Should I trunk chop and if so when?

[capoeira turtle]

this is a pine bark maple from Mendocino maples .com. Maybe 7 years old and I didn’t originally intend for it to be trained for bonsai. It has a decent taper at the bottom below the graft but I didn’t get it at a good angle to show it off. It obviously doesn’t have a nice taper higher up the trunk and is becoming large and cylindrical shaped.

 

[19Mateo83]

Welcome to the nut house!

 

[namnhi]

View attachment 428964View attachment 428965this is a pine bark maple from Mendocino maples .com. Maybe 7 years old and I didn’t originally intend for it to be trained for bonsai. It has a decent taper at the bottom below the graft but I didn’t get it at a good angle to show it off. It obviously doesn’t have a nice taper higher up the trunk and is becoming large and cylindrical shaped.

Look into air layer. I would do that at the wiggle part then trunk chop.

 

[capoeira turtle]

Welcome to the nut house!

 

[19Mateo83]

Look into air layer. I would do that at the wiggle part then trunk chop.

+1 on this. Then you get two trees for the price of one.

 

[SeanS]

Because it’s grafted and a pine bark variety, chopping it down to create a bonsai would mean you’d have regular non-pine bark on the lower trunk and nebari and then pine bark above the graft. Not a favourable trait for a bonsai.

As suggested you should air layer above the graft if you want to create a pine bark maple bonsai and then possibly use the regular JM root stock left over to create another non-pine park bonsai, provided there are viable buds below the graft.

 

[Potawatomi13]

Because it’s grafted and a pine bark variety, chopping it down to create a bonsai would mean you’d have regular non-pine bark on the lower trunk and nebari and then pine bark above the graft. Not a favourable trait for a bonsai.

. Revert to original purpose for tree.

 

[Shibui]

It is a named variety so that's the only reason I would consider layering. There is very little about this tree that says bonsai to me so other than a named variety I would not waste the time on layering.
The graft is good. No undue swelling, clean taper to the trunk and no real difference in bark color. The green bark of the current trunk will turn brown as it ages. All that means that the graft alone is not sufficient reason to remove the graft. Consider layering if the nebari is not good (from the pic it seems there are 2 larger roots so not good nebari but there may be better spread below the soil) Consider layering if you want to change trunk angle and current roots won't allow the tilt. Otherwise that graft is no problem.

I don't like chopping JM in spring. I've had too many bad experiences with infection, die back and roots dying at that time of year. In my experience, late spring, summer or just after the leaves fall are much safer.

 

[capoeira turtle]

and then possibly use the regular JM root stock left over to create another non-pine park bonsai, provided there are viable buds below the graft.

The graft is ridiculously low. Maybe only an inch and or two above root level

 

[Shibui]

The graft is ridiculously low. Maybe only an inch and or two above root level

Exactly!
Unobtrusive, clean and probably grafted with bonsai in mind.
Grafts do not exclude use for bonsai, only poor grafts.

 

[SeanS]

But it’s a pine bark cultivar so we aren’t just talking about the graft itself, we’re talking about the fact that for the first inch or two above the nebari, and the nebari itself, you’ll have regular smooth bark, and then for the rest of the tree you’ll have rough pine tree bark.
Won’t that look pretty strange and unsightly?

 

[Potawatomi13]

But it’s a pine bark cultivar so we aren’t just talking about the graft itself, we’re talking about the fact that for the first inch or two above the nebari, and the nebari itself, you’ll have regular smooth bark, and then for the rest of the tree you’ll have rough pine tree bark.
Won’t that look pretty strange and unsightly?

Perfectly correct. At best likely would have reverse taper. Then what reason for graft instead of cutting or layer? Perhaps weak root system or tree weak on own roots? Tree was grafted for likely good reason.

 

[Potawatomi13]

Exactly!
Unobtrusive, clean and probably grafted with bonsai in mind.
Grafts do not exclude use for bonsai, only poor grafts.

Not so at all. Plenty obtrusive and only getting more so as tree ages. Trunk of tree is normally main focal point. At very foundation tree will have Glaring fault for entire life unless buried. Cork bark pines no exception as most look faulted and unacceptable AFAIC!

 

[sorce]

View attachment images (1).mp4

That might not pass the sniff test.

Welcome to Crazy!

Sorce

 

[capoeira turtle]

Perfectly correct. At best likely would have reverse taper. Then what reason for graft instead of cutting or layer? Perhaps weak root system or tree weak on own roots? Tree was grafted for likely good reason.

I forgot to mention I air layered two branches about two years ago just for giggles and I was amazed at how easy it was and how vigorous the roots were. Those two layers are doing great and I checked the roots recently and there is a perfect spread of dense and bushy feeder roots on both