XecutivE
Seedling
Hi, I'm from the UK and very interested in getting a deshojo maple for my garden. I want a tree to grow in the garden so that i can take cuttings from it in the future. I wonder if you could advice the best place to get one from.
Acer palmatm deshojo (from cutting)
- Thread starter clem
- Start date
Deep Sea Diver
Masterpiece
Greetings and welcome aboard!
Just an etiquette hint, we know you are new... but you are inadvertently sidelining the OP’s thread.
That’s ok if it relates to the project, not as good if you are going off to a sidetrack. In addition folks selecting a thread are usually interested in the techniques shown in the project or desire to help move it along. So the audience is limited.
A really good way to get help of the sort you are wanting is to start a new thread with a Title indicating what you desire and where succinctly. “Looking for UK sources of Deshojo Maples.“. Don’t be shy, we all were new once!
To help you even further for this quest and in the future, double click your icon and enter your approximate location. Then folks in your local area might speak up and give you information. Who knows, you might make a life long friend!
I actually make cuttings of this maple myself, regretfully I’m 3/4ths the other side of the world from you!
cheers and good luck!
DSD sends
Just an etiquette hint, we know you are new... but you are inadvertently sidelining the OP’s thread.
That’s ok if it relates to the project, not as good if you are going off to a sidetrack. In addition folks selecting a thread are usually interested in the techniques shown in the project or desire to help move it along. So the audience is limited.
A really good way to get help of the sort you are wanting is to start a new thread with a Title indicating what you desire and where succinctly. “Looking for UK sources of Deshojo Maples.“. Don’t be shy, we all were new once!
To help you even further for this quest and in the future, double click your icon and enter your approximate location. Then folks in your local area might speak up and give you information. Who knows, you might make a life long friend!
I actually make cuttings of this maple myself, regretfully I’m 3/4ths the other side of the world from you!
cheers and good luck!
DSD sends
james
Shohin
You have done some nice work with several maples, as you have shown in other threads. Thank you, very inspirational. I enjoying seeing you develop these maples.
I like where this tree is headed. Based on the second to last image from your 3/11 post, (tree in silhouette) against the greenhouse, I see a central leader, and two large branches, the lowest arising from the left, second arising from the right. From the soil line, to the central leader, you have developed nice turns and taper in the trunk. Would you consider using the first smaller branch headed to the left as your new leader? In your 12/23 post, you suggested taking off this leader in the future. If you wish to continue building trunk girth, you could keep on the largest lower branch?
I like where this tree is headed. Based on the second to last image from your 3/11 post, (tree in silhouette) against the greenhouse, I see a central leader, and two large branches, the lowest arising from the left, second arising from the right. From the soil line, to the central leader, you have developed nice turns and taper in the trunk. Would you consider using the first smaller branch headed to the left as your new leader? In your 12/23 post, you suggested taking off this leader in the future. If you wish to continue building trunk girth, you could keep on the largest lower branch?
clem
Chumono
hello, thx for your reflection on my maple.
you suggest to keep the 1rst left branch as a sacrifice branch ?
james
Shohin
Here is quick sketch of what I was trying to describe earlier.
I don’t know how to directly mark up photo, with colored lines, etc. So please forgive the crude drawing.
This is a possible direction to produce a classic, tapered trunk, single leader with nice curves. I recognize this differs from another one of your recent maples which has what I may call an “oak style”, meandering trunk and branches, less emphasis on single leader and taper.
So as the drawing suggests, taking off the central leader above the small left branch, and the right main branch. I am concerned if the right branch is left on, you may get reverse taper in mid trunk, very difficult to fix. You can leave on left branch, which will fatten up base. So the trunk is almost finished, leaving you with a nice medium sized tree. Last step, graft on and start building smaller branches on the outsides of your curves.
I don’t know how to directly mark up photo, with colored lines, etc. So please forgive the crude drawing.
This is a possible direction to produce a classic, tapered trunk, single leader with nice curves. I recognize this differs from another one of your recent maples which has what I may call an “oak style”, meandering trunk and branches, less emphasis on single leader and taper.
So as the drawing suggests, taking off the central leader above the small left branch, and the right main branch. I am concerned if the right branch is left on, you may get reverse taper in mid trunk, very difficult to fix. You can leave on left branch, which will fatten up base. So the trunk is almost finished, leaving you with a nice medium sized tree. Last step, graft on and start building smaller branches on the outsides of your curves.
james
Shohin
A couple steps along. Chop central leader and right branch. Let left branch run to thicken base. Develop leader from small left branch, generally move to left, add a couple of wiggles (you are good at that!). In a couple of years chop left bottom branch. Somewhere along the way, add some grafts for thinner branches. This gives you a tapered central leader tree, gentle small branches which complement the trunk, much like the classic Japanese styled maples. If you want to propagate this species, instead of chopping, you could airlayer the big branches, and start more trees. The large branch on right has some nice turns, which could make a nice base for a new tree.
clem
Chumono
thank you for the time you took to perform those nice drawings !
