All aboard the Mugo train!

As far as I am concerned the Mugo Pine is the best Pine for bonsai. As far as debudding a tree I will debud a tree that I have repotted the same year if the tree looks healthy.
What about this bowtie technique right now As well? Or is that too much work at once since repot?. I'd imagine if the tree was not repotted this year we could de bud and bowtie trim at the same time. or in @sorce case just cut the downward needles. I think I have a few that could benefit from this
 
I will do the bow tie technique mostly in the beginning of summer but not as agressively this late in season with a freshly repoted tree. Exception woud be for a tree that seems to be very vigorous. Personally I think I would do it myself anyway but I would hesitate to tell you to do so.
 
Affirmative Vance. So the ones that didn't get a repot can be a pushed a little harder.... seems we can work mugos a little more than other pines. Chalk that up to the list of reasons I'm digging these mugos. Granted it's only been 2 or 3 seasons with them it's all making sense now.
 
update on my ticket to ride, bought this ticket 8/6/2015, you can see the original on page 14 post 275. It is a generic nursery mugo, probably var. pumilo.

I removed a few branches, cut terminal buds on strong branches in autumn 2015, removed up and down needles on strong branches, left weak ones alone. It had been repotted by previous owner in spring of 2015 so I left it alone as far as root work goes. He used a lava, pumice, & akadama blend that still drains quite nicely. I don't like repotting too often, I think frequent repotting can weaken trees or at least slow them down. I'll repot 2017 or 2018. Need to change trunk angle when I do a repot.

So long term I think a semi-cascade is in order. I have a nice square YiXing pot for this. Plan to plant it deeper to bury the 2 legged nebari. I might even use a wire tourniquette, above the 2 fat roots, and try to force it to root out above the two ugly roots. The apex is guide wired up a little, this autumn I'll do a proper wire job and get the branches placed better.

All in all, I'm happy with the limited progress it made. I did remove maybe 20% of the original branches, you can hardly tell, it has filled in nicely, mostly in the right places. Still needs a lot of future ramification. Moved it to live on the farm in MI because my IL yard is too shady. Seems to appreciate it. IMG_20160831_114713_106-1-1.jpg
 
Are you able to wire young MPs to begin to give the young trunks movement. Not unlike JBPs? If so, is it recommended to do that wiring in the fall?
 
Are you able to wire young MPs to begin to give the young trunks movement. Not unlike JBPs? If so, is it recommended to do that wiring in the fall?
You can wire trunks if you can find trunks on even a young Mugos that can be wired. It is uncommon to find a Mugo with a very large trunk without digging through hundreds of trees. It too is almost impossible to find small single trunk Mugos that you have not grown from seed. Most Mugos tend to form multiple trunks in the beginning and that's why they are so popular for yard trees trimmed into balls and globes.

The little Mugo below was the end result of a wiring job run-a-muk. The trunk became scared because I did not pay attention to what was going on at the time. The tree was wired in the Spring and cut in quickly.

The old expression if the world hands you lemmons make lemonade. The image below this is the result of trying to make something out of nothing. In this case the wire scars healed up pretty well and gave the trunk a characteristic not easily obtained by normal means. The twisted and gnarled trunk made an interesting Shohin along with the dead wood. It's not done yet.

Direct reference to your question: It is uncommon to find a single trunk Mugo in the nursery trade. Most of my Mugo bonsai have been the product of eliminating multiple trunks to find one good trunk to make into a bonsai.

ShohinMugoB.jpg

ShohinMugo copy.jpg
 
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Here is the MP in question (I suppose it also serves as my ticket on the Mugo Train;)). It's so small and young, I thought maybe throwing some wire at it might create some interest in the trunk. TBH, @Vance Wood, I think your previous post is a great example as to why one might want to wire! I think the wire scars give the trunk a cool look that will most likely change over time, no?20160905_134059763_iOS.jpg 20160905_134105567_iOS.jpg
 
If you are going to try to do something lik that on this tree I would remove all but the one trunk I intended to wire. Once you do that you will have to let tbe tree rest for a couple of years. Most people would not be so willing to have the wire cut into the trunk, or admit that this is what they intended. I am loath to tell you to do that, I am already a parriah in many peoples eyes. I will however smile in my hat if you pull it off successfully.
 
You would be OK to cut it now but leave a substantial stub on both trunks.
 
