gfreak
Mame
Gotcha, thanks again for all the advice y'all!
First you need to consider the soil it is in . I’m unsure what is used there for nursery soil . If that is what it’s still in . My first concern is are you sure your getting wet . A lot of nursery soil is peat moss based . These soils can be difficult to wet . Once dry . The top gets wet and water runs thru the pot without soaking the soil .recommend setting the pot in a container of water . And allowing it to absorb all it wants . To wet it thoroughly. Up to the soil level for 30 minutes or longer with water up to the bottom 1/3 Use a clean stick of wood ( chop stick popsicle stick or meat skewer) inserted deep into pot to check soil moisture leave the stick in the pot . Water when it no longer is wet when removed . This is a great learning tool each tree is different . They need to dry out but bone dry is to dry . Options are water when needed ir move to a less intense sun location . I assume full sun there is intense . I’m not the person to speak to that . But micro climates can be made . It’s easier to shade out the sun then get more that’s not avail .irrigation systems are avail including simple gravity drip . Do not leave the pot soaking in a tray of water . You will promote root rot . Do not allow it to continue to dry out completely you will kill itQuick follow up question. On the thuja, it seems like it dries out SUPER fast, Like i'll water it fairly heavily in the morning (9am or so) and by the time i get back from work (630 or so)the soil is bone dry unless it's been raining out.
Should i be worried that i need to water it more often? Does this just mean the roots are too overgrown in the pot?
Very smart bonsai masters have said watering is the single toughest thing to learnFirst you need to consider the soil it is in . I’m unsure what is used there for nursery soil . If that is what it’s still in . My first concern is are you sure your getting wet . A lot of nursery soil is peat moss based . These soils can be difficult to wet . Once dry . The top gets wet and water runs thru the pot without soaking the soil .recommend setting the pot in a container of water . And allowing it to absorb all it wants . To wet it thoroughly. Up to the soil level for 30 minutes or longer with water up to the bottom 1/3 Use a clean stick of wood ( chop stick popsicle stick or meat skewer) inserted deep into pot to check soil moisture leave the stick in the pot . Water when it no longer is wet when removed . This is a great learning tool each tree is different . They need to dry out but bone dry is to dry . Options are water when needed ir move to a less intense sun location . I assume full sun there is intense . I’m not the person to speak to that . But micro climates can be made . It’s easier to shade out the sun then get more that’s not avail .irrigation systems are avail including simple gravity drip . Do not leave the pot soaking in a tray of water . You will promote root rot . Do not allow it to continue to dry out completely you will kill it
Thank you!! That makes sense, the boxwoods I got are in the same spot and the soil/watering on those is what I was expecting. So the thuja might just be running straight through, didn't even think of that.First you need to consider the soil it is in . I’m unsure what is used there for nursery soil . If that is what it’s still in . My first concern is are you sure your getting wet . A lot of nursery soil is peat moss based . These soils can be difficult to wet . Once dry . The top gets wet and water runs thru the pot without soaking the soil .recommend setting the pot in a container of water . And allowing it to absorb all it wants . To wet it thoroughly. Up to the soil level for 30 minutes or longer with water up to the bottom 1/3 Use a clean stick of wood ( chop stick popsicle stick or meat skewer) inserted deep into pot to check soil moisture leave the stick in the pot . Water when it no longer is wet when removed . This is a great learning tool each tree is different . They need to dry out but bone dry is to dry . Options are water when needed ir move to a less intense sun location . I assume full sun there is intense . I’m not the person to speak to that . But micro climates can be made . It’s easier to shade out the sun then get more that’s not avail .irrigation systems are avail including simple gravity drip . Do not leave the pot soaking in a tray of water . You will promote root rot . Do not allow it to continue to dry out completely you will kill it
Normally photography is allowed . At most exhibits .I would love to see the tree . Always interested in any native tree . As I stated earlier in this thread . There are notable thuja bonsai . Most are wild collected trees . From harsh north east environment.s there wood is light and very rot resistant . The winterThere is a beautiful example of Thuja Occidentalis at the Como Park Bonsai Exhibit in Saint Paul Minnesota! About 6' tall and 4' wide. I could post yhe pic, but I think I'd have to ask permission...
Fair enough! I didn't mean to insinuate he was mistaken.I’m not convinced it’s a thuja . I don’t take rockm s statement lightly . But it don’t matter . Answer to the watering is yes . A soak might be a good idea say once a week to be sure or if ever you think it’s to dry . Thuja is a water living tree Don’t be scared to wet the foliage when you water . The sun anoint seems fine . Will take sun as long as it has water . But Texas has to be the limit of its heat tolerance so shade for some of the day sounds good . Ambient moisture can help like I said micro climates can help . On a balcony helps standing water in pots around the tree evaporating and or a large tray with gravel under the pot can help just allow the watering water to fill it . Thuja thrives in high humidity
All good I live in small town Canada hard to get worse internet or cell coverage I find pics often fail to load . . Bottom left corner of page there is. Attach file option if that’s the concern should load pic from thereThis is totally embarrassing! I can't figure out how to add the pic! I thought by changing to pdf it would work. It's too big?
Will definitely look him up! Did google the book and like you said, copies are a little out of my price range haha.Try Looking up Nick Lenz and the thread here in the pic above . Nick passed away this summer looks like the tree reference to in this thread was his . Nick was a American bonsai enthusiast . That loved native northeast trees . His taste and style was a bit to eccentric for some . But his talent is undisputed. The last pic is arguable his most famous . Thuja . His book Bonsai from the wild . Is out of print and highly prized by some of us in the northeast . ( my copy was stolen )perhaps if enough of us complain and stamp are feet we can get Wayne at stone lantern to reprint it .
That sure looks like the Lenz tree . Especially if you look at the deadwood branch on the right about 1/2 way up . Age of a bonsai . Is somewhat controversial . First is accuracy . A lot of exaggeration is often applied . You can get a idea of a Yamadori counting rings of a main root then compare the size . To the trunk this is a estimation of age at collecting time . Some only consider the age it is actually in a bonsai pot .This is quoted to be over 450 tears old and trained from a 12' yamadori to whay is now 6'