Azalea chop advice

That made my day :p Two reasons - you get heated up way to easy. And @Harunobu knows Azalea I mean really knows Azalea. On the subject however I did not need pictures for you to prove what works for you, I believed you... I am going to suggest it may be a very good practice to follow but what seems to be missing here is that not all things work the same for everyone, everywhere, every time. It does for you and I understand - really. What others experience is different for a wide range of reasons. Many do not need a topical that addresses fungal issues, many do. It is a wide open subject and I certainly don't look at your advice as bad or good and needs to be used when a situation dictates so. Climate and the condition of the plant along with the type needs to be considered... It really is all important and as with light and substrate could be argued for no real reason...

I do however thank you for sharing, always good to see and hear a different perspective. On the other side of the fence - Harunobu knows what works for him... "breath deep" :)

Grimmy
Vance likes pictures as proof of competence. I figured others would, too.

So....

Harunobu says I should not follow the teaching of those who produce better bonsai than I, but instead I should conduct large, controlled experiments to see if a particular technique works or not...

First of all, who had time, money, and resources for that? If I had to scientificly test every little tip or technique I've ever been told I wouldn't ever have any bonsai! I'd have a zillion experiments instead!

So, instead of following the advice of those who produce world class bonsai, I'm supposed to forget all that because some dude, who is reputed to really know azalea, says it might be a waste of time because I haven't run all the tests....

I dunno, it doesn't take that much trouble to apply cut paste. The grey putty hides the cuts. It doesn't cost much. I've had good results so far.

I have seen azalea with no cut paste have bad die back.

Sorry, Grimmy, maybe you know Harunobu's work and can attest that his no cut paste cuts heal over with minimal scarring and no die back, he's not presented any evidence to support his position.

Maybe he will. And maybe cut paste has no effect...

But I have seen no reason to change my position.
 
Maybe he will. And maybe cut paste has no effect...

But I have seen no reason to change my position.

Honest, I said it works for you and I believe it does, no argument intended...

I also stated it is not the same for everyone for a wide variety of logical reasons - also no argument intended...

I was "suggesting" - that is all ;)

Grimmy
 
One must compare groups of plants treated one way versus another group treated the other way, not just one specimen of each way. There will, of course, be variations in each group because of any number of uncontrolled/hidden variables (such as the plants, the weather). In essence, the worst/least of one group must be better than the best/most of the other for there to demonstrate a positive result of the treatment. Mathematical statistics gives us a way to draw this distinction more precisely.

Not really. If you use infinitely many plants then for sure there will be a plant with the bad treatment doing better than the plant with the best treatment. One may be hit with lightning. The other with a beam of magic.
If you test with many many plants, you can even show very reliably that 0.01% of the treated plants respond positively to treatment with cut paste. You can get a result that shows that this effect is with 99.999% certainty not caused by chance. But you need a lot of plants for that.

You indeed use statistics to see how likely it is that your test variable, be it a certain fungus or just a death count, deviates from what you would expect if the treatment has no effect.

If you test with just 4 plants, 2 treated and 2 control, there are quite good odds that the 2 control plants by pure chance do better on your test statistic than the treated plants.
You need to use a larger number and decide what is statistically significant. If the result you get is a result you would get by chance only 1% of the time, that's pretty statistically significant, meaning that in 99% of the cases your experiment shows the treatment has a certain effect.

Of course with plants the problem is that you need to do it outside and if you have 200 plants, they won't all be in exactly the same spot.
Also, plants would be exactly the same. If I go out to a nursery and buy 200 2 euro azalea plants, some will be different from others. But if I buy enough of them the law of large numbers will take care of that.

Shigo and others did exactly these kinds of experiments. You don't have to do them anymore.

If you believe that bonsai azalea, or any species for that matter, react entirely different to pruning than normal plants, then indeed you need to use 400 euro bonsai, meaning you will never know. You will never know if they work. Yet here people confidently claim it does.

That you ask for just 800 dollar for two azalea bonsai just shows me you do not understand. If you did, you'd ask me for 200,000 dollar.

When we can't do an experiment to be sure, let's just admit we don't really know for sure.

It doesn't have anything to do with me or my experience. Some of these botanical claims can be tested scientifically. Yet people here fervently postulate you need to do this exact thing for these exact reasons. The only arguments given is 'My plants look fine.' and 'Japanese masters taught us this and they make the best bonsai'. But the truth is, cut paste may be ineffectual or mildly harmful while at the same time your plants do look absolutely fine and these Japanese masters are the greatest source of knowledge on azalea bonsai. I don't dispute those two last claims. I agree. Those plants look fine and Japanese bonsai masters know the most about azalea bonsai. But that doesn't mean anything in a discussion on cut paste. Obviously applying cut paste can't be a death sentence. Otherwise, people would have figured out it is truly horrible. So likely it is mildly bad. Not enough to kill them often enough for people to notice. But when you carry out a careful experiment you find out it makes no difference, so you waste money and time, or that it is mildly harmful.

There's actually plenty of good quality bonsai artists that do not use cut paste. They also have fine results. But that in itself doesn't mean they aren't doing harm by applying no cut paste. If applying no cut paste does harm, they can still have fine trees.

