Is this cedar apple rust?

[jandslegate]

This is the only tree in my garden that has this on ii, so far at least.

 

[penumbra]

I would say yes. I am more used to seeing it during rain when it looks like long, drippy orange snot.

 

[jandslegate]

I would say yes. I am more used to seeing it during rain when it looks like long, drippy orange snot.

So would it be worth attempting to treat or is this a RIP tree scenario?

 

[badatusernames]

I believe you need to cut off the impacted areas but wait until someone else confirms before breaking out the weed whacker.

Bjorn recommends Immunox - active ingredient is myclobutanil, if you can't find Immunox something else should have it. 2 TBSP per gallon, sprayed every 7-10 days. This would be the time of year he recommends doing this, so at least you have that going for you!

 

[penumbra]

Immunox is an effective treatment. Last year I had ACR on a couple small hawthorn. I cut off what I could without too much disfigurment and sprayed it with 50/50 peroxide and water. It worked but it was a small sampling.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

That works for me too. Normally I do cutback afterwards a hit with peroxide, then follow with copper fungicide, repeated every 3 months afterwards. (Wear gloves and goggles please!)

I had two that were affected by apple rust. . Both inherited. One was really far gone, and didn’t make it through the next summer the other just sporatic. After two years of treatment it hasn’t shown up for three years and I have about a dozen other junipers. During winter it helps to keep these trees out of a closely packed storage area and in a semi sunny area with a little breeze to keep them drier.

Also helps to keep the tree away from any prunus sp. Hawthorn, crab etc. They will pass this disease around.

cheers
DSD sends

 

[AJL]

The disease alternates between Apples, Crab Apples, sometimes hawthorn then Junipers and Cedars
but not Prunus spp
See attached link for more info and control methods:-https://gardenerspath.com/how-to/disease-and-pests/cedar-apple-rust-control/

 

[jandslegate]

Thanks everyone for the input. Heck of a season opener for me, heh. I've managed to go all the way til now without having a major issue like this. I have several crabs and a hawthorn. I only found signs of it on one other juniper thus far. I did the 50/50 peroxide approach today because that was what I had on hand. Ironically the crabs which are normally riddled with early spring ailments are thriving this year. I sprayed all vulnerable trees and if it doesn't seem to improve I'll pick up some immunox.

I really hope I don't lose one of these as I've had it for quite a few years and as meager as my skills are it's what I'd consider my best or most promising tree. And although it doesn't compare really we had to put our family dog down last week almost immediately after getting home from vacation. I understand 'the way of all flesh' but I really feel like I've let go of enough for the moment.

Sorry to get overly dramatic. I'm sure you guys have been there before though.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

So would it be worth attempting to treat or is this a RIP tree scenario?

I believe you need to cut off the impacted areas but wait until someone else confirms before breaking out the weed whacker.

Bjorn recommends Immunox - active ingredient is myclobutanil, if you can't find Immunox something else should have it. 2 TBSP per gallon, sprayed every 7-10 days. This would be the time of year he recommends doing this, so at least you have that going for you!

Yes, worth treating. Especially if the tree you are treating has some years of your effort into it. If an inexpensive recent acquisition, disposal is always an option.

When buying young junipers and cedars for future bonsai use, do pay attention to any notes about pest and disease resistance. One of the reasons Shimpaku is so popular is because it is more resistant of the various rusts than a number of other juniper species. There are different Apple and Pear cultivars that have some resistance also to rusts. Pay attention to disease resistance as you increase the size of your collection.

I would follow Bjorn's recommendation for fungicide. BUT READ LABELS. Make sure the chemical is one you feel comfortable handling.

And of course, sourcing agro chemicals is not easy, I found www.hummert.com easy to work with and they have a full line of chemicals. I used to own a farm, and the product line up at Hummert was similar to my wholesale only farm supply outlet. You could not buy at the farm supply unless you were a registered farm.

Read. The Ag Extension sites have a lot of information. Every state in USA has an Ag Extension Service, use their websites. Lots of good local information.

 

[jandslegate]

Yes, worth treating. Especially if the tree you are treating has some years of your effort into it. If an inexpensive recent acquisition, disposal is always an option.

When buying young junipers and cedars for future bonsai use, do pay attention to any notes about pest and disease resistance. One of the reasons Shimpaku is so popular is because it is more resistant of the various rusts than a number of other juniper species. There are different Apple and Pear cultivars that have some resistance also to rusts. Pay attention to disease resistance as you increase the size of your collection.

