Whole-Tree Air Layer

[DrTolhur]

I just got a coral bark Japanese maple, and the lower trunk has not much good going on. No branches, no good movement. So I'd like to air layer where the arrow is indicating to get rid of the basically useless part of the trunk. (I prefer shohin-sized bonsais, so I'm not really interested in having so much trunk before any branching.) I know the general principle with trees is that the roots need to match the canopy, and so air layers tend to be on branches or otherwise less leaf-laden portions of trees. Is it reasonable to pull off this air layer, or would I need to heavily prune back the branches to make it work?

Couple of notes:
1) I just got it planted in the ground, so I'm not necessarily looking to do the air layer this year. I figure it'll need some time to get situated before I do something so drastic.
2) I've never successfully air layered.
3) Taking a risk and accidentally having the tree die and chalking it up to "learning" is not an option.

 

[Hack Yeah!]

Good evening Doctor, you can certainly layer where you have proposed. You can likely try it this season. Failure is always an option. I would consider starting higher as the trunk has some movement, looks near as thick and would preserve the lower portion for future projects. Best of luck

 

[papkey5]

You could try these to help you air layer. I plan to use them for the first time this season so I don’t have personal experience.

 

[Hack Yeah!]

I just reread your post and I think you have some misinformation. Layers require many leaves, you'll never want to prune anything above your layer. Primary trunks are the preferred area to layer. More leaves = more roots quicker

 

[DrTolhur]

I just reread your post and I think you have some misinformation. Layers require many leaves, you'll never want to prune anything above your layer. Primary trunks are the preferred area to layer. More leaves = more roots quicker

That's a good point, I wasn't very clear. I was referring to the point of cutting off the layer. While it's connected, the leaves are still fed from the main root system, so yeah, more leaves is better while layering. It's my understanding that if you have too many leaves relative to roots after removing it, the root system won't be able to support the now-independent tree.

 

[just.wing.it]

Failure is most definitely an option. ....maybe the only one.

Why not air layer some smaller branches?

 

[Hack Yeah!]

That's a good point, I wasn't very clear. I was referring to the point of cutting off the layer. While it's connected, the leaves are still fed from the main root system, so yeah, more leaves is better while layering. It's my understanding that if you have too many leaves relative to roots after removing it, the root system won't be able to support the now-independent tree.

Ok, I understand what you meant now. There are two schools of thought post separation. 1. Plant as is and let the plant decide, my personal choice, this allows for the maximum root production for the remaining season imo. 2. Prune down following separation to reduce stress and help ensure survival, helps promote your future trunk line optimally. Both will work fine

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

In your case, I’m not seeing the necessity of a lot pruning after your air layer given you wait for a good halo of roots to form before you separate.... and maybe not even then...

The image below shows a Sango Kaku airlayer 7 months after separating. I had only one major root. Minimal pruning was done. It’s in sphagnum and bark presently, in bouncing, vibrant health. Will be transferred to a pot in a month or later. ( Not an issue doing so in our area due to moderate weather here.).



Good Luck with your airlayer!
DSD sends

 

[DrTolhur]

Thanks for the info/input. Glad to know I should have multiple options, including my original thought of layering the whole tree.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Btw: In the example of a practice airlayer above it would of been better to take the air layer just below the second branch junction above the lowest branch. That’s what @Hack Yeah! was pointing out.... getting that two trunk effect. That’s what wI’ll happen once this guy gets settled down next year.
branch.
cheers
DSD sends

 

[Shibui]

Rather than a typical air layer with a bag of moss it is easier and safer to ground layer down low on a trunk. procedure is the same but rather than wrapping in a plastic bag use a ring to build up the soil level. A plastic nursery pot with the bottom cut out would be ideal here. Move the mulch away, place the pot round the prepared trunk and fill with soil to cover the cut area where roots are to grow.
This method gives the added advantage of better drainage so it can't stay too wet and contact with the soil below will help maintain moisture but you will need to remember to water regularly. new roots will also have more room to grow and will usually develop faster.

As already mentioned, where living things are concerned nothing is absolutely certain.
The higher layer point will at least give a fall back position if the layer fails. you also get 2 trees rather than 1 if it works. Everything depends on what you really want to achieve and what level of risk you are prepared to take.