About to remove ~1/3-->1/2 of a bougie's canopy, how much (if any) root-pruning would be optimal here? Thanks!

SU2

Omono
Messages
1,322
Reaction score
379
Location
FL (Tampa area / Gulf-Coast)
USDA Zone
9b
As title says, I'm unsure how much roots I should trim today after doing my first styling to a large piece of bougie stock (it's grown-out a dense canopy & root-mat and is very vigorous, it can "take" twice as aggressive an approach as I'm doing today I am sure!)

I've seen recommendations for all levels of root-pruning in relation to crown-reductions....If I don't cut the roots at all, I'd have all that root-power to grow new shoots from right? Or the roots would lack sufficient starches to stay alive, die-back, and set me up for a root-rot situation! Am thinking to, at minimum, un-tie it from its container and remove any especially long or thick roots and probably do a 5-10% reduction just to encourage ramification down there, though this is more of a hunch than a tested-method (my "tests" show that bougies are invincible lol)

Thanks for any advice on this, if you've got any experience w/ roughly-similar (canopy+root reductions simultaneously) experiences w/ bougies I'd love to hear your thoughts even if you're just speculating!! I really like the idea of the strong root-mass fueling the re-growth but just can't imagine that such a disparity between a dramatically reduced canopy and a full-sized root-ball would be desirable!



[FWIW, for context, this is for my "cerberus bougie", a 3-limbed collection/"cutting" that's just a monster that there's no "good" answer on how to style it, will be interesting to see how good/terrible this comes out after the tools are turned off :p ]

20180709_124242.jpg
 

SU2

Omono
Messages
1,322
Reaction score
379
Location
FL (Tampa area / Gulf-Coast)
USDA Zone
9b
FWIW, my carving was exclusively on the large-limb of this specimen, although so far as pruning&defoliating I heavily defoliated the branches that came from the carved limb (to reduce transpiration- I reallly cut deep into that limb and exposed a lot of heartwood- am still unsure if burnishing w/ propane immediately after was smart, despite having seen it in youtubes!), and on the other two limbs that did not get any carving I hard-pruned all the shoots back to several nodes because I figured that would help "insure" energy being directed to the cut-limb as the entire thing was incredibly vigorous (that pic in post#1 is like 4mo old) and I was afraid that, if I'd hurt the heartwood too-much, it could just redirect energies to the 2 un-touched limbs and ignore the carved one....have only killed one bougie branch by carving too-deeply into the heartwood before but reallly didn't want to risk this being my 2nd one so I'm "baby-ing" the limb by killing the vigor of the opposing limbs as well as having the carved-limb wrapped in plastic sheeting & its shoots' bottom ~75% defoliated to reduce transpiration, it was such a strong specimen I expect those moves were overkill but wanted to be safe (and the hard-pruned limbs on the other branches weren't thick-enough but w/ how fast bougies grow it's really no big set-back, am happy to lose a couple months on those limbs to ensure the carved one's survival!)

Re design, it's probably too-late to really go this route but now that I've begun carving the idea I had in-mind I realized I hadn't considered simply 'abandoning' a limb to turn it into a large deadwood feature!! With 3 limbs that are in no recognizable "style" whatsoever I'm basically forced to go "Fairy Tale Style" (a la Pall & Sandev) so most-anything is on the table if I think it'll look good, cannot help but think I should've left the large limb *intact* and developed that, while skinning the middle branch to set it up to dry & become a deadwood feature!! I know deadwood on deciduous is "against the rules" (best way I can think to phrase it) but, in the context of specimen like this, I just don't see good paths that involve no deadwood so if it's a part of the composition I may as well do it right!

Am past the halfway point in finishing my first styling of this tree - my first "real" styling of this sort on any large materials actually- will be interesting to see if I can make this guy work!!!
 

choppychoppy

Chumono
Messages
720
Reaction score
1,307
Location
N. Florida
cannot help but think I should've left the large limb *intact* and developed that, while skinning the middle branch to set it up to dry & become a deadwood feature!! I know deadwood on deciduous is "against the rules" (best way I can think to phrase it) but, in the context of specimen like this, I just don't see good paths that involve no deadwood so if it's a part of the composition I may as well do it right!


There is no 'right' way to try to add conifer style jin and shari to a tropical tree. Tropical trees do not involve deadwood in most cases instead utilizing uro and hollowing. Deadwood ROTS on tropical trees in nature and in a Bonsai pot. And no matter what you do to treat a vine with wood hardners etc. the wood will still rot in Florida. You like to reference Graham potter and his carving work but that is being done on actual hardwood trees that would slowly rot naturally not tropicals. In order for these things you've collected to have a chance at looking decent you need to imagine them with no 'dead' sections and work towards those designs. Sometimes you have to take a couple years and regrow some structure before you have enough to work with after collection. This is something you are missing big time - the ability to collect and leave be for a time to get the tree ready for work.
 

