Shibui repotting 2022

Shibui

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Location
Yackandandah, Australia
USDA Zone
9?
Spring is approaching more rapidly than anticipated down here so the pressure mounts to get necessary repotting done soon.
This afternoon I had time to do a couple of Japanese maples that have become root bound.

After repot
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Nebari and fingers for scale.
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Too dark to take good photos of the larger tree today. I'll try to update tomorrow.
 
Spring is approaching more rapidly than anticipated down here so the pressure mounts to get necessary repotting done soon.
This afternoon I had time to do a couple of Japanese maples that have become root bound.

After repot
View attachment 452267

Nebari and fingers for scale.
View attachment 452268

Too dark to take good photos of the larger tree today. I'll try to update tomorrow.
Nice. To my relatively untrained eye, your soil looks to be fairly organic heavy. What are you using [and why]?
 
Thanks for sharing @Shibui! I’ve made my way through most of my JMs and tridents, some already have 10-15cm extensions!
Even over here elevation makes quite a difference. My nearest large town - Albury/Wodonga is a couple of weeks ahead of us up here in the hills.
Nice. To my relatively untrained eye, your soil looks to be fairly organic heavy. What are you using [and why]?
Good eye.
I've just picked up a new batch of potting soil from my supplier. I use around 4 cubic metres a year so not practical to mix my own, not to mention the science involved in making good potting soil.
This latest mix appears to have more fines than ever before. Seems to be more fibre in the organic (pine bark) component than usual. I guess that's just a part of relying on outside suppliers. Pretty sure I can manage the trees in the mix I have.

I have always used a high pine bark mix. Attempts to use more inorganic were not pretty. Maybe that reflects my relatively hot, dry summers but I've always recommended matching the soil to your conditions rather than trying to match culture and conditions to any particular soil.
 
As promised, pics of the other JM that I repotted yesterday.
View attachment 452381View attachment 452382

If you'd care to dispute the soil mix this one was grown from seed by me here using similar soil.............
Beautiful tree, out of interest, how long did it take?
Also what's your avg temperatures like?
 
Beautiful tree, out of interest, how long did it take?
That's one of my first attempts at Japanese maple style. Probably started from seed around 30 years ago???
Of course the initial trunks and branching can be achieved much sooner but appearance of age and developing ramification takes a bit longer. It hasn't changed much in the last 10 -15 years.

Also what's your avg temperatures like?
How does one define average temps? We have hot, dry summers - max daytime occasionally up to 43C but 40C is regular in summer. Winter minimums get down just below freezing most nights for 2-3 months. We had light frost on the grass this morning. You can probably look up temp records for Yackandandah, Australia if you need more info.

I guess this will be unpopular but I would be tempted to layer the top off and rebuild the trunks.
The central trunk is tall and it has some lumps due to not understanding JM development properly during development stages so I have considered layering, chopping and a few other measures to rectify. Looking carefully the upper part of that trunk has too many faults to make another small tree so I would not bother wasting time with layering.
I've looked and looked for a suitable spot to chop and replace the top but the current branching up there does not seem to offer good options so I haven't gone there.
I guess we tend to see our own trees as they are rather than as they could be, especially older ones like this. Maybe a new owner could make that decision easier but I'm happy to live with the faults and the development story behind them.
 
That's one of my first attempts at Japanese maple style. Probably started from seed around 30 years ago???
Of course the initial trunks and branching can be achieved much sooner but appearance of age and developing ramification takes a bit longer. It hasn't changed much in the last 10 -15 years.


How does one define average temps? We have hot, dry summers - max daytime occasionally up to 43C but 40C is regular in summer. Winter minimums get down just below freezing most nights for 2-3 months. We had light frost on the grass this morning. You can probably look up temp records for Yackandandah, Australia if you need more info.


The central trunk is tall and it has some lumps due to not understanding JM development properly during development stages so I have considered layering, chopping and a few other measures to rectify. Looking carefully the upper part of that trunk has too many faults to make another small tree so I would not bother wasting time with layering.
I've looked and looked for a suitable spot to chop and replace the top but the current branching up there does not seem to offer good options so I haven't gone there.
I guess we tend to see our own trees as they are rather than as they could be, especially older ones like this. Maybe a new owner could make that decision easier but I'm happy to live with the faults and the development story behind them.
Our climate here in my region is really close to yours, the difference beign during winter we don't go bellow freezing. Everybody uses at least 25% organic in their mix, that organic part beign pine bark, potting soil, or both. It's either that or if you choose to go 100% inorganic you will have to water 3 times a day on summer. I use 1 1 1, pine bark, crushed bricks and perlite, and it still needs water 2 times per day during summer some times.
 
That's one of my first attempts at Japanese maple style. Probably started from seed around 30 years ago???
Of course the initial trunks and branching can be achieved much sooner but appearance of age and developing ramification takes a bit longer. It hasn't changed much in the last 10 -15 years.


How does one define average temps? We have hot, dry summers - max daytime occasionally up to 43C but 40C is regular in summer. Winter minimums get down just below freezing most nights for 2-3 months. We had light frost on the grass this morning. You can probably look up temp records for Yackandandah, Australia if you need more info.


