JoeR
Masterpiece
Wow that is a big difference. Thanks for sharing that with us. Saved me some years in trial and error time.
You've convinced me!
You've convinced me!
I like what you have done. The base looks good with the removal of the heavy wood. Start it in a colander and the root pad will develop really well for the correct size pot.
If this picture is the last point it has been trimmed to, I would take it back to the two red lines I show. The large chop is a no brainer and the small cut is right above a line node which will push a bud once chopped to that point. Make sure to seal the small one to preserve the line node. The large chop I show is to shorten the segment. If left as long as it is in the picture, it will show a long non-tapered neck there when in winter sillouette and you will not be happy with that.
View attachment 68093
Do you do the root pruning while the tree is still in the ground developing trunk thickness? And then return the tree to the ground? Follow-up to that question......When still growing for trunk thickness, and you prune the roots, do you leave the top growth alone to continue thickening efforts?....letting the tree continue to grow tall and wild....taller tree equals thicker base?Don't let the roots grow wild. Dig it up every few years to work the base or you'll spend years trying to correct a bad nebari.
Do you do the root pruning while the tree is still in the ground developing trunk thickness? And then return the tree to the ground? Follow-up to that question......When still growing for trunk thickness, and you prune the roots, do you leave the top growth alone to continue thickening efforts?....letting the tree continue to grow tall and wild....taller tree equals thicker base?
Thanks! It's been a couple years since I have root cut any of my ground growing trees. This spring, I know it will get here one of these days, I should pull the trees out and cut the roots back. I still need to thicken the lower trunk so I have hesitated to cut anything....above or below the ground. It's a growth area I am uncertain about.Yes. I dig it up every couple of years and cut back the roots then plant it back in the ground. I grow in the ground to develop the trunk and in the pot to develop the branches. It didn't take too long to grow the second trunk section after the initial chop on the nursery tree. Maybe two years. In my climate, it will grow 7-8 feet in a year. So I just let it grow, and chop back in early spring as the buds begin to swell. Sometimes I dig it up and work the roots at the same time. Cutting back in early spring result in vigorous growth. All of the trees energy gets directed into just a few buds and you get vigorous growth, big leaves and long internodes. Digging it up every couple of years or so is important - otherwise you get runaway root growth that's difficult to deal with down the road.
Thanks! It's been a couple years since I have root cut any of my ground growing trees. This spring, I know it will get here one of these days, I should pull the trees out and cut the roots back. I still need to thicken the lower trunk so I have hesitated to cut anything....above or below the ground. It's a growth area I am uncertain about.
Thanks. Very encouraging. I understand the long big roots....and the problems.For what it's worth, here in Houston I did not notice any difference in top growth when I cut back the roots. It grew 8 feet a year whether I worked on the roots or not. Just avoid giant roots developing. You'll end up with an unbalanced nebari setting yourself up for a big air layer job or years of repair to the root base.
I'm looking for some good saws now. Cant see the name on this one. I like the look of it. What make is it Scott?I really like these pull saws
I'm looking for some good saws now. Cant see the name on this one. I like the look of it. What make is it Scott?
Do you do all this kind of cutting with the fine blade ? I cant decide fine or medium....?Silky Pocketboy 130
I use the PocketBoy 130 with the extra fine saw blade. The handle is a purple color on mine....I believe designating the saw tooth type. Anyway, excellent saws. Last a long time. The blade extends with two different positions. The blade lock is very secure. My cutting has been on hardwoods American Elm mostly. Has a nifty plastic snap-shut case. The blade is replaceable...but on Amazon it's only about three dollars more to buy the entire saw. Very clean smooth cutting.Silky Pocketboy 130
http://www.amazon.com/Silky-Folding...id=1459999812&sr=1-4&keywords=silky+pocketboy
That's the fine tooth saw. They come more aggressive as well. Good saws.
Do you do all this kind of cutting with the fine blade ? I cant decide fine or medium....?