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bwaynef
Masterpiece
Its possible that simply removing the moss will make the area inhospitable to them. Keep an eye on it. Keeping it dry will be good for the rotting wood also. You could probably effectively curb this situation with a systemic, imidacloprid being the go-to usually, but that may cause other issues. (Spider mites being the main one.) So you'll just be trading one issue for another. If you're still seeing a problem, you could go with a contact insecticide. Just about anything at the big box store will suffice for these pests.
That said, I'd take the wait and see approach. I'd think a healthy tree could overcome those pests.
That said, I'd take the wait and see approach. I'd think a healthy tree could overcome those pests.
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Deleted member 49943
Guest
Does the insecticidel soap kill nematodes? Would wire brushing away the rotting wood and throwing some diatomaceous earth down there help?
rockm
Spuds Moyogi
FWIW, I really wouldn't worry about any nematodes, ants or whatever--You may even have borers, from the look of that hole on the right...They're a symptom of the real issue with the tree...That problem is the rotting, soggy deadwood. It's bringing all those critters to your tree. Those creatures thrive in rotting wood and aren't really harming your tree for the most part.
That soggy deadwood, however, is however. It needs some extensive clean up and/or removal. It's all the way down into the soil, which is why the ants or termites have taken up residence.
If this were mine, I'd investigate how extensive the deadwood is, then consider removing most of it and then lime sulfuring the living hell out of the remainder. At this point, I'd wait until spring to do that (a location in your avatar would help us tremendously). Right now, I'd begin exploring and excavating the roots below the deadwood to get a better idea of how extensive it is.
That soggy deadwood, however, is however. It needs some extensive clean up and/or removal. It's all the way down into the soil, which is why the ants or termites have taken up residence.
If this were mine, I'd investigate how extensive the deadwood is, then consider removing most of it and then lime sulfuring the living hell out of the remainder. At this point, I'd wait until spring to do that (a location in your avatar would help us tremendously). Right now, I'd begin exploring and excavating the roots below the deadwood to get a better idea of how extensive it is.
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Deleted member 49943
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Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
FWIW rotting wood and the insects are not endangering the tree. The dead section is dead. The live section is live. Even though they are connected the dead and rooting wood does not take over the live section. Trees can live very well for hundreds of years with part dead. Think of some of the old giant sequoias that have enough dead to drive a car through.
Dead wood on bonsai can be accidental or done on purpose. Any dead wood will slowly rot away but in bonsai we often don't want that to happen so use wood preservative to slow the process. Lime sulfur has already been mentioned and is very effective. Looks like about half the trunk is dead at ground level and a few of the roots. Can't see how far up the trunk that dead section extends.
If you want the dead section to stay intact you definitely need to treat the dead wood.
Dead wood on bonsai can be accidental or done on purpose. Any dead wood will slowly rot away but in bonsai we often don't want that to happen so use wood preservative to slow the process. Lime sulfur has already been mentioned and is very effective. Looks like about half the trunk is dead at ground level and a few of the roots. Can't see how far up the trunk that dead section extends.
If you want the dead section to stay intact you definitely need to treat the dead wood.
Japonicus
Imperial Masterpiece
Wait for Spring. In LA, early to mid March would probably be good, but when new growth appears.
I like late April early May where I am when the growth is plump and juicy. Then you repot.
If, the soil is not percolating well, September is a second option.
No pruning until after it recovers from repotting, if you repot.
Downwards growing foliage can be removed if you need to remove anything now.
+1 on the lime sulphur. Get a package of small cheap artists brushes, and wear
gloves and eye protection. Lime Sulphur can splatter on the skin and you stink
a day or two with discolored skin. Keep away from foliage. Do it outdoors. Rinse out brush when done.
Edit. BTW I would go ahead and make Shari of the rotted area using carving tools
followed by the lime sulphur.
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Deleted member 49943
Guest
No, junipers belong outside. It can handle the heat, providing that it is watered appropriately.
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Deleted member 49943
Guest
So the browning is likely from the rotting wood or something else. It was pruned when I got it in the middle of the summer.
Paradox
Marine Bonsologist
The color does not look good.
Should be watered every day at a minimum, probably more than once a day in the heat you are having down there
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Deleted member 49943
Guest
Was letting it dry out completely in between waterings to stop root and trunk rot. So water more often then that you think.
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Deleted member 49943
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Paradox
Marine Bonsologist
Good it's still hanging in there but I agree, it's going to need time to recover
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