My little Mugo that I got late in the season for a song. I'm pretty sure that it's on Scots Pine rootstock, which should make it winter hardy. It seems to like direct sunlight, but other than 3 weeks of the year (last 2 in July, 1st week of August) we don't deal with the heat most of this board would. It seems to attract lady bugs, which is great for me because I breed different hot peppers and the aphids LOVE pepper plants; they seem to use it as their rallying point throughout the garden. Other than a root prune and repot, and a bit of guy-wire reshaping I didn't do more because I didn't want to stress the tree... in hindsight I could have done whatever I would have liked, because it seems to like the attention. Sorry for the less-than-great picture, but it is raining and I didn't have the extra time to do a bang up job of photographing it (Plus they don't photograph well when they are in this stage of growth anyway). Mugo Pine "Big Tuna" for Canadians; I think they are developed in Alberta for the Canadian market... if any go to the States, I doubt they would use the same name. I have read that they are pretty much bullet-proof, but not much of what I read translates accurately to my area... probably because of the severe winters.
 

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You would be OK to cut it now but leave a substantial stub on both trunks.

Well...not completely sure this is what I had in mind when I started, but I think I like it:):). Or, at least I think it's a decent start...20160905_134059763_iOS.jpg
Now to let is rest...for a while. Thanks for your guidance, @Vance Wood !!
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Direct reference to your question: It is uncommon to find a single trunk Mugo in the nursery trade. Most of my Mugo bonsai have been the product of eliminating multiple trunks to find one good trunk to make into a bonsai.

I was going to buy 2 -3 this past Spring and was not fast enough to return to get more. The purpose was to see if I could grow and Winter them here before buying larger. It turned out there is a total of four little ones in this pot 3 of which are single trunk.
My question is when would be a "safe" time to separate them with the highest success rate? I am not familiar with any Pines and doing ok with this starter as they are growing and doing good.
Thanks in advance -

Grimmy
 
A lot of it depends on how intertwined they all are. I would wait till next Fathers Day weekend or the Summer solstice--- the week of. Let me know when you are going to do it and I will try to talk you through the process. How is it that you think you have three seperate trees?
 
How is it that you think you have three seperate trees?

Your expertise precedes you! I went out to photo it and looking closely and tugging each one individually they all moved :oops: I then took a stainless chopstick and confirmed there is a multi-trunk in there :rolleyes: I was concentrating so much on keeping my first crack at any pine alive I really never noticed!

Thank you!

Grimmy
 
That does not mean you cannot seperate them. I have done that. You just have to have the courage to saw through the trunk/trunks. Keep the tree where it gets enough water especially when it's hot like today, and hot like it gets in Pa. Both time I have been to Gettysburg it was in triple digits. Mugos like more water than most Pines. Don't be afraid to mulch the pots so the roots don't cook.
 
Looking at the tree one more time, you have this little guy in a pond basket? If so the size of it seems to suggest the tree could do fine in it for a number of years without trouble.
 
That does not mean you cannot seperate them. I have done that. You just have to have the courage to saw through the trunk/trunks. Keep the tree where it gets enough water especially when it's hot like today, and hot like it gets in Pa. Both time I have been to Gettysburg it was in triple digits. Mugos like more water than most Pines. Don't be afraid to mulch the pots so the roots don't cook.

Yes, I noticed it likes a good amount of water here, three times daily is not uncommon. I have had some success separating Junipers in the fashion you describe and will more then likely try it on this clump as it is an experimental plant. You are correct on the weather here and even if the heat is in the high eighties or low nineties the UV Index is so high it makes your skin tingle no matter how used to sun you are. I am fortunate to be retired though and have the time and patience to learn new plants. Thank you!

Grimmy
 
Looking at the tree one more time, you have this little guy in a pond basket? If so the size of it seems to suggest the tree could do fine in it for a number of years without trouble.
If you are referring to my pictures above, yes, it is in a pond basket. My plan is to let it grow.
 
Choo Choo! Have some progress, questions, and possible plan.

Question: Is there a solution to girdling roots that have started to fuse with the trunk? Should I just plan to moss the base if I ever intend to show it?

What I'm working with:
unnamed.jpg

And my virt/plan for the tree.. Does this seem feasible? I know it's many years out..

Mugovirt.png
 
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