You say you saw an azalea without cut paste die from dieback. Did I say anything to suggest this cannot possibly happen?
 
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No, I didn't say I saw one die from not using cut paste, I said I've seen azaleas have die back when it was omitted. Die back in this case means several things. It could be the loss of a significant portion of a branch. Let's say you pruned s branch back to where it is now 4 inches long. If dieback occurs and it died back to where it is on one inch of live wood, that's significant die back.

Sometimes, the whole branch might die. The worst case is when not only the whole branch dies, the dieback continues down the trunk. It can go down to the trunk, and continue down the trunk to the roots!

My experience by using cut paste as I described, I get virtually no dieback. The wood stays alive virtually to the end. Now, please consider that I try to place my cuts to where I know, or suspect there are adventitious buds. So, once those new buds start growing, the tree starts to callous over the cuts. Depending on the size of the scar, it can callous over (heal) in a couple years.

My little azaleas were produced by repeated pruning off all the branches. The trunk popped out new buds, which were allowed to grow out, then removed, and new buds come...

Lots and lots of cuts. Scars. Which have "healed" over. The trick is with azalea, they'll callous over small cuts, but large cuts don't appear to fair as well.

Now, one more question for Harunobu: the Japanese bonsai masters are not idiots. Don't you think that someone in the past may have tried growing satsuki without using cut paste? For sure, since they work on hundreds of them, if it wasn't worth the time and trouble, they would all have quit doing it. They don't have time to waste. Money either.

As I said, I don't want to run a large scale experiment on proving whether or not cut paste works. I frankly don't care! I'm concerned with my few bonsai azalea. Cut paste works for me, and until you can prove that I am harming my plants, I will continue using it. You have yet to offer any evidence showing that cut paste either has no effect or is harmful, yet you imply that it is. And, of course, I am referring specifically to TopJin cut paste on azalea.

If you cite evidence of other cut paste or other species, that means nothing.
 
Of course they aren't idiots. For a very long time people had just no idea about plant physiology. They made assumptions and went with that. Human medicine also started off completely the wrong way, and those people weren't idiots either.
Are they stubborn and ignoring science? Possibly. Do you need to be an idiot to be stubborn?
Of course in Japan even more as with you, tradition has meaning and there is a father-sun or master-apprentice relationship that doesn't encourage change.


It is known that the idea of cut paste developed from misunderstandings about plant healing. There was a reasoning behind putting stuff on a plant wound. This is not just what I say, it is in the paper I linked, which was peer reviewed and not overturned.

Say this is the truth: when you prune 100 azalea and don't treat them, let's say 55 recover vigorously, 41 recover so-so, 3 have problems but do not die, and 1 of them dies.

Now, take the exact same azalea. Now treat them all with cut paste. Then it turns out that 50 recover vigorously, 45 recover so-so, 4 have problems but do not die, and 1 of them dies.

Will you really notice? No. Even if you are a bonsai genius? No. Is there a clear difference? Yes. Can you find out? Yes.


You lie when you say I show no evidence. I linked the papers in my first post. Did you read them?
Talk about not providing evidence and providing arguments that are know to be false; that is you exactly.

You can postulate that an azalea can possibly be completely reverse from all other known plants. Fine. But what is your basis? Is their physiology really that vastly different? Is the pathology they are exposed to really that vastly different? Do you know this. Or do you just presuppose this because it suits you?
Same with bonsai vs non-bonsai. It is just grasping at straws. On the one side you make claims, on the other side you claim you need to test on your azalea bonsai in your exact garden, with your exact brand of cut paste, or else it means nothing. You can't have it both ways.

You say you don't care about the truth. You don't believe in science. I rest my case.
 
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Oh, I believe in science.

But sometimes "science" can be misinterpreted.

There's the somewhat famous story about how some scientists "proved" that bumble bees cannot fly. Yet they do.

This is all a tempest in a teapot. Let's agree to disagree. I will continue to apply cut paste to my azalea, and you can do whatever you want to yours.

And my experience is that azalea are very thin barked, their defense systems (the "walls" as the Wikipedia article calls them) are very weak, so anything we can do to help the plant protect itself is beneficial.

Sometimes we have to compete against the natural characteristics of the tree to make it do what we want to create bonsai. Azalea are a perfect example. Azalea are naturally bushes. They make multiple branches (trunks) that start low, close to the soil.

We think of a "tree" as having a single trunk with branches coming off the single trunk. We have to force azalea to grow in such a manner.

Most trees are stronger up top, near the apex. They want to grow tall. Azalea are stronger near the bottom. They want to grow wide.

Azalea are profuse back budders. If a branch is broken, they'll sluff it off, and grow another from the trunk, or base where the damaged branch started.

THAT is precisely the characteristic we don't want! We are trying to PREVENT the tree from doing what it does naturally! We prune, and we want to preserve what's left. The azalea's natural response is to sluff it off, and regrow a new branch. So, applying cut paste prevents the natural die off the azalea would naturally do.