SU2

Omono
Messages
1,322
Reaction score
379
Location
FL (Tampa area / Gulf-Coast)
USDA Zone
9b
There is no 'right' way to try to add conifer style jin and shari to a tropical tree. Tropical trees do not involve deadwood in most cases instead utilizing uro and hollowing. Deadwood ROTS on tropical trees in nature and in a Bonsai pot. And no matter what you do to treat a vine with wood hardners etc. the wood will still rot in Florida. You like to reference Graham potter and his carving work but that is being done on actual hardwood trees that would slowly rot naturally not tropicals. In order for these things you've collected to have a chance at looking decent you need to imagine them with no 'dead' sections and work towards those designs. Sometimes you have to take a couple years and regrow some structure before you have enough to work with after collection. This is something you are missing big time - the ability to collect and leave be for a time to get the tree ready for work.

I was referencing G.Potter in terms of *carving-style* and technique, I'd never used grinders before bonsai and I'm able to learn a lot from his technique. I'm well aware that bougies (and tropicals in general it seems, though most of my collection is bougies) don't have long-lasting deadwood. I'm also well-aware that there are people who see things as "right" in bonsai, and I know you are certainly one of them. I feel like you already know that I simply disagree with your aesthetic preferences but this post reads like you don't so want to be clear.

Yes, I'm fully aware that deadwood on bougies requires special care above&beyond regular deadwood, but that certainly isn't something that's stopped people like Adam Lavigne or Erik Wigert from creating beautiful bougainvilleas that have deadwood features. I get that it's "not traditional", I know that and frankly just don't really care about "traditional" I care about making a particular piece of stock as great as it can be. That is my primary concern, not whether it's "the 'right' way" according to tradition or rules.

How do you feel about ume bonsai, stuff like this:

aume6.jpg

Do Umes of this sort drive you nuts? Maybe they're OK because this particular species is "accepted" to be grown this way? Despite your attempts to downplay bougainvilleas as "vines", they can be trained in almost any way, and frankly I love the types of Umes that I just posted, and I cannot fathom a reason why me trying to make similar specimen w/ my local species (bougainvilleas) is so bothersome to some people, I mean in the end this is about *art* and aesthetics and I'm not intending to "try to win a contest" I am trying to grow my trees in the way that I expect will make them most-desirable to me when they're done.

I get that you want to be 'traditional', and I've got some trees I'm growing in very traditional styles, however I actually prefer "funky" trees and if it's "breaking a rule" that bougies shouldn't have deadwood, yet it's fine on Umes, I can't see any reason I should care unless I were planning to compete and I'm not!

And FWIW, in my other thread where you and M.Frary wanted push the "SU2 doesn't listen" line, if you want to look-back at the thread there were two points of contention and both were addressed, the "didn't listen" is completely the opposite of what happened, I literally linked the thread where I'd asked for advice on doing just what I did, I linked pics of zack's 1st-year trees and tagged him to get his OK, it just blows my mind you can read that and accuse me of "not listening". I don't know if it's meant to be a generic jab or if you actually believe it, but if the latter I just don't see what reason *anyone* would spend asking & researching things if they were indifferent to the answers they found....the insulting implication that I'd ask Q's, just in hopes that someone would agree with my preconceived notions, and that I'd ignore any replies that weren't what I wanted to hear, is just such a silly assertion on its face that I'd find it worthless to address except for the fact that I'm getting it too-much from a trio of users who always seem to find and sign-on anytime one says it, in my BC thread m.frary was there to 'like' your post before he replied and then, after I made-clear how I DID follow instruction as it was given, he then quoted you to make the vague assertion about "beginners" (clearly implying *me*) RockM used to do it alongside m.frary though he seems to have realized I'm not some person who spends all this time posting for no practical reason and that any seeming discrepencies are in no way the result of me trying to operate thinking my judgment supercedes professionals, to accuse me of otherwise is just nonsense and insulting.

Bottom line is I removed those BC branches *after* serious thought, after asking on reddit and here, and then proceeding based precisely on this. So much is already made-clear in that thread (though that was after you'd posted, but not before m.frary got in to quote & further imply I was just not listening) It sucks because I have literally zero ill-will towards a single person on any bonsai-board and I just can't convince myself you truly believe what you say about me not listening but anything besides that would mean you're doing it to try and insult me....I hope you can realize I am legitimately asking Q's in the expectation of learning from & implementing what I'm able to glean from replies and these accusations can stop because they're frustrating and just entirely off-base :/

