Development ideas

Mimstrel

Sapling
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I have been growing this Amur maple for three years (purchased for $10 on clearance) and am trying to decide where to cut it back to this winter. Thought I would share and see what other people would do if it was theirs.
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I did take it back a little over the summer. I’ve learned that this tree is quite vigorous and can handle some summer pruning without any theatrics. The first summer was pretty rough (the other Amur maple I bought at the same time died back almost to the ground) but since then I’ve felt really good about how this tree has responded. Anyway, if you are thinking that the top is a little sparse, summer pruning is why.
 

Rivian

Chumono
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second picture - cut the trunk back to above the branch that is on the same level as the window in the background and make that the leader, at least for now. Perhaps try some wiring on the branches, too.
 

sorce

Nonsense Rascal
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I wouldn't cut it back this year.

I'd try to introduce some movement into those first 2 branches, and eventually cut back to the one that didn't break!

Sorce
 

one_bonsai

Shohin
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Yikes!... That nebari. Might want to consider ground layering it at some point.
 

Mimstrel

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second picture - cut the trunk back to above the branch that is on the same level as the window in the background and make that the leader, at least for now. Perhaps try some wiring on the branches, too.
This is where I've been planning to cut back to.

I'd try to introduce some movement into those first 2 branches, and eventually cut back to the one that didn't break!
I do plan to wire the first two branches, they need to go out more and less straight up. I had planned to the first to be sacrificial (hence it being allowed to grow perfectly straight thus far and keep the second (but it will get cut back probably next year to start adding some taper, so I haven't been too worried about it being super straight), but I keep changing my mind, so I think I will go ahead and put some wire on and see which one looks better once they're going in a better direction.

Yikes!... That nebari. Might want to consider ground layering it at some point.
It's a work in progress, lol. Believe it or not, this is a heavily improved version.
I don't believe it will ever be a traditionally desirable nebari, but there are some features that appeal to me personally, so I plan to continue working on it instead of ground layering. Now, my other amur maple? That one, ground layering is a heavy possibility. It's still recovering from last year's rootwork (it wasn't as vigorous as this tree) but maybe next year? What's a good time of year to start a ground layer for a maple?
 

leatherback

The Treedeemer
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I would not layer. Next change, at repot, work the rootball bottom-up. Keep all laterals, remove all verticals. Then repot deep, covering at least an inch more of the base in a shallow wide container.

I would also cut off the long straight section of trunk, and work from one of the two small branches at the base.

Every year or two, cut back the new leader a little bit higher to aid in closing the main cuts, development of the nebari and avoid creating new large cuts. In 3-5 years I think you can have a decent nebari and a great trunk line. If I look at mine, these thicken up fast if given space to do so.

This was a 3 inch tall seedling in April 2018:

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In Jan 2020, including a trim in spring 2019 to ensure tight lower internodes:
20200119-R14A3014-30.jpg
 

penumbra

Imperial Masterpiece
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I would not layer. Next change, at repot, work the rootball bottom-up. Keep all laterals, remove all verticals. Then repot deep, covering at least an inch more of the base in a shallow wide container.

I would also cut off the long straight section of trunk, and work from one of the two small branches at the base.

Every year or two, cut back the new leader a little bit higher to aid in closing the main cuts, development of the nebari and avoid creating new large cuts. In 3-5 years I think you can have a decent nebari and a great trunk line. If I look at mine, these thicken up fast if given space to do so.

This was a 3 inch tall seedling in April 2018:

View attachment 321880

In Jan 2020, including a trim in spring 2019 to ensure tight lower internodes:
View attachment 321879
All of this but do it in late winter / early spring when buds start to swell.
 

Mimstrel

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No worries, you two. I did get the time frame from leatherback‘s post, but if I didn’t know when the best time to repot is, penumbra‘s post would be important clarification. I appreciate both of your input!
 

one_bonsai

Shohin
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I would not layer. Next change, at repot, work the rootball bottom-up. Keep all laterals, remove all verticals. Then repot deep, covering at least an inch more of the base in a shallow wide container.

I would also cut off the long straight section of trunk, and work from one of the two small branches at the base.

Every year or two, cut back the new leader a little bit higher to aid in closing the main cuts, development of the nebari and avoid creating new large cuts. In 3-5 years I think you can have a decent nebari and a great trunk line.

I don't get how this fixes the nebari.
 

leatherback

The Treedeemer
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I don't get how this fixes the nebari.
A nebari does not develop in one sitting. Air layering will get you a crown of thin roots which then need to be developed to get taper, to get variation from root to root and to get some interest. It also needs time to hide the scar from the cuts made in the bark.

If you spend the same amount of energy on reducing thick roots, stimulating younger roots and trimming the deep roots you will build the nebari. Thing of the roots the same way you develop the crown of the tree. Regular corrections of the bigger faults will eventually get you a nice-looking result. It is not the individual action, but the accumulation over time that makes the difference.
 
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