Extended season starting trees indoors

Those Pines are outrageous, super impressive, keep it up. My red pines have started to sprout after 7 days, I used the kelp as you suggested. Now I'm just waiting for the spruce, black pines, hemlock and larch to get started, exciting times. My white pine are still stratifying. I might bring a chojubai cutting in as an experiment...

I notice you haven't mentioned using mycorrhizae yet, any reason? Also, how will you prepare the hawthorn seeds?
 
Those Pines are outrageous, super impressive, keep it up. My red pines have started to sprout after 7 days, I used the kelp as you suggested. Now I'm just waiting for the spruce, black pines, hemlock and larch to get started, exciting times. My white pine are still stratifying. I might bring a chojubai cutting in as an experiment...

I notice you haven't mentioned using mycorrhizae yet, any reason? Also, how will you prepare the hawthorn seeds?
I use Mychoriza,because after the starter and root growth phase I discontinue the use of mono ammonium phosphate boost and switch to organic forms of phospherous...that is when mychoriza is needed to break down organic phosherous.Also microbes are beneficial....all once a week.
I boost roots in beginning with mono ammonium phosphate for about three weeks then up nitrogen a tad and switch to organic pure blend pro grow by botanicare/with bunch of suppliments.
If using mineral based phospherous plant roots will reject the myco as a pathogen I believe,but if organic phospherous Is used the roots will form the symbiotic relationship to get phospherous out of soil.

i have hawthorne cuttings on the way not seed
 

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I do add potassium sulphate boost as plants start to mature .In extreme environments with co2 and intense light they greatly benefit from extra potassium.Sulphate forms of everything are always best because they boost suger content and make high brix.
 

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Pine seedlings growing good

Way more than it looks.Probably over 1000 pines in the pots!
I may sacrifice my deciduous experiments for more Pine seedling cuttings.
Keeping the nutrient solution a very low charge.Future cuttings do not like lots of NPK....less than barely adequate is better.Do better when leaves are not using all the photosynthesis energy to assimilate all the Nitrogen.That way all the energy from photosynthesis goes into stored energy and sugars in the leaves and stems and chemical reactions that produce rooting harmones on there own! Right in the leaves that have a downstream effect in the base.
Weekly foliar sprays of Kelp and Fulvic acid are excellent for these as well as drenching too.
Then you take the cutting at the end of your light cycle when leaves are active and pumped from a day of photosynthesis with energy to sustain your cutting till’ roots form.If you wait to take your cutting till’ morning a lot of the energy will go down to the roots overnight and your cutting could take twice as long to root.

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That is a great tip about when in the light cycle to take the cutting.
 
That is a great tip about when in the light cycle to take the cutting.
Makes a huge differance....pines root best when stems turn red at very beggining.......Clonex solution is good with a 1:1 nitrogen to potassium ratio.Desired for motherplant formulas.

if you need a recipe let me know for pre cuttings....I have ppm figured to keep 1:1 ratio so I can add biostimulants also to the clonex
 
indoor Spring.

Hornbeam waking up.Hopefully have everything dialed in to grow these right.
Coreana’s from Brent for cuttings and then the European seedlings I grew.
Seedling look ok,I have dealt with a couple deficiencies and am learning how to deal with them.
 

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@cmeg1 Are use using the Fulvex/Liquid Karma in your watering solution for seeds?
Fulvex is great for seedling at 5 ml per gallon.Karma at 5 ml gal....then can add Clonex a little bit and increase clonex as they get older then switch to a proper base grow at early veg......really should get a tds/ec meter so seedlings is .5EC or below.Early veg satarts at .6ec
Can literally choke seedlings with too much fetilizer.
.5 Ec is of clonex base too...befor you add bio-stimulants.Need the npk and micro or you get deficiencies.
Here is my early veg nutrient per 3litre water.I started with 5 ml clonex,but increased....humic acid also adds trace elements to water....I use RO water,so humic acid is great for putting minerals back into water.Humic and powders just cheaper.....Karma is good though.I think I like humic acid better now....but I always try different stuff.
This is actually 1:1 motherplant formula Im currently using.I have PPM’s balanced with calmag(botanicare) and bio stimulants.Then I can adjust the strength with the balanced Clonex base per stage of seedlings and keep 1:1 ......Still a work in progress.i was informed the high nitrogen of the amino and omina is practically zero available to the plant because its in the molecule? So does not affect my 1:1 ratio....we’ll see if these produce quick rooting cuttings and air-layers.Mothers like a 1:1 nitrogen to potassium ratio.Regular seedlings can be more unbalanced and not so critical lol

Yes can soak seeds in kelp overnight for increased germination rate too
 

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^^^^
That's gonna take a little bit to wrap my little pee brain around!!😂
Let me understand that this is for plants from seed? Not cuttings. Right?
So we have TDC (Total dissolved solids), EC (Electric Conductivity) and PH.
You mention the Clonex base prior to the addition of bio-stimulants, but aren't the Botanicare products (Fulvex and Karma)fertilizers?

I think I may have answered my own question. Correct me if I'm wrong.
You balance the EC of the Clonex base to .5 before you add the bio-stimulants to the solution?

I'm learning!!

Thanks!
 
^^^^
That's gonna take a little bit to wrap my little pee brain around!!😂
Let me understand that this is for plants from seed? Not cuttings. Right?
So we have TDC (Total dissolved solids), EC (Electric Conductivity) and PH.
You mention the Clonex base prior to the addition of bio-stimulants, but aren't the Botanicare products (Fulvex and Karma)fertilizers?

