Chinese elms

Si Nguyen

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Thanks DaveV, for the kind comment. I love the exposed root style. I have a lot of trees with this style. But mostly because I am a bit lazy to work on getting a conventional nebari. I tend to just use whatever I got and work with it, rather than trying to force a formal style on it. Elm3 has very nice wide and natural nebari I think.
Si
 

Bill S

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Hey Si, great job on these.
AT MABS conference this past week end we had Charles Ceronio in, from S. Africa, he does a lot with the umbrella style, I think he'd like the umbrella you created.

If I might make a small styling suggestion, w/ tree 2 if you take what looks like a branch at the bottom right of the canopy, and move it down a bit to make a little negative spacee it wouls be just a bit better. I think it wouls help the flow of the tree, just a bit.
 

Si Nguyen

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Hi Bill, I'd love to see how Mr. Ceronio's do the umbrella style. Do you have any pictures from his demo?
Mine is basically a reverse broom style. For trees with 2 or more branches coming off at the same spot on top but are not symmetrical enough for a classic broom style, then an umbrella style would be a good styling option. Elms are naturally weeping in nature, so they are very appropriate for this style.
I will go out and see what you suggested for on elm2. Thanks for the suggestion.
Si
 
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Si Nguyen

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Somebody asked me for a clarification of what I mean by an umbrella style for this particular tree and how I could start one from a typical broom style tree. So instead of trying to explain by words, I think a sketch here would clear things up. The key styling point here, as seen in the last picture, is that one needs to have enough front and back branches to create a complete round canopy, just like all the spokes in an umbrella. And, the foliage should be cleared away from the inside of the tree, like the open space inside the umbrella. This open space beneath the tree is very pleasing, because one can imagine standing underneath tree and looking up into the branches and being sheltered by them. Most Japanese styled bonsai don't have this open space. I try to create this open space in most of my bonsai, especially for deciduous trees.
Hope this helps.
Si
 

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Si Nguyen

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Hi everybody, here are some more elms I worked on this weekend (Jan 15, 2011).

This first elm was started about 3 years ago from a root cutting. It grew freely for one year. Then I wired all the branches 2 years ago. Last year it was styled as an exposed root style and planted high in a really nice Dick Ryerson pot. Today it got root trimmed and went into a new white literati pot. The choice of this white pot is inspired by the recent thread of white pots by Paul (pjkatich). This elm is 8 in. tall.
 

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Si Nguyen

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This elm was started from a root cutting about 6 years ago. It was initially styled as an umbrella style. Then I removed some of the branches restyled it as an informal upright with a slight wind-swept look. It is 10 inch tall. I bare-rooted it and potted it in this white pot 2 weeks ago.
 

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Si Nguyen

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This third elm was started in 2004. It was a mallsai from the flea market. I had removed most of the branches, lowered it a bit, and regrew a new apex in the last 3-4 years. It finally have enough foliage on top for a presentable apex. It went into its first bonsai pot 2 years ago. It is 20 in. tall.
 

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Si Nguyen

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Here's another elm I have in a white pot. It was started about 6-7 years ago. I changed the front on it a few times so the apex kept getting chopped off. That's why it is still not so full yet. I still can't decide on the front of this tree. It is 20 in. tall.
 

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Redwood Ryan

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Great trees Si!

Personally, I feel the third picture is your front for the last tree you posted. I'm not so much a fan of how the apex leans away (or appears to) from the viewer in the first picture.
 

DaveV

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Hi Si: I also like the third picture for the front. I know it's hard to see 3-D on a computer screen but the third photo looks the best to me.

DaveV.
 

Si Nguyen

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Si, could you start a thread talking about how and when you do root cuttings? Thanks!

Hi Milehigh, there must be some threads on this topic already. But I will start one next time I bare-root an elm tree for you, maybe next month. Thanks!
 

Si Nguyen

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Hi Ryan and Dave, I agree. That third pic is actually very close to the current front of the tree. I will submit some more pics later. Based on the root spread, that should be the front, but the apex location is still off. The apex is pointing forward in that pic, but it is still off somehow. This tree is very annoying to me. Thanks for your comments guys.
 

Smoke

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Hi Milehigh, there must be some threads on this topic already. But I will start one next time I bare-root an elm tree for you, maybe next month. Thanks!

Your answer is in this post Milehigh!
 

culanluasg

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Hi everybody, I trimmed a few Chinese elms today, and I thought I would show them here for your reading enjoyment. Elms grow very fast around here.
Here's the first one. It was started from a root cutting about 4 years ago. It went into this first bonsai pot in January2010. It is about 11 inches tall. It is basically an umbrella style tree, but with all the branches weeping down instead of up. Any critiques or comments would be greatly appreciated.
Oh,it's beautiful Mr Si Nguyen ,thanks for sharing
 

pjkatich

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Very nice selection of Chinese elms in white pots Si.

I like your approach to styling Chinese elms. To my eyes, these trees have a very distinct penjing qualilty to them.

In my opinion, you have successfully incorporated this species major disadvantage (fat, tubular roots) into the overall design of your trees. I also like that you have chosen to use round pots with this last batch of elms. The round pots compliment the trees very well and add to the success of your designs.

Thanks for sharing.

Regards,
Paul
 

Si Nguyen

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Your answer is in this post Milehigh!

Right on Smoke! Starting now is good time to do root work. In tropical climate, one can root chop anytime. In mild temperate region, early Spring to late fall would be good. In really cold region, where these elms truly go dormant, then late Spring to late summer is good. There's nothing to it. But I will try to do a proper thread just for you Milehigh. I have many root cuttings in all stages, so I can do a thread starting from taking the new cuttings to styling and potting up a finished tree.
 
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