I would follow Bjorn's recommendation for fungicide. BUT READ LABELS. Make sure the chemical is one you feel comfortable handling.

And of course, sourcing agro chemicals is not easy, I found www.hummert.com easy to work with and they have a full line of chemicals. I used to own a farm, and the product line up at Hummert was similar to my wholesale only farm supply outlet. You could not buy at the farm supply unless you were a registered farm.

Read. The Ag Extension sites have a lot of information. Every state in USA has an Ag Extension Service, use their websites. Lots of good local information.

We're planning on visiting him soon. If nothing else I'll have a topical story when we do.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

I'll be in Indianapolis Friday, come to think of it that is half way to Bjorn's from my house, I should consider adding a day or two to my trip and visit Bjorn too. I'll have to look into whether my check book can afford a visit to a Bonsai nursery. LOL.

 

[jandslegate]

I'll be in Indianapolis Friday, come to think of it that is half way to Bjorn's from my house, I should consider adding a day or two to my trip and visit Bjorn too. I'll have to look into whether my check book can afford a visit to a Bonsai nursery. LOL.

I was surprisingly disciplined at Wigert's when we were on vacation. But yeah you can do some real damage at Bjorn's.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

The disease alternates between Apples, Crab Apples, sometimes hawthorn then Junipers and Cedars but not Prunus spp See attached link for more info and control methods:-https://gardenerspath.com/how-to/disease-and-pests/cedar-apple-rust-control/

Ooos, Yep hat would correctly be Cupressaceae and Rosaceae Families!, so lots of other hosts!

Cedar-apple rust and related rust diseases

How do cedar apple rust and related rust fungi survive and spread?

extension.umn.edu

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Ooos, Yep hat would correctly be Cupressaceae and Rosaceae Families!, so lots of other hosts!

Cedar-apple rust and related rust diseases

How do cedar apple rust and related rust fungi survive and spread?

extension.umn.edu

Cheers
DSD sends

The article linked by DSD is exactly the sort of info the Extension Services are good for. Great link.

 

[jandslegate]

I agree. I actually feel way better about things now.

The article linked by DSD is exactly the sort of info the Extension Services are good for. Grea

 

[Joe Dupre']

The Eastern Red Cedar in my avatar had a bad case of it a couple of years ago on the lowest right-hand branch. I painted pure Fertilome 3 in 1 on it and it went away. A couple of weeks ago, a small patch of it reappeared and I did the same procedure. It's gone again. No lasting damage that I can see.

 

[James W.]

Worth treating as a fungus but I am not positive-sure it is cedar-apple rust. On junipers (and some other evergreen) it forms a gall that exudes nasty gelatinous fruiting bodies. In landscape trees is does very little damage. I would not bother pruning it off unless I saw a gall forming but I have never seen one form on any of my little trees. Lots of it in the yard trees and I treat my crabapples preemptively.

 

[penumbra]

it forms a gall that exudes nasty gelatinous fruiting bodies.

In wet weather, particularly while it is raining ^^^

In landscape trees is does very little damage

This may or may not be the case, it depends on many factors. It can be devastating on apples. And you sure don't want to lose a branch to it on a bonsai you have been working on for years ^^^

I would not bother pruning it off unless I saw a gall forming

By this time it is too late and it is producing spores ^^^

You know, it is whatever works for you. What is your comfort level? I am always concerned when I see it in my neck of the woods. I have two hawthorn that are half the size they were a year ago because I waited too long. I would prefer to listen to someone for whom it has caused a problem before I followed someone who thinks its not a big deal. This is my take, mileage may vary.

 

[Frozentreehugger]

For me . I live in a known area of cedar apple rust aggressive problem . Apples are fairly heavily farmed here . ( the Macintosh apple was discovered growing wild about 10 miles from my house . ) and the original orchard is still running . The major juniper host here is ERC . So my number one defence is n my air the choice one or the other . I like apple . So I have no ERC . And only a few shimpaku . I have collected in the past common needle juniper . And will again if I find one. But there very rust resistant But bottom line . Put things in your favour . Junipers that are sensitive to the rust . Or apple and related trees . Pests and disease are tough enough . But things in your favour .

 

[Shogun610]

Yep , rust it’s like juniper herpes , you can treat it but it will always be in the trees system , applying copper fungicide can suppress that symptom through the year