I think I may have answered my own question. Correct me if I'm wrong.
You balance the EC of the Clonex base to .5 before you add the bio-stimulants to the solution?

I'm learning!!

Thanks!
The formula above is for motherplants that produce cuttings.Good to get them ready.
Fulvex and karma are supplements,While karma has npk it is really low,so better to add a base grow first....and yes ec your base grow and calmag first to .5 or less for seedlings then add suppliments....botanicare suppliments do add to the ec slightly so keep that in mind.Seedlings like more water than salts...in fact any plant does.......it is hard to remove excess fetilizer once its too late!
 

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Set up the tent

Wow! I did an all nighter to get the hardest part of this done.I transferred everything and tinkered around for 14 hours.Looks like I just need a humidity control.I leave a vent open on top and heat is not an issue.
When I get the humidity control today,I believe I can plug my co2 controller into the same plug as the in-line fan that the humidity controller uses or something and my co2 controller will not release any co2 for the 2 whole minutes or less it takes for the in-line fan to exhaust enough humidity to get it under control.......We’ll see how long my co2 lasts.I turned it down to 1000 PPM even.The tent is half the size of room so I think it should not be too much extra.My buddy at the hydro shop said leave the vent open on top because most of the co2 sinks down anyway and that is where I keep the detector.
I keep a small fan high,next to the wall in the corner of the room to keep any heat out.I will replace my drywall and insulation in a day or so.No more condensation on windows and the wall is nice and cool!
Will get the bugs worked out in a few days.I may run the duct further out of the room or simple a stand up fan to blow out any slight heat........ the wet wall made me very cautious!
The best tent money can buy...The ggt48 by Gorilla Grow Tent.Very thick and insulated.I lucked out because Amazon listed price wrong and ai got it at HALF PRICE!!! $365 instead of $665;)
 

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neat temperatur/Humidity controler.

this looks to be able to do quite alot. Humidify/dehumidify at same time or temp/humidity at same time ..even refridgeration and heat ata same time.
Im just glad it shows temp digitally and will turn my fan on when too humid for a minute or two.
Arrives tomorrow...seems multiple uses in case I decide to regulate something else
 
buds poppin’ Here and there.

It has been 10 days sinc I chopped Zelkova.I do not know if these are just water sprouts or what....
Also the Chinese Elm looks to be pulling out of the various nutrient dificiancies The had.Trunks are getting bigger now..
Definately notice the slower growth of European hornbeam.
 

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new goodies


Actually had a tax return this year,so got a new humidity controller and a light controller too.

.


 
totally relieved

In another thread I showed how I goofed up letting the walls in my old grow setup take the sometimes over 90F heat from the room being sealed to conserve co2.Well anyway I noticed moisture at the bottom of Sheetrock.Sure enough stuck my hand into insulation and it was soaked on the outside facing wall in my 9x8 growroom.
So got around to tearing out a section today and was relieved to find that there is no wood in the wall anyway to actually get moldy.I thought the worst thinking there was saturated particle board that would eventually mold..............nope,just a piece of drywall,a layer of insulation and then a sealed piece of styrofoam 1/2” thick that looks impenetrable from water by means of a very thin plastic coating or layer.🤪

I removed a piece of the foam and saw siding outside.
If they actually put wood there ,all mobile homes would be full of moisture and mold....actually some science there and the walls breathe very nicely even if there is slight condensation.But,in my growroom a lot of moisture condensated and ran down the styrofoam.
so cool,no wood anyway.I can take my time now and do a panal at a time.
Problem is so SOLVED with the addition of my new grow tent.Totally no heat in the room.
 

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Hercules in-line fan

This 6” centrifugal fan is a beast.I have a temporary humidity controler to activate this fan when humudity is too high.It will completely vent the tent and drop humidity by about 8% in about 30 seconds!
I have an adaptor wire I can plug into power supply of fan with a splitter and then from my co2 controler so it will be bypassed while fan dehumidifies.Works a charm without wasting too much co2.Nice feature of my co2controler.
If I don’t keep a tent roof vent open the fan is actually powerful enough to almost collapse the tent from suction.Plus the open roof vent keeps temps adequate.
Really pleased with this setup.My real controlers arrive in a couple days!!
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Zelkova,Korean Hornbeam.My new humidity controller.

Gave all the Zelkova their 2nd wiring.Some bud better than others.Thats why I like seeds to get diversity.Very good progress for 3 1/2 months from seed....layered and all.Small projects.Quick results.Hopefully a few turn very nice.

Put the Coreana Hornbeam in motherplant light (200-400 par) to let them build energy and not grow too much,so they have better chance of rooting cuttings.I hear they can be difficult,so anything I can do.

Humidity controller is good.I like how it monitors temperature and if I need to add on things in the future like humidifier/dehumidifier/cooling/heat....I have the receptacles and sensors.Seems my inline fan turns on every half hour or so for about 30 seconds to dehumidify when gauge goes over set RH.
I can run an accessory adaptor from my co2 unit to the power outlet of dehumidifying fan into a power splitter and the co2 is bypassed when fan is venting,so save co2.
Also going to add another light Friday.That way can raise lights and have awesome combined overlap.
 

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3 1/2 months from seed, that's some crazy stuff. Wow.
 
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