Azalea Repair - What are the odds of healing

[Glaucus]

It really grew a lot those two years in the ground. And that one side came completely back to live despite the scar. It looked pretty stressed out in that first picture posted in 2020.
Nice job on this one.
It almost looks like it could be a R.kaempferi selection.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Thanks Folks!

It seems @Glaucus really narrowed this ID down! Certainly doesn’t seem to be one of the usual suspects, Satsuki, Kurume, etc

Here’s two closer photos of the flowers on the azalea in the backyard

….

R.k.. from Wikipedia…. Next to R. k… from Ushiku Forest Park, Japan

….

Leaf pattern from the backyard azalea….. Next to leaves from R. k… at Ushiku Forest Park, Japan. Notice a similar palmate leaf pattern from the Wikipedia image above to these, yet the leaves are a bit more slender…

….

So an R.kaempferi cultivar seems to narrow down the ID for this guy. Well done!

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

After bulking out more, getting this formerly wounded warriors, it’s finally time to set up some structure. I would never cut this much back if the tree wasn't healthy and robust.



On the shady benches area for two weeks. If it responds, edge it in to more sun over a week.

In a day the larger cuts will get putty on them. Works well for me with all azaleas

After this It’s gonna be all about prune, seal and wait. Then adjust mainly but clip and grow.

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

One Month later…

The procedure above was not something to be taken lightly, at least by me, even though the azalea was showing all signs of being healthy and robust. Research of azalea experts and my earlier tests this spring had revealed all species/cultivars do not react the same to cutbacks.

Some, cultivars given a hard cutback will just not push new buds. Some respond weakly, others will push multiple buds on bare wood, like Kogane Nishiki. (More on this in another thread.)

So normally a whole-scale cut back of would a bit of a gamble, but in this case, the timing was right. Also, knowing how resilient this species/cultivar this was more of a calculated effort to see how this species/cultivar would react to a pretty hard cut back.

In this case this azalea proved once again to be extremely resilient, pushing buds pretty much at every cut site and also, in many places back on bare wood.


At this point a mass of back buds are beginning to accumulate. In about two weeks given good luck the tree will have leaves showing all over.


Close up of a couple pruning sites



Cheers
DSD sends

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Slowly filling out. Hopefully will harden off by end of month. If not, it will go into a greenhouse early to help push more foliar mass.

Likely no blooms next year. Maybe some cut backs in mid spring.


cheers
DSD sends

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Tree looked like a goner most of the winter. Turned out it was merely conserving energy for a big spring push. Even backbudding a little on the trunk. Multiple cut backs will tails no flowers this year.

Basic structure is in place finally.

Plan. Keep healthy. A bit of wire and Clip and grow from here on out



Cheers
DSD sends

 

[River's Edge]

Have you considered epoxy filler for the carved area to promote faster healing and more aesthetic outcome? Something along the lines of fixit stick by Oatey. Two part epoxy to create the desired shape and smooth surface for the callus to form over. Just wondering!

 

[Mats Hagström]

What do you predict will happen to this azalea?

Here’s its story:

Years ago my Father in law accidentally sat on this azalea bonsai, breaking off a branch. The result was a hollow area left on the trunk (see bad photo of hollow) which he painted with wound sealant. Years later (two and a half years ago) it was bequeathed to me with a number of other bonsai.

I was down with a severe injury until this spring, so about all I could do was water, fertilize, lightly trim and turn. This year, all healed up, I’ve been going through each tree one by one.

The first job was to get this particular tree healthy as the Feb repot showed little roots and possible root rot to boot. Now, I think this is well under control and I took a look at the hollow area. Lots of rot in the trunk.

Out came the fine chisels and I gouged and scraped until I got as much rot out as possible.

Next next step, I’m sure is a bit controversial, was to assure that the rot was totally gone.

Having asthma issues I left the lime sulfur on the shelf and instead used a micro torch to burn off the affected area.... sadly zinging a few leaves in the process. My bad!

Afterwards I scraped off the entire wound to good wood.

Finally I applied cut paste inside the wound.

So, besides being turned in to the American Association of Bonsai Enthusiasts against Azalea Torture, what would you all predict will happen to the tree overall and the wound specifically?

Cheers!
DSD sends
View attachment 305666View attachment 305670View attachment 305672

I also burnt the deadwood on a tree with a torch this year.

It was a Coastal redwood tree that have been shopped.

I was thinking about carving the deadwood and looked up what damaged redwood trees look like in nature, and found that when redwood trees have massive defects, it’s almost always from fire paired.

I took a spray bottle and sprayed water on the surrounding tissue, protected the foliage and slowly burnt. The wood, followed by spraying it with water to cool it off then scraping it with a wire brush.

I continue doing this over and over until enough. Wood was gone that I had something close to desire defect.

I still have a little bit to go, but just wanna make sure the treat is good and healthy before I go further.

Here are some pictures

The last picture is a full-size coastal redwood with significant fire damage that I used as my inspiration.

