Has anyone used the Masakuni Pruning saw MAS-0238?

[Miguelito's Blade]

I'm curious about how useful an addition to my tool bag it might be.

 

[Miguelito's Blade]

bump

 

[Ohmy222]

I have not but I love this saw from Kaneshin for small cuts

[KANESHIN of bonsai tool]Small bonsai saw - KANESHIN - "Weight 200g" No.84B

For larger cuts, this one is amazing, I have a fine tooth one and large. It is so much better than the 5-6 I tried previously.

Amazon.com

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

I have not but I love this saw from Kaneshin for small cuts

[KANESHIN of bonsai tool]Small bonsai saw - KANESHIN - "Weight 200g" No.84B

For larger cuts, this one is amazing, I have a fine tooth one and large. It is so much better than the 5-6 I tried previously.

Amazon.com

I have that one too, it bound and bent almost immediately. It’s a pull-stroke cut, so any resistance on the push stroke causes trouble.
Although…I do still use it.

 

[Ohmy222]

I have that one too, it bound and bent almost immediately. It’s a pull-stroke cut, so any resistance on the push stroke causes trouble.
Although…I do still use it.

Yeah, I find the less pressure on any handsaw works better. I only use the Kaneshin saw in tight spaces. I will always try to use the silky pocket boy saw if possible. I can’t recommend it enough.

 

[Miguelito's Blade]

Thanks for the responses. I have a small pull saw like the one you guys mention, and it works great (though I can't for the life of me remember where it came from.) The thing I found interesting about the Masakuni saw was that it seems actually meant for air layering by cutting a wide cut. I looks like it would be perfect for air layering.

 

[penumbra]

I will always try to use the silky pocket boy saw if possible

Went through several Felcos and they are excellent, but Silky is the best by far.

 

[bwaynef]

Does any US bonsai retailer carry the kaneshin saw?

 

[Miguelito's Blade]

Here's a photo of the saw. I should have posted pics from the start but I didn't. Sorry. Here's a link to it: https://www.fromjapan-kt.com/product/708

 

[River's Edge]

View attachment 416135
Here's a photo of the saw. I should have posted pics from the start but I didn't. Sorry. Here's a link to it: https://www.fromjapan-kt.com/product/708

It is specifically designed for air layers, cannot be used for cutting branches.

 

[Ohmy222]

Does any US bonsai retailer carry the kaneshin saw?

Bonsai Saws

Saws for removing branches. Fine teeth and beveled edges make for clean cuts. Narrow Blade Saw for removing branches in tight spaces. 8.8" length, 4" blade Silky 130mm Pocket Boy fine teeth. 6.5" folded, 11.3 extended, 4.5" blade ARS folding saw. 4" blade, plastic handle. Made in Japan

store.bonsaitonight.com

 

[Miguelito's Blade]

It is specifically designed for air layers, cannot be used for cutting branches.

That's what I thought it was for. I was just curious if anyone had used one.

 

[River's Edge]

That's what I thought it was for. I was just curious if anyone had used one.

I have used the concept, I decided not to buy the masakuni version, instead I modified a very coarse wood rasp for the same purpose air layering. It worked well with a greater response of radial root response than the typical straight edge sharp circular scoring. It also tends to break the fibres, therefore less likely of leaving a possible bridge and preventing a successful air layer. The concept was well described by Masakuni Kawasumi II in his book " The Secret techniques of bonsai" ,2005 Chapter Four Toriki : Layering. It is called the new Toriki scraper in his text. To Quote:
" the new scraper offers another advantage: the exposed area will not have straight, clear cut edges as when a wire or knife has been used to pare away the bark, so the roots will grow less artificially." Here is the example used in the book to illustrate the difference. When I used a similar tool based on the same concept
I noticed the same difference.

 

[Miguelito's Blade]

I have used the concept, I decided not to buy the masakuni version, instead I modified a very coarse wood rasp for the same purpose air layering. It worked well with a greater response of radial root response than the typical straight edge sharp circular scoring. It also tends to break the fibres, therefore less likely of leaving a possible bridge and preventing a successful air layer. The concept was well described by Masakuni Kawasumi II in his book " The Secret techniques of bonsai" ,2005 Chapter Four Toriki : Layering. It is called the new Toriki scraper in his text. To Quote:
" the new scraper offers another advantage: the exposed area will not have straight, clear cut edges as when a wire or knife has been used to pare away the bark, so the roots will grow less artificially." Here is the example used in the book to illustrate the difference. When I used a similar tool based on the same concept
I noticed the same difference.
View attachment 416250

Thank you for describing your experience with a similar tool and for referral to Masakuni's book. That's the sort of information I was looking for. I don't have anything close to the sort of work-area and tools to craft my own tool from a rasp, so I think I will get the Masakuni version.

 

[Potawatomi13]

Nope. Another Silky Pocket Boy user.

 

[River's Edge]

Nope. Another Silky Pocket Boy user.

Silky makes great saws, I use one of theirs, foldable for collecting. expanding on the concept that any rough tooth saw or metal edge could be used to score an uneven edge for air layering and scraping the cambium off to prevent bridging. ARS is another good brand for small saws and scissors.
Similar to the use of an old carpentry saw to cut off the bottom of an established root ball to speed up the re-potting process. Not what the tool was originally intended for but it works fine for that purpose.

 

[Frozentreehugger]

I have used the concept, I decided not to buy the masakuni version, instead I modified a very coarse wood rasp for the same purpose air layering. It worked well with a greater response of radial root response than the typical straight edge sharp circular scoring. It also tends to break the fibres, therefore less likely of leaving a possible bridge and preventing a successful air layer. The concept was well described by Masakuni Kawasumi II in his book " The Secret techniques of bonsai" ,2005 Chapter Four Toriki : Layering. It is called the new Toriki scraper in his text. To Quote:
" the new scraper offers another advantage: the exposed area will not have straight, clear cut edges as when a wire or knife has been used to pare away the bark, so the roots will grow less artificially." Here is the example used in the book to illustrate the difference. When I used a similar tool based on the same concept
I noticed the same difference.
View attachment 416250

I also am going to modify a rasp . To make the air layer tool . Curious which rasp you used . They make solid rasp like a file or the air layer tool . There is also a cheese grater style rasp for wood . A similar tool is used in auto body work to rough remove body filler . Was thinking of the grater idea So what did you use and how did you modify it thanks

 

[River's Edge]

solid rasp like a file

This type with very coarse teeth. I modified it by cutting it down to a smaller size in length. Left only 3 inches for working edge, found that easier to handle and work with around the trunk or branch being air layered. So overall including the tang and handle it became an 7 inch overall length rather than roughly 15 or 16 inches long.
The same effect can be achieved by making the sharp cut as usual, stripping the bark and cambium as usual, and then taking a saw tooth edge to rough up the sharp cut at the top of the air layer. Just draw the saw blade down, It will score the cut edge unevenly giving a slight variety in root formation. At the same time it will increase the surface area for root production because of the irregular edge.

 

[Frozentreehugger]

As for a bonsai saw . There are multiple saws specifically for the art . But there are other options . In the fine wood working trade . And cabinet making . There are multiple fine tooth narrow bladed . Saws some of very high quality . Surpassing All but the best bonsai saws A lot of them from Japan . For collecting trees in the wild . And or cutting roots . My fathers lectures . About there is no faster way to ruin a chainsaw chain then to let it touch the ground . A search in any hardware store will turn up a handle that will accept blades . For construction reciprocating saws . These saws have a vast amount of blades available . Very fine for cutting metal and pipe . To large tooth blades for aggressive cutting . Even long blades for tree pruning . Blades are cheap and disposable . A handle several different blades . Is a great collecting tool .