I plan to make a tree far bigger and larger than the actual tree (i prefer trees between 50 and 70cm) so i will let sacrifice branches grow. I will maybe follow your advise and let the 1rst left branch as a sacrifice branche, if the scar on its shoulder evolve correctly : now the scar is very big and make a swelling ..
Concerning the trunk line i have the same project as you, but i plan to keep a new leader on the right (just my feeling/personnal taste )
->
I plan to make a tree far bigger and larger than the actual tree (i prefer trees between 50 and 70cm) so i will let sacrifice branches grow. I will maybe follow your advise and let the 1rst left branch as a sacrifice branche, if the scar on its shoulder evolve correctly : now the scar is very big and make a swelling ..
Concerning the trunk line i have the same project as you, but i plan to keep a new leader on the right (just my feeling/personnal taste )
->
james
Shohin
There’s many ways to develop this tree, it has great bones. With your preference of a larger tree, your plan looks great. Keep us posted.
I noticed a wire ring around the chop point, when you first chopped the trunk. Was this simply a marker or did it serve some other purpose?
If I had my conspiracy hat on, I might guess that a tourniquet is known to help reduce dieback in a maple by harshly reducing the vascular transit...
clem
Chumono
yes i made a tourniquet and add some sphagnum moss on the cut to try to limit the little sapp bleeding (10 October 2018) but i'm not sure at all it is usefull to put a tourniquet (the spganum moss seem to be more usefull) ->
A few months later, a little dieback of 5mm height appeared (photo of March 2019) ->
I know you know it but i want to add that when you cut just above a bud or a branch with buds (that attacts sapp) you have less risk of sapp withdraw (dieback) than when you cut and have no buds near the cut (as shown on this example).
Sorry for my poor English ^^
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Ive not heard of putting sphagnum moss on the top of the wound...
I think all of these techniques are perhaps half for the tree, half to make us feel better about it but Im all down for avoiding unnecessary risk.
Yes, with a Maple, dieback is always a problem but i would think, no matter what you do, it was going to die back to those 2 buds/node ring, anyway. So, no big deal either way.
Perhaps if the tree is not strong enough, the dieback could affect the 2 viable buds and kill them, killing the tree. Perhaps.
I have put my cheap mallsai Deshojo in the ground now, on a tile. Piled on fert. I hope in a few years, mine has the same positive transformation that yours did. Or better
clem
Chumono
Here are some news. The 2 thread grafts seem to have fused with the trunk ->
A scar almost closed ->
A scar almost closed ->
leatherback
The Treedeemer
You are getting such goor growth on your acers!
Bonsai Nut
Nuttier than your average Nut
Looking good!
So much better with only one leader for growth. The other branches were too thick for your design.
So much better with only one leader for growth. The other branches were too thick for your design.
clem
Chumono
I have also a deshojo cutting living outside of the greenhouse and it doesn't grow at all (which means that the greenhouse (warmer zone + no wind) is the key point to have a good growth in my place ->
clem
Chumono
I did a mistake at the beginning with this tree. i thought i could keep a leader (with growth ++) and a lateral branch (kept small by pinching) at the same level but the problem is that they both (crown + lateral branch) grew far too much and a swelling appeared.
If i could to do it again, i would cut here directly (red line) in order to let one leader and avoid a reverse tapper ->
clem
Chumono
hello, some news of this tree.
I repotted it this spring ->
The rootball and nebari on both faces ->
The tree fixed in the woodbox ->
Here is the tree now : i decided to cut the trunk and make the new trunk line with a small shoot (better line IMO and better tapper) ->
here is a virtual of the trunk line without the stub and sacrifice branches ->
Maybe a tree like that in the future ->
I repotted it this spring ->
The rootball and nebari on both faces ->
The tree fixed in the woodbox ->
Here is the tree now : i decided to cut the trunk and make the new trunk line with a small shoot (better line IMO and better tapper) ->
here is a virtual of the trunk line without the stub and sacrifice branches ->
Maybe a tree like that in the future ->
clem
Chumono
Some news...
The tree at the middle of June after cutting the sacrifice branches ->
The tree at the end of August ->
The scars after 2 months and a half of growth ->
If a scar bump remains after healing, i could cut here with concave pliers ->
My goal is to get a good tapper and trunk line even if it means having big scars
The tree at the middle of June after cutting the sacrifice branches ->
The tree at the end of August ->
The scars after 2 months and a half of growth ->
If a scar bump remains after healing, i could cut here with concave pliers ->
My goal is to get a good tapper and trunk line even if it means having big scars
giventofly
Mame
Love the documentation.
If i understood correctly you did the grafts just to thicken the trunk ? Why not let just the top grow?
If i understood correctly you did the grafts just to thicken the trunk ? Why not let just the top grow?
clem
Chumono
yes the grafts were done to increase the tapper and to discover the "thread grafting" technique which is very easy to do.
If you let the top grow, the trunk will thicken every where but the tapper will not improve.
If you let the top grow, the trunk will thicken every where but the tapper will not improve.