I’m not sure I want to create a hollow in my tree, but if I keep burning, then that’s eventually where is going to turn out.

I have no intention of the tree healing over the injured section. I don’t think redwoods will do that.

When deciding to try to heal a wood scar I think it’s best to start by understanding the physiology of the tree were working with.

Some trees will heal just about any size scar.

My Parrotia persica will heal any size chop I make. It is a zealous grower of scar tissue. my birch trees, and the other hand will not heal over even small branch cuts.

Mats

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Have you considered epoxy filler for the carved area to promote faster healing and more aesthetic outcome? Something along the lines of fixit stick by Oatey. Two part epoxy to create the desired shape and smooth surface for the callus to form over. Just wondering!

Ouch Frank.

Too ignorant to know at the time… If one could only look back in the past the tree certainly would have had epoxy in the rotted area.

May still need to. One of these days after an upcoming trip may have time to look and see how the wound is healing.

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Mats

Great information. Have you tried it on an azalea cultivar yet?

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[River's Edge]

Ouch Frank.

Too ignorant to know at the time… If one could only look back in the past the tree certainly would have had epoxy in the rotted area.

May still need to. One of these days after an upcoming trip may have time to look and see how the wound is healing.

Cheers
DSD sends

No " Ouchies" intended. I often wait until the callus is showing a strong response before considering the epoxy for a particular tree or species. I have expanded my use of this technique to conifers with successful outcomes. The first time I tried it on a conifer was a Mountain Hemlock. I only tired it because I was dissatisfied with the aesthetics after I first attempt to correct an area of inverse taper. I think I reworked that area four or five times over a decade before I got it right! At least from my point of view.

 

[RobGA]

“Some trees will heal just about any size scar.”

So true, saw this walking my dog the other day.

The tree has consumed a one way sign.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Today before and after cutback





Still moving the profile inward. This tree is one of those azaleas that don’t like to bud on old wood much.

Next fertilizer and insect product for lace bugs.

Too fast begging on other bonsai work to do more just yet.

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[Joe Dupre']

I wouldn't sweat it. Personally, I never worry about a scar healing. To me it's part of the character of the tree. I mostly make it more jagged, smear on a bit of wound paste and then a charcoal/ water wash. Later, I may do a bit of texture carving to match the bark. Mostly, my scars tend to disappear from casual observation. It irks me when someone looks that closely at my trees and picks them apart......................after first saying they like the tree. To each his own, though.

 

[Glaucus]

What about an approach graft across the scar? If you get a low shoot to backbud, haha not likely. Would seem like a lot of work to root a cutting, plant it right next to the trunk, approach graft it over the scar, and hope it fuses.
But, would make for a cool story & experiment. Might look add for a few years even after fusing, though.

 

[Mats Hagström]

I was reading Rick Garcia’s book and he has a really good chapter on making cuts on Azelias. How to do it, when to do it and the consequence of doing it incorrectly.

He points out the water line in Azaleas is quite correlated between branches and roots. Water and nutrients do not flow randomly though the cambial layer. If you do not keep foliage alive along the water line you can create segments of trunk necrosis. To prevent this for major cuts esp if there are no immediately live branches above or further out in the same water line he recommends cutting the branch in stages.

I’ve included a few examples from his book.

We need to learn the impact on the tree when we make major cuts. It varies from species to species. Always consider the energy flow from the foliage to the roots. If we eliminate the flow of energy and there is nothing above we create a dead zone. In these areas the tree will not have the capacity to back bud and grafting becomes impossible. Trees like pines can shift the energy flow laterally along the cambial layer to some degree which Azaleas can not. Rick Garcia’s book has a lot of general bonsai information making the book a bit redundant for those who have a good collection of books. It also sheds light on important issues and techniques which are azalea specific.

Best,

Mats H

 

[leatherback]

He points out the water line in Azaleas is quite correlated between branches and roots. Water and nutrients do not flow randomly though the cambial layer. If you do not keep foliage alive along the water line you can create segments of trunk necrosis. To prevent this for major cuts esp if there are no immediately live branches above or further out in the same water line he recommends cutting the branch in stages.

I’ve included a few examples from his book.

We need to learn the impact on the tree when we make major cuts. It varies from species to species. Always consider the energy flow from the foliage to the roots. If we eliminate the flow of energy and there is nothing above we create a dead zone. In these areas the tree will not have the capacity to back bud and grafting becomes impossible.

This is certainly not specific to Azalea, but to most species. I find azaleas are plenty capable of redirecting sapflow if proper pruning techniques are used and find that most deciduous species will end up with die-back along the trunk line if pruned with poor methods or timing.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Darn!

Just checked the images and they are all after!

Here’s one before


After trimming


Will now let the tree grow out with little clipping until next year and how for more options.

Sorry
DSD sends

 

[Paradox]

Ok so I wasnt confused for no reason.
I was like.....did he only cut off one branch and Im not seeing it??

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Yea, so sorry!

Best
DSD sends