The central trunk is tall and it has some lumps due to not understanding JM development properly during development stages so I have considered layering, chopping and a few other measures to rectify. Looking carefully the upper part of that trunk has too many faults to make another small tree so I would not bother wasting time with layering.
I've looked and looked for a suitable spot to chop and replace the top but the current branching up there does not seem to offer good options so I haven't gone there.
I guess we tend to see our own trees as they are rather than as they could be, especially older ones like this. Maybe a new owner could make that decision easier but I'm happy to live with the faults and the development story behind them.
10 to 15 years is not bad, not every tree has to be a show tree i guess, besides comparing to my trees, i would kill for one like that. Also was this tree always container grown?
Yea, i tried googling the area to get an idea of the temperatures but the ranges was as wide as the ones you provided. I was just wondering how it compares to my own region...ps your's is much hotter.
In these temperatures, do you keep these trees under shade net/in dabbled shade or out in the full sun?
 
Also was this tree always container grown?
That is testing my memory. I can't recall digging this from the grow beds but the trunk is quite thick so I'm inclined to believe it has at least been in larger grow pots if not in the ground for a couple of years but not entirely sure.

The previous tree in post #1 is certainly container grown as I've attempted to contain the upper trunk thickening and lumps.
 
A box of new pots arrived today from Bad Swan pottery in West Australia.
I always seem to have trees waiting for pots so it wasn't hard to find something to fit most of them.

Root over rock trident maple
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Twin trunk trident with dead wood
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Roadside collected Olive
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Couldn't find a tree for this on so it will sit on the shelf for a while.
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Another box of pots from another Aussie potter so a few more little trees have new shoes.

Buxus harlandii
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Juniper chinensis - Shimpaku
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Pyracantha
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And a trident maple.
It's a fraction later than usual trident repotting time but I'm confident this one will be OK
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Shibui, thanks for sharing. Question - So it's time to repot and I take the tree out of the pot and comb out roots and then cut them back. How much do you typically cut the roots back? Stated differently, if I am still growing out the tree, how much room do I leave after the repot for roots to run?

For a specific example, I'll be repotting a seiju elm into a bonsai pot next spring. The plastic pot it's currently in is 15X12X3 and I'll be moving the tree into a pot 13X11X2. So not only do I need to reduce the roots to get it to fit in the new pot, I need to reduce it further so the roots have space to run. How much of a root system should remain after the repot?
 
So it's time to repot and I take the tree out of the pot and comb out roots and then cut them back. How much do you typically cut the roots back? Stated differently, if I am still growing out the tree, how much room do I leave after the repot for roots to run?
As usual the answer is 'it depends'
Different species tolerate more or less root pruning. Trident maples, banksia, Chinese elm can all be root pruned very hard, up to 90% root removal for healthy young trees. Pines and oaks don't grow new roots quite so well so typically only take 50-70% except for seedlings.
Younger trees seem to have greater tolerance for root pruning. Most seedlings can have almost all roots removed and will quickly grow replacements. Even pine seedlings can cope with 90% root reduction. Older trees should have less removed.
Stage of development can also influence how much to root prune. Chopping roots harder allows lots of new roots so the trees will grow more and faster following hard root pruning. Lighter root prune gives less new soil and less room for roots to grow so growth will be slightly restricted.
Take pot/tree size into account too. Many of my older trees now have thick base (also down under the soil in the pot) so there's actually relatively few roots in the pots and little space for new roots so I root prune less on those trees.
For a specific example, I'll be repotting a seiju elm into a bonsai pot next spring. The plastic pot it's currently in is 15X12X3 and I'll be moving the tree into a pot 13X11X2. So not only do I need to reduce the roots to get it to fit in the new pot, I need to reduce it further so the roots have space to run. How much of a root system should remain after the repot?
Chinese elm tolerate root pruning well so don't be afraid to cut hard there.
typical Chinese elm that has not been root pruned well previously will have just a few long, thick roots. Initial root prune can take off 90% of roots. Many new roots will grow from the cut ends giving better root ramification and increasing the number of fine feeder roots. Ramification is far better when starting close to the trunk so I make initial root chops closer than 1 trunk thickness out on all major roots.
How much is left depends what you fin under the soil and the size of the trunk but it is not unusual for me to reduce Seiju roots by 90% at initial repots. I doubt you'll go that hard but it may alleviate some of your concerns.
All Chinese elm vars, including Seiju, grow well from root cuttings so keep and good sections of root and start some new Seiju.
 
Chinese elm tolerate root pruning well so don't be afraid to cut hard there.
typical Chinese elm that has not been root pruned well previously will have just a few long, thick roots. Initial root prune can take off 90% of roots. Many new roots will grow from the cut ends giving better root ramification and increasing the number of fine feeder roots. Ramification is far better when starting close to the trunk so I make initial root chops closer than 1 trunk thickness out on all major roots.
How much is left depends what you fin under the soil and the size of the trunk but it is not unusual for me to reduce Seiju roots by 90% at initial repots. I doubt you'll go that hard but it may alleviate some of your concerns.
All Chinese elm vars, including Seiju, grow well from root cuttings so keep and good sections of root and start some new Seiju.
Much appreciated.
 
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