Grow box size and tile

[GailC]

Trying to determine what size grow boxes I need to build for JM cuttings. Is double the size of the root pad enough?

Also, how do you attach a small tree to a tile? These cuttings are too small to screw to a board so I thought I'd use a tile.

 

[PeaceLoveBonsai]

Could you cut a hole in a piece of tile, board, plate, etc and plant the cutting through the hole? I did this w/ some seedlings recently. Hoping that the tree will naturally grow out of the hole and essentially ground layer itself w/ radial roots.


In this case, I planted in the ground, but you could do the same thing in a grow box, no?

 

[GailC]

That's a good idea but it won't work for me. These cuttings have too many branches.
They have good radial roots already, I'm looking to keep them that way while the trees grow up.

 

[PeaceLoveBonsai]

Ahhh, I see. Keep us posted on your solution, I'm sure others have a similar issue.

 

[A. Gorilla]

Put a slit down the radius and bend it open.

 

[Anthony]

What can also be done is to select say 6 roots, splay out, and drill holes in the board.
Use twine [ you want it to decay and not cut into the root ] to tie the roots down.
Good Day
Anthony

 

[GailC]

That's perfect, thank you @Anthony

 

[sorce]

I might assume leave some of them just as is....

With full steam this year you may very well be able to get a screw into them next year.

IMO....

If the roots are already radial, and mostly flat..

You don't even need to worry about a tile yet.

They will keep throwing roots at the surface....
Just keep cutting back to those.

With limited space and small starters....
I have always just thrown as wide and flat a river rock I could find right underneath.

At repot, you gotta dig up into the center a bit to pluck the rock out...
But when it's gone, you have a lot of good space to see, from the bottom, what plane of roots to keep and cut, and you can get a tool right in there.

It also keep the area generally clean so cuts on the bottom heal better, and you have a path for a screw when you can drill it down.

Sorce

 

[GailC]

Hmm, that is a idea too. I'm really wanting to prevent downwards growth of larger roots at the center mass.

Using a flat rock would be easier then trying to tie a small tree to a board and I do have plenty of very flat rocks.

 

[sorce]

Hmm, that is a idea too. I'm really wanting to prevent downwards growth of larger roots at the center mass.

Using a flat rock would be easier then trying to tie a small tree to a board and I do have plenty of very flat rocks.

Hey Gail!

Sometimes I forget what I put in there....



But it works real good!
No tie wires anywhere.

In a colander with 8822....
What doesn't get pruned off of that over-hung root mass folds up right easy...

You can easily pick out heavy roots to clip from inside the hole.

An actual river rock hole under a maple.



I don't squeeze lemons or use the P word...

But this is easy!

Sorce

 

[M. Frary]

What doesn't get pruned off of that over-hung root mass folds up right easy

Like folding roots under themselves?
That would defeat the whole exercise of putting it on a tile.

 

[sorce]

Like folding roots under themselves?
That would defeat the whole exercise of putting it on a tile.

Nah nah...

Folds up back into the flat plane!

Good Morning!

Sorce

 

[M. Frary]

Good Morning

You too!
Why not cut them to shape.
They've been in a colander so the root pad will be fairly dense.
I've never folded roots under.
I just cut them back.

 

[Anthony]

Gail,

the tie the roots part is to guarantee the spread out shape.
Some even carve the wood to lead the roots out.

The idea is the roots grow outwards and thicken.

Not so sure that any roots---------- should fold back under ?
Good Day
Anthony

 

[sorce]

folded roots under.

More Nahs!

The fold roots under thing I was talking to\arguing with Adair about....
Different scenario.

This here...

Then you can keep increasing plate/rock size as the keeper parts extend.

Now that I am repotting later, over 38F, I think I'll be able to hit the roots a little harder without worry.

But I keep W.P. in my head and will probly never go Ebihara hard.

Sorce

 

[M. Frary]

But I keep W.P. in my head and will probly never go Ebihara hard

I bet he likes Germany better.
But now I smell what you're cookin'

 

[sorce]

I bet he likes Germany better.
But now I smell what you're cookin'

Lolol!

Germany!

Sorce

 

[Adair M]

I've posted this before in the Ebihara Maples thread.

It uses a board, but doesn't require screwing the trunk down onto it. ( however, you could drive a thin nail thru the board and impale the bottom of the trunk onto it!)

 

[Adair M]

More Nahs!

The fold roots under thing I was talking to\arguing with Adair about....
Different scenario.

This here...View attachment 141131

Then you can keep increasing plate/rock size as the keeper parts extend.

Now that I am repotting later, over 38F, I think I'll be able to hit the roots a little harder without worry.

But I keep W.P. in my head and will probly never go Ebihara hard.

Sorce

I don't remember that conversation...

Ebihara vs Walter Pall: no question, Ebihara's techniques are quantum leaps superior to Walter's.

 

[AZbonsai]

I use this set up for larger pots. I put spacers under the pot so water can flow under to drain. Not rocket science or earth shattering but it works.