Sorry for length but it's just really bothersome being accused of something so far from the truth and I feel I've unfairly become a "poster boy" in your and a couple others' eyes despite threads like the current BC one where I literally linked the things that proved I'd asked before doing and DID go on advice, yet still get accused of 'not listening'.. Am not planning on stopping bonsai or posting here so really would like this to be resolved but don't know what else I can do if this appeal, and my *proving* I was going on-advice in the BC thread, are insufficient to convince you otherwise :/
 
Last edited:

Lorax7

Omono
Messages
1,441
Reaction score
2,144
Location
Michigan
USDA Zone
6a
There is no 'right' way to try to add conifer style jin and shari to a tropical tree. Tropical trees do not involve deadwood in most cases instead utilizing uro and hollowing. Deadwood ROTS on tropical trees in nature and in a Bonsai pot. And no matter what you do to treat a vine with wood hardners etc. the wood will still rot in Florida. You like to reference Graham potter and his carving work but that is being done on actual hardwood trees that would slowly rot naturally not tropicals. In order for these things you've collected to have a chance at looking decent you need to imagine them with no 'dead' sections and work towards those designs. Sometimes you have to take a couple years and regrow some structure before you have enough to work with after collection. This is something you are missing big time - the ability to collect and leave be for a time to get the tree ready for work.
Deadwood rots on all trees, tropical, deciduous, and conifer alike. So what?

All jin, shari, uro, and the whole tree in general are temporary. They live for a time and then die. Every bonsai is in flux always. The visions we create with our pruning and wire and carving exist for a limited time and then change. I fail to see anything wrong with choosing to create a deadwood feature, knowing full well that it will exist (and potentially look great if done well) for a moment in time (certainly, long enough to exhibit the tree, if desired) and then be gone. If you think trees in a natural setting (even tropicals) don’t have deadwood features, I challenge you to get out of the house and travel more.
 

grouper52

Masterpiece
Messages
2,377
Reaction score
3,719
Location
Port Orchard, WA
USDA Zone
8
Deadwood rots on all trees, tropical, deciduous, and conifer alike. So what?

All jin, shari, uro, and the whole tree in general are temporary. They live for a time and then die. Every bonsai is in flux always. The visions we create with our pruning and wire and carving exist for a limited time and then change. I fail to see anything wrong with choosing to create a deadwood feature, knowing full well that it will exist (and potentially look great if done well) for a moment in time (certainly, long enough to exhibit the tree, if desired) and then be gone. If you think trees in a natural setting (even tropicals) don’t have deadwood features, I challenge you to get out of the house and travel more.

A schizophrenic under my care in a state hospital long ago came out of the blue with this statement: "The hands of my watch are the trees of time." It has always stuck with me. Yes, everything passes: enjoy the moment, especially in bonsai. And make your trees to please yourself, not to please or impress others necessarily.
 

grouper52

Masterpiece
Messages
2,377
Reaction score
3,719
Location
Port Orchard, WA
USDA Zone
8
As title says, I'm unsure how much roots I should trim today after doing my first styling to a large piece of bougie stock (it's grown-out a dense canopy & root-mat and is very vigorous, it can "take" twice as aggressive an approach as I'm doing today I am sure!)

I've seen recommendations for all levels of root-pruning in relation to crown-reductions....If I don't cut the roots at all, I'd have all that root-power to grow new shoots from right? Or the roots would lack sufficient starches to stay alive, die-back, and set me up for a root-rot situation! Am thinking to, at minimum, un-tie it from its container and remove any especially long or thick roots and probably do a 5-10% reduction just to encourage ramification down there, though this is more of a hunch than a tested-method (my "tests" show that bougies are invincible lol)

Thanks for any advice on this, if you've got any experience w/ roughly-similar (canopy+root reductions simultaneously) experiences w/ bougies I'd love to hear your thoughts even if you're just speculating!! I really like the idea of the strong root-mass fueling the re-growth but just can't imagine that such a disparity between a dramatically reduced canopy and a full-sized root-ball would be desirable!



[FWIW, for context, this is for my "cerberus bougie", a 3-limbed collection/"cutting" that's just a monster that there's no "good" answer on how to style it, will be interesting to see how good/terrible this comes out after the tools are turned off :p ]

View attachment 206247

FWIW, in your climate - which is probably close to my current one in the Philippines - I consider bougies to be basically indestructible. I don't think you can do anything short of setting off an atomic bomb to really set them back. So I wonder if, perhaps, sweating the minutia of proportional root pruning on your tree is just a lot of needless worrying. If some day the growth seems to slow significantly, or if there is some sort of an itch to do so for either some rational or irrational reason at some point, just do a re-pot and trim the roots at that time. I don't know if bougies do this, but some plants do seem to go from a vegetative phase of growth to a reproductive one when resources - or their ability to take resources in - start to fade, and this phase primarily features the production of flowers and seeds over leafy growth as the plant's way of sending off offspring to "find greener pastures".
 
Top Bottom