Boxwood not looking good...

Mike123

Shohin
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This is my very first tree that I've collected. This Boxwood is important to me because it really got me excited to learn all I can about Bonsai. Kinda bummed about how it's doing...
I've been researching and winter burn seems pretty common with box. Thats what i thought was going on. it was over wintered in my unheated shed. Then I was reading about when the soil freezes and we have unseasonably warm days for a stretch, the leaves look to pull water from roots but can't because soil is frozen. So basically it dehydrates.. I guess it comes out of dormancy? So I have a boxwood that I really like not looking to good... I guess my question is how do I prevent this from happening? If that's what's going on. And also should I trim off dead leaves? And does it look like what I described? Has anyone had the same problem?
Here's some pics. I did post this in other thread but wanted some more input from you guys. Thanks
 

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Beautiful trunk on that one.
I don't think it looks too bad... I'll let colder weather Bnuts field the freezing boxwood issue but If it is that I would think you'd be fine and just let it recover. You don't need to pull leaves. Make sure not to overwater it as it's recovering.
Ian
 
Wow! That's a nice boxwood. Was is recently collected or is this a new problem on an established tree. I assume this is a new problem, but I have to ask.
 
It was collected feb. of 2013, my first collected tree. I really didn't over winter it to long when collected. I guess what I mean I collected then kept in closed porch until spring. Then outside. This winter kept in unheated shed like I posted earlier. So far i havent wired it any, just pruned. Mostly just dead branches that I removed. So a little pruning that's it! Was really excited to get this. What I posted I think is what has happened. I hope. Didn't know if others have experienced this. So,I know next step to help it recover.
 
I was hoping this would get easier as you go a long! I am still learning a lot and will for a long time, but as your tree moves forward you hate to push it backwards! Ya no what I mean?
 
I dont get any winter damage like you show. This was a lousy long and cold winter too. Mine was kept outside all year long. As you can see, there is nothing wrong with the foliage here. It may be different because this is a kingsville and yours looks to be English or common or Japanese, cant really tell. You do have a killer trunk and shape. I would not cut anything until the rest of the canopy gets back to a good solid green. These things do weird stuff, so dont give up hope. Water and feed sensibly and dont go overboard. Keep it in morning sun/afternoon shade.
 

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Good advise! I think mine has suffered a lot more damage though. Those leaves arent coming back. Wasn't sure how'll to try to prevent in the future. Your climate is similar. Can't believe it was out all winter! I also get a lot of wind in my yard. I live behind a high school. Open fields back up to my yard. I read that even a 5 mph winds bumps up evaporation by 200%!! So maybe a bunch of factors contributed to leaf die back. Trees currently in closed porch because of the low temps we are having. I think I'm going to have to make a wind screen. Maybe not as nice as Judy's !! She has a awesome set up! But something...
 
I live in the Florida Panhandle and my "Crazy Trunk" Boxwood has what appears to be the same issues. It's hard to see in the photo but it's the only one I have close at hand. It will be interesting to know what everyone thinks. I wonder if there's a way to encourage growth closer to the trunk before branch die off?
 

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I was hoping this would get easier as you go a long! I am still learning a lot and will for a long time, but as your tree moves forward you hate to push it backwards! Ya no what I mean?

It doesn't get easier ! Keep your tree completely out of the wind and give it just a bit of morning sun. They are understory plants and can grow well in shade. It's a nice tree I hope it makes it.
 
Was the soil too wet over the winter?
 
Wasn't sure if I should take a look at the roots? But really leaning towards frozen roots, unseasonable temps., bringing out of dormancy,Leaves asking for water but roots couldn't provide, then outside with cold dry winds. Will keep out of wind, and provide more shade.
 
This is a show quality tree that is dying. Cut off anything that is stressing it like the guide wires. Sorry this tree is well quite awesome except for the health. This guys needs intensive care. Slip pot the whole root ball into pure pumice into a larger pot.
 
Ok I'm going to leave in closed porch. No wind. It gets filtered light through plastic on screens in porch. My only thing is I don't have pumice. Will turface do? And can you explain slip potting for me. I fertilized a coupl of days ago. Should I not for a while?
 
Slip potting means just lift the tree out of it's current pot, and place it gently into a larger pot, then put the new media (Turface and bark will be fine for a boxwood) around the existing rootball. No fert till that thing shows definite signs of good health.
For windbreaks, I use old exterior doors on their side to create a tree corral. 3 doors form a "U" and when placed against my house makes a square as big as a door is tall.
For now, leave it on your porch until the threat of frost is past, which around DC is something like May 10. Could be a few weeks later for you.
Keep that beauty alive!
 
Ok will do. Gotta make a bigger training box! The current one is 24 long 18 deep and 8 high so will be quite big. But I'll get on it after work. Should I mist it? And thanks for the input!!
 
I won't slip pot that tree. It is in a big container and recently collected. Disturbing it will just cause more problems. The damage have been done (freezing I believe)...let it recuperate by giving it the best conditions you can...no more freezing temps if possible.

Good luck!
 
I've noticed and even posted a thread about a similar case with my boxwoods but got no input.

I observed that newly collected tree's leaves tend to get freeze damaged much easier than established ones. I believe it has to do with the trees reaction to compensate for the loss (of leaves, roots, etc.). My theory is that the remaining leaves go in a hyper drive production (photosynthesis) and stock pile more nutrients (in water) than usual in the leaves itself, making them available as needed. However, they get more prone to freezing damage in that state. Not sure if I am unto something or just my mind.
 
I just re-read your couple of early posts about this tree. If it spent the winter in a shed then wind isnt the culprit. I'm thinking it dried out. I would hold off repotting unless this tree really hits the skids. Boxwoods are notoriously easy to keep happy in soil that's not so great. The one I showed was almost potbound in turface + pine bark fines. The root systems are amazing. Pay close attention to watering and use the chopstick trick, and dont let it get sunburned. Remember the morning sun, and also pay attention to air temps in the room it is in. Could act like a greenhouse and might get overly warm quickly.
 
I've noticed and even posted a thread about a similar case with my boxwoods but got no input.

I observed that newly collected tree's leaves tend to get freeze damaged much easier than established ones. I believe it has to do with the trees reaction to compensate for the loss (of leaves, roots, etc.). My theory is that the remaining leaves go in a hyper drive production (photosynthesis) and stock pile more nutrients (in water) than usual in the leaves itself, making them available as needed. However, they get more prone to freezing damage in that state. Not sure if I am unto something or just my mind.
Are you just guessing that they get more prone to freezing, or is that what the last part refers to?
 
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