Japanese Maple Mikawa Yatsubusa

ForrestW

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I acquired this tree from a friend 2 years ago in a large nursery pot. I could see a decent flare at the base but did not know how deep it went and it was just after leaf flush, so all I did on year one was pull down the branches a little as there is a lot of gap between the base and the first branch. In the spring I repotted it into an oversized bonsai pot and cut back some really large roots from its time as a field grown tree, and the did some very minimal wiring just moving some small branches down.

My hope was to repot it this spring and give it direction, but would like any opinions folks are willing to share.

The first few photos are from year one, and then the third picture is what I "think" would be the front, however the next photo shows some nice roots a little deeper on the right and I think I will change the potting angle based on what looks like will give it the best root base. The fourth photo shows about what I think that angle would be. If I went that way I would have to decide on the direction to take the branching next. Initially I was pulling the branches down to better fill in the big gap between the strong flare at the base and the first branches. However I am not wanting to leave that arch shape and do tend to like more natural branch structures better. The last photo just shows another perspective of the tree and you can see where are few larger branches were removed after it came out of the field.

I could also repot, but put into a growing bed for 4-5 years and try and develop some larger branches and some more height but that could also make an even bigger root base, and with the high graft line I am not sure that is best.

Any thought or opinions are welcome.
Thanks Rob
 

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Applicative

Sapling
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I find the last photo (067) to be a very interesting aesthetic with the curve and the lower branch pushing back. Very graceful without the leaves.
 

19Mateo83

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If it was my tree I would be looking to get it on its own roots. This would be my approach. Air layer off the top at the blue line just above the graft and change the planting angle a bit. Being mikawa it should air layer very easily. Also you can use that lowest branch for a sacrificial to help thicken the trunk and in the future air layer it off for a second tree.
IMG_0496.jpeg
 

ForrestW

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If it was my tree I would be looking to get it on its own roots. This would be my approach. Air layer off the top at the blue line just above the graft and change the planting angle a bit. Being mikawa it should air layer very easily. Also you can use that lowest branch for a sacrificial to help thicken the trunk and in the future air layer it off for a second tree.
View attachment 523908
Thanks for the idea-- I had really not considered air layering it based in the height, but it could just be a smaller tree after air layers-- or more years to grow it a little taller. Thanks for the suggestion.
 

dbonsaiw

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Sweet tree. I definitely hear Mateo's advice. The graft also doesn't seem too bad and I kinda like the trunk.
 

ForrestW

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I appreciate the thoughts-- I am curious if someone can share a little about the down side to the graft. I understand that it can be visually unsightly, but a good graft can also be fairly blended in. On this species does the graft tend to get more noticeable or unsightly over time, or does the bark texture/ color match more in older age?
Thanks
 

19Mateo83

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I appreciate the thoughts-- I am curious if someone can share a little about the down side to the graft. I understand that it can be visually unsightly, but a good graft can also be fairly blended in. On this species does the graft tend to get more noticeable or unsightly over time, or does the bark texture/ color match more in older age?
Thanks
I would think since mikawa is a slower growing cultivar and the root stock is a regular green maple there is a possibility of the root stock getting thicker faster than the mikawa like below. On the other hand, sometimes it blends in and is eventually not noticeable. Kinda one of those “time will tell” situations.
IMG_0519.jpeg
 

NateDyk47

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I would think since mikawa is a slower growing cultivar and the root stock is a regular green maple there is a possibility of the root stock getting thicker faster than the mikawa like below. On the other hand, sometimes it blends in and is eventually not noticeable. Kinda one of those “time will tell” situations.
Every large Mikawa Yatsubusa I've seen at nurseries looks like this. I'm not sure if the graft would stay relatively unnoticeable if you grow it in a pot, but from what I've seen this cultivar tends to grow slower than the rootstock.
 
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