Advice needed on layering

[small trees]

Here are some pictures of a Red Maple that I am working on more for practice than anything. Most people don't use them for bonsai, but it's abundant and I can always learn from it, so I'm working on it. First, the pictures.


Here is a picture of the height of the tree as it stands now. It's about 21 inches tall but that will be changed later.

Here is the trunk diameter above the flare. It's about 2 1/4".

Here is the lowest bud that I could find on the tree. You can't really see it in this picture, but it is abut 5 1/2" above soil.

Here is the next highest bud, about 10" above soil.

Finally, here is a shot from the 10" bud to the top. about 13 1/2".

Now, my question. According to the 6:1 height:width ratio, this tree should be around 14" when finished. The nebari leave a lot to be desired, so I was thinking of ground layering it. Since there is a trunk flare and then almost no taper, I was thinking a tourniquet might be the way to go. Do you agree? How far up do you think I should ground layer it, and when should I do this?

Thanks for reading!

 

[Smoke]

Any layer is a spring project...not an Oct project.

Ground layer is probably not very good on this candidate since there is not much up top worthy of putting a new base on.

If you wish to layer it, I would concentrate on taking out the part with the best chance of making a good shohin sized tree. Maybe a couple inches below where the branches all come out.

 

[Poink88]

I'd probably air layer it where Smoke said then after separation, chop the bottom part around 6" above current top of soil then build from there.

 

[small trees]

Any layer is a spring project...not an Oct project.

Ground layer is probably not very good on this candidate since there is not much up top worthy of putting a new base on.

If you wish to layer it, I would concentrate on taking out the part with the best chance of making a good shohin sized tree. Maybe a couple inches below where the branches all come out.

How do you suggest I work on the taper? Another chop and a new leader?

I'd probably air layer it where Smoke said then after separation, chop the bottom part around 6" above current top of soil then build from there.

That's a good idea. See, this is why I come to you guys with questions!

 

[Sekibonsai]

Acer Rubrum is terrible about healing over so your image might include a hollow/split trunk or some other "deadwood" type feature to camoflauge the scar.

 

[small trees]

Acer Rubrum is terrible about healing over so your image might include a hollow/split trunk or some other "deadwood" type feature to camoflauge the scar.

I figured, the bark on these trees seems tender.