on personal experiences?
0soyoung
Imperial Masterpiece
It is around 40F/5C and below
Here are the pictures of all three trees.
First two have been cleaned, the fir was just bought today. I am starting to collecting material so i can something more to work with.
Would and i will bough more before spring, but i have to be careful so that my girlfriend doesn't get to annoyed with me and my trees
First two have been cleaned, the fir was just bought today. I am starting to collecting material so i can something more to work with.
Would and i will bough more before spring, but i have to be careful so that my girlfriend doesn't get to annoyed with me and my trees
chansen
Shohin
Yeah, removing dead stuff is fine. Generally the same is true with weak stuff, as long as you know you really don't need it. I've sometimes left weak branches in place on purpose, because I want them to get stronger, etc. But if you know you don't need weak branches, they can go.
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
0soyoung
Imperial Masterpiece
I am unaware of any studies where an exact temperature of stasis is nailed down. Generally growth is limited by enzymatic reactions that are slowed to less than a snail's pace when temperatures are about 40F/5C or below. Seedlings are often lifted from fields and kept over winter in refrigerators kept at roughly 40F/5C. I'm sure there is abundant observations that little or no growth occurs and is connected with why our household refrigerators are kept at roughly 40F/5C as well. Anybody that has stratified seeds in their refrigerator knows it isn't exactly true that nothing grows at these temperatures because sometimes seeds germinate, right there in the frig. It would be less likely to happen if we lower the thermostat setting - just a few degrees makes a big difference.
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Sorry, the hot side...I think I remember you saying around 90F is the hot side stopper.
Sorce