You see, we are using a bush and trying to force it into acting like a tree. We cannot be successful achieving this if we let it "do its thing". It would revert back into being a bush.
 
If it makes you feel better, I'll say that I often don't use cut paste when pruning a pine. They respond very differently to pruning than an azalea.

So yes, species does matter.
 
Oh, I believe in science.

There's the somewhat famous story about how some scientists "proved" that bumble bees cannot fly. Yet they do.

Really?


You now made up a new rationalization for yourself as to why you use cut paste on azalea. At least I achieved something.

Love the circular reasoning in your last post, though. Species matters because you don't use cut paste on pine.
 
This whole thread, I've been discussing putting cut paste on azalea.

Maybe you've been discussing cut paste on other trees. I don't know. I advocate using TopJin cut paste on azalea. I don't use it on pines. I sometimes use the putty stuff on pines. Sometimes not.

I also use the putty stuff on other trees, like maples and zelkova. They're more vigorous "healers", and don't appear to dieback as bad as azalea. So the TopJin doesn't appear to be necessary.
 
Ok, so I went and found the article you referenced. Not easy to find.

It was done research published in 1986, and they used red oak, red maple, beech, and birch trees as their subjects. The wound dressings were the black tar treatments. They made chops and drilled bore holes in trunks. Pruning cuts appeared to be the kind where entire limbs were cut off flush to the trunk.

No tests were done on azalea.

They did mention that rot is primarily due to fungus infestion.

I haven't had time to do a careful reading, but I'm pretty sure they didn't take the time to carefully seal the cuts the way we do with bonsai. And they certainly didn't use TopJin. TopJin has antifungal ingredients which should help retard fungal infections, the primary cause of rot.

I'm sorry, this proof, has too many variables that are different from the subject of how to treat an azalea that has been lopped.
 
What relevance does this have to insisting that cut paste is necessary?

I suppose it could be the basis for insisting that everyone must varnish their azaleas, but otherwise it leaves me wondering.
Huh? :confused:
Well, there's little protection between the nasty fungus and the cambium.

As I've said, I'm no botanist. I'm just a guy trying to do bonsai. I have found I have good results using TopJin on azalea as I was taught to do by someone trained in Japan. Before I started doing this, I had poor results. I'm just trying to share something that works for me.

Some guy comes on here and tells me that it's all bs. Heck, maybe it is. But his evidence is based on a different species and not using the cut paste I'm using. I can see how the cut treatments used in the study could be harmful, they're basically tar. I'm not using tar.

Therefore, I'm going to go forward using the results I have been having as opposed to using the results of that study.

I think that's only reasonable.

I'm not saying he's not smart or well meaning, but he's trying to apply research done on one type of tree using sealants to an entirely different type of woody material sealed with an entirely different type of sealant.

If he wants to test it and prove me wrong, he can. I probably won't still be alive when the results are in one way or the other.
 
I can see how the cut treatments used in the study could be harmful, they're basically tar.

Honest, I have used the tar type pruning sealant that they used in my old Fruit orchard at the old place on LARGE Azalea chops when flat topped to seal and reduce rot. It worked back then and am pretty certain it would again in the future. Then again so would a lot of sealants for the type of cut I am referring to.

Grimmy
 
You should not use the fact that plants compartmentalize damaged tissue as a reason to avoid using sealer in bonsai at least in some cases. The die back problem with azaleas is due to sap withdrawal not disease (in the vast majority of cases. There is some ''evidence'' from my own observations that sealing the cut area from the open air has some effect on slowing down the desiccation of the wound and so possibly enabling the plant to form new pathways to feed the area which is no longer receiving nutrients from above and (now) below it. That is just a theory of course, but there does appear to be a difference from what I've seen.
However the difference between not sealing and sealing wounds can be massive in some instances. The main but not the only) reason sealing is used in bonsai is to accelerate the covering of the wound with new tissue. There is no doubt whatsoever that this occurs. Cells seem to grow at a much greater rate under a seal as opposed to in the open. Possibly because no bark tissue needs to be formed? Or, it could be because they just replicate faster in a moister environment? Whatever it is it certainly works.
Another reason to use it is to help reduce the likelihood of fungal spores or bacteria germinating on the surface of the cut. I've seen for myself Quince develop severe rot on every cut made in a matter of 3 days. The rot quickly progressed down the stem (about 1cm) before I noticed it. After recutting and sealing there were no further issues. So in this case, compartmentalization was not fast enough.
Cherries and Quince (at least) should have their cuts made with clean tools and sealed quickly as their wood is extremely susceptible to infection. I rarely seal all cuts but I do on Azaleas, Quince, Cherries, and Maples for various reasons and on any tree where I want the wound to cover over as quickly as possible.
So all in all, given the above reasons, IMO you are better off sealing than not.
 
Hey jphipps, what's happening to this azalea? Still alive? How about some pics.
CW
 
Here is the Azalea today. Popping new growth everywhere. No dieback to be seen as of yet. Should I let this grow out completely this entire season and then do some selective pruning next spring? Curious what everyone's thoughts are about the next step. My gut would tell me to leave it be for quite some time.
 

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I would let it go another season. No need to cut anything today.
 
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