chopped up Azaleas

[Glaucus]

Does the first one also have fertilizer burn on the tips already? This is so common cycle. You have an azalea that is yellow with chlorosis. Then you fertilize it and you actually burn the tips. I've done it myself.
the second and third ones look quite good.

If you add 0.05 to 0.2 g of chelated iron to 1 liter of water, it will have a slight orangy-reddish colour and not increase the salt load on the water at all. If you use that several times.
You could go as high as 1 g of Fe-EDDHA 6% to one liter of water. But that will be blood red and I don't recommend using that much. Better use smaller amounts several times. You only need 10 uM of Iron(II) in the soil anyway. Which is like 0.01g/l.
It is a tiny amount compared to what would cause fertilizer burn. Or what would be in a complete liquid fertilizer using the recommended dosage.


I am confused about what you are saying about sulphur. Sulphur does not dissolve in water. It is not a salt. It takes 6 months to a year for microbes to eat sulphur and create sulphuric acid. Which will acidify the soil.

 

[kale]

Does the first one also have fertilizer burn on the tips already? This is so common cycle. You have an azalea that is yellow with chlorosis. Then you fertilize it and you actually burn the tips. I've done it myself.
the second and third ones look quite good.

If you add 0.05 to 0.2 g of chelated iron to 1 liter of water, it will have a slight orangy-reddish colour and not increase the salt load on the water at all. If you use that several times.
You could go as high as 1 g of Fe-EDDHA 6% to one liter of water. But that will be blood red and I don't recommend using that much. Better use smaller amounts several times. You only need 10 uM of Iron(II) in the soil anyway. Which is like 0.01g/l.
It is a tiny amount compared to what would cause fertilizer burn. Or what would be in a complete liquid fertilizer using the recommended dosage.


I am confused about what you are saying about sulphur. Sulphur does not dissolve in water. It is not a salt. It takes 6 months to a year for microbes to eat sulphur and create sulphuric acid. Which will acidify the soil.

Yes, I am just trying to acidify the soil. I thought maybe I could mix it in water but if its not dissolving like I was thinking it must be a wasted effort. I will def move on to the chelated iron. The burnt tips are from last year. This years new growth isnt burnt but not very green. Thanks for all your insights!

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

You are most welcome.

What media are these planted in?

Glad it’s looking better now. If on the mend shouldn’t take long to completely green up.

Did also note some random tip issues.

This is av frequent spring issue here and occurs to the older leaves both in potted and landscape azaleas

Have been puzzled by this situation for a number of years and have thought it might be early spring damage…. Possibly due to the frequent rains. Dunno. Never send to bother the deer scale dead past June.

The newer growth looking punk is an issue. A couple things could have caused this including winter storage damage, damaging the roots of this plant due to cold and or dryness. Could be nutrient deficient media, yet if all are in the same media, somehow doubt this.

Thecreason why we use osmocote plus 1/4 strength (to not damage roots) and miracid (1/2 strength with kelp and humic acid). Is both these fertilizers add trace minerals including iron, and a steady source of macronutrients at a nice ratio.

The osmocote is a good a long lasting source fertilizer. While the miracid gives an effective quick shot to the plants of all nutrients.

Have been testing biogold for three years, yet find it just gunks up the surface of any media over time. Better to use a granule organic in tea bags that has micro nutrients. We tested this, it worked very well. But filling hundreds of teabags was just too much hassle for our operation… not to mention chasing them around the yard!

Best
DSD sends

 

[Glaucus]

I right now have literally zero azaleas with burned tips. What I do have is azaleas that turn red or orange, because of drought stress. Or azaleas that are turning pale green, almost yellow, because of a lack of fertilizer.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Yeah, each situation g has its own issues. Almost think the 14F freeze caused unseen damage this year. All is coming pack
Back green as can be now.

 

[kale]

You are most welcome.

What media are these planted in?

Glad it’s looking better now. If on the mend shouldn’t take long to completely green up.

Did also note some random tip issues.

This is av frequent spring issue here and occurs to the older leaves both in potted and landscape azaleas

Have been puzzled by this situation for a number of years and have thought it might be early spring damage…. Possibly due to the frequent rains. Dunno. Never send to bother the deer scale dead past June.

The newer growth looking punk is an issue. A couple things could have caused this including winter storage damage, damaging the roots of this plant due to cold and or dryness. Could be nutrient deficient media, yet if all are in the same media, somehow doubt this.

Thecreason why we use osmocote plus 1/4 strength (to not damage roots) and miracid (1/2 strength with kelp and humic acid). Is both these fertilizers add trace minerals including iron, and a steady source of macronutrients at a nice ratio.

The osmocote is a good a long lasting source fertilizer. While the miracid gives an effective quick shot to the plants of all nutrients.

Have been testing biogold for three years, yet find it just gunks up the surface of any media over time. Better to use a granule organic in tea bags that has micro nutrients. We tested this, it worked very well. But filling hundreds of teabags was just too much hassle for our operation… not to mention chasing them around the yard!

Best
DSD sends

I repotted into kanuma this spring so I think that is why it is slowly recovering. Last year it started turning pale yellow and had me going down a rabbit hole about high soil ph, alkaline water, and poor nutrient uptake. So I did exactly what glaucus mentioned is a common mistake and hit it too hard w fertilizer to try to green it up. My mid sized one of the three also started to yellow but I didnt fry it thankfully. The biggest of the 3 is going on its second full season in kanuma so I’m hopeful the other two will follow suit! I used to use miracid but havent seen it at the hardware stores lately but that is good stuff. With the osmocote, do you mix it in the soil at repot? I have just sprinkled it on the top of all my plants so its just sitting on top of the substrate. Prob not optimal? Also, this year I top dressed them all with a layer of sphagnum moss. I think thats also been helpful.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

I repotted into kanuma this spring so I think that is why it is slowly recovering. Last year it started turning pale yellow and had me going down a rabbit hole about high soil ph, alkaline water, and poor nutrient uptake. So I did exactly what glaucus mentioned is a common mistake and hit it too hard w fertilizer to try to green it up. My mid sized one of the three also started to yellow but I didnt fry it thankfully. The biggest of the 3 is going on its second full season in kanuma so I’m hopeful the other two will follow suit! I used to use miracid but havent seen it at the hardware stores lately but that is good stuff. With the osmocote, do you mix it in the soil at repot? I have just sprinkled it on the top of all my plants so its just sitting on top of the substrate. Prob not optimal? Also, this year I top dressed them all with a layer of sphagnum moss. I think thats also been helpful.

Ok, likely damaged roots from water washing. That would likely cause this issue. Keep in open shade if at all possible until it greens up. Should improve as the plant grows but will need some TLC for awhile.

Kanuma is acidic so please don’t go down the acid rabbit hole on the media again.

Water, that could be an issue… but not too sure it’s an issue. But for future purposes check your local water supplier for their recent Water Quality Report for hardness (carbonates). Denver seems to be on the borderline of good to moderate.

Osmocote Plus is spread evenly on the surface. Sometimes when there is a slope we just push pellets in with tweezers to keep it in place. Definitely do not just want to throw it in one spot.

Miracid is also marketed as Miracle gro. Sold everywhere. Think it’s a marketing scheme. Checked the analysis. It’s the exact same on macros and micros.

Cheers